Preparing early to fight diseases, pests, et. al.

mensplace · December 19, 2009

I feel that I have now added to the top of my soil everything that I could find based upon my reading here to enhance and enrich the soil AND support life in the foodweb. This should be an interesting year with all of the various rock/mineral dusts, kelp, fish, natural fertilizers, diatomaceous earth, innoculants with microorganisms, compost, manure, chiten. The soil is far too wet to work for many months, but at least the rest should be washing into the soil prior to later tilling into the clay with a liberal inclusion of compost.

NOW...How best to address the many forms of virus, blight, and micro-pests?

I have considered experimenting with grafting a few and know that there are many resistant varieties, but other than the one that is so popular and expensive, what are THE most resistant cultivars out there. From my studies it would seem that even Celebrity has been surpassed by others today.

Otherwise, what steps would be a significant contributor towards a resistance program? I am trying to stay away from poisons or other sprays that would negatively impact soil life. Are there soil sprays that would proactively assist here? I already have neem oil. Other additives to be tilled in? Is the idea of creating a buffer zone around the tomatoes even valid?

I have studied the microbiologicals with a host of other life forms to be added to the soils to fight pests and disease, but it was pointed out that viruses, blights, wilts, et. al. come from the air and other insects that visit.

In short, beyond selecting resistant varieties, enhancing their health and the food web in the soil, what specific steps, procedures, practices amendments, sprays can be added now and later to develop a "shields up" against the critters that would dare to attempt entry?

b54red · December 21, 2009

I just use mulch to keep soil born organisms from splashing up on the foliage and also trim off the lowest stems so they don't come in contact with the soil.
Since you mentioned the soggy conditions which most in the southeast are dealing with, you might want to try adding some water absorbing crystals to help regulate your soil moisture. I can usually work my beds within a day of a heavy rain with a shovel and can usually till within 2 or 3 days. Besides helping with dry conditions they are very helpful in wet times by pulling some of that excess moisture out of the soil and reducing the compaction caused by heavy rains. I get mine from- http://www.water-keep.com/shop/

December 19, 2009	#1
mensplace Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: USA Posts: 1,013	Preparing early to fight diseases, pests, et. al. I feel that I have now added to the top of my soil everything that I could find based upon my reading here to enhance and enrich the soil AND support life in the foodweb. This should be an interesting year with all of the various rock/mineral dusts, kelp, fish, natural fertilizers, diatomaceous earth, innoculants with microorganisms, compost, manure, chiten. The soil is far too wet to work for many months, but at least the rest should be washing into the soil prior to later tilling into the clay with a liberal inclusion of compost. NOW...How best to address the many forms of virus, blight, and micro-pests? I have considered experimenting with grafting a few and know that there are many resistant varieties, but other than the one that is so popular and expensive, what are THE most resistant cultivars out there. From my studies it would seem that even Celebrity has been surpassed by others today. Otherwise, what steps would be a significant contributor towards a resistance program? I am trying to stay away from poisons or other sprays that would negatively impact soil life. Are there soil sprays that would proactively assist here? I already have neem oil. Other additives to be tilled in? Is the idea of creating a buffer zone around the tomatoes even valid? I have studied the microbiologicals with a host of other life forms to be added to the soils to fight pests and disease, but it was pointed out that viruses, blights, wilts, et. al. come from the air and other insects that visit. In short, beyond selecting resistant varieties, enhancing their health and the food web in the soil, what specific steps, procedures, practices amendments, sprays can be added now and later to develop a "shields up" against the critters that would dare to attempt entry?

December 21, 2009	#2
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I just use mulch to keep soil born organisms from splashing up on the foliage and also trim off the lowest stems so they don't come in contact with the soil. Since you mentioned the soggy conditions which most in the southeast are dealing with, you might want to try adding some water absorbing crystals to help regulate your soil moisture. I can usually work my beds within a day of a heavy rain with a shovel and can usually till within 2 or 3 days. Besides helping with dry conditions they are very helpful in wet times by pulling some of that excess moisture out of the soil and reducing the compaction caused by heavy rains. I get mine from- http://www.water-keep.com/shop/