General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 31
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I finished my first one today and followed the directions with one exception. I used the heavy duty Gamos wire round baskets but the pair I used had three legs instead of the four shown in the instructions. Will these be sturdy enough to hold without bending?
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Saber,
Sure, the 3 leg ones will work - - but may not be sturdy enough when adding the (optional) cage extension, and the plant loads up with fruit. If you are planning on growing smaller to mid-size varieties - no worries!! Raybo ![]() |
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 31
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Thanks for your reply Raybo. If I do not add the optional second set of cages and stick to a single set of 54", can I grow any of the following varieties without fear?
Aussie Box Car Willie Kellog's Breakfast Mexico German Head Red Brandywine Druzba Eva's Purple Ball |
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Saber,
Here was my Druzba on the far left: ![]() Kellogs and Brandywine will also grow to this height. You will definitely need cage extensions - - or do a lot of heavy pruning. ![]() Raybo |
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Box Car Willie and Mexico get big, too.
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#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Saber,
In further thinking through the mechanics (and reflecting on younger days building with my Erector Set), I think you will be fine adding cage extensions. With the wire rope clip holding the 2 base cages together at hoopset #3, you will still have a pretty rugged structure now comprised of 6 supporting legs, vs. the 8 legs in the original design. You may get some twisting in heavy winds, but if you are not in a high wind zone you should be fine. I would rather see you fully grow out the plants toward the sky, than cut them back at the height of the base cage. ![]() Keep us posted on how they do. Raybo |
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 31
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Thanks for your additional post. Those are some nice looking plants in your picture.
I did also have another question for you. In your instructions, you recommend Perlite in the soil mix. Is this better, same or no difference to Vermiculite? I've heard Perlite has the tendency to rise in the container when watered and I was wondering if you think Perlite has an advantage. |
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#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Vermiculite soaks up water, compresses more, and breaks
down to fine particles. In texture, air space maintenance, water holding capacity, and longevity, it is more like an organic material in the container mix than perlite, which acts more like a very light form of rock. Alternatives would be pumice, lava sand, rice hulls, etc. (Rice hulls do not last as long as perlite or some kind of rock, but they do not decay quickly.) A lot of recipes for making your own container mix recommend coarse builder's sand as an ingredient. Most of what I have seen bagged is not as large as the particles in a bag of perlite from a garden center or nursery.
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#9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 31
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Thank you. Perlite it is.
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#10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 581
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A lot of the pelite will in fact float to the surface, as it is lighter than water. In it's vertical motion it will leave little air pockets behind. These help the soil by creating spaces for air and water to get trapped. Plants thrive when the soil has ample pockets for air and water to remain.
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