Best source for containers for seedlings? - Page 2

amideutch · February 9, 2010

I've been using CowPots the last couple years and last year tried the DotPots as well and was very happy with them. I will be using DotPots exclusively this year. And yes, the absence of transplant shock has been my primary motivator in using these type of pots. Ami

Mjdtexan · February 9, 2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by amideutch

I've been using CowPots the last couple years and last year tried the DotPots as well and was very happy with them. I will be using DotPots exclusively this year. And yes, the absence of transplant shock has been my primary motivator in using these type of pots. Ami

Where are you buying DotPots at? Are starting your seeds in DotPots?

JulieTA · February 9, 2010

I ordered my Dot Pots from Johnny's Seeds--look under organic supplies. I ordered the large quantity (actually two cases of them), so my per pot cost was 7.7 cents.

I start all of my seeds in 128-cell trays, then transplant into Dot Pots. I'm gearing up to start the first round of transplanting tomorrow...about 3000 seedlings, with more to come. Yikes!

Hope that helps!

Mjdtexan · February 9, 2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by JulieTA

I ordered my Dot Pots from Johnny's Seeds--look under organic supplies. I ordered the large quantity (actually two cases of them), so my per pot cost was 7.7 cents.

I start all of my seeds in 128-cell trays, then transplant into Dot Pots. I'm gearing up to start the first round of transplanting tomorrow...about 3000 seedlings, with more to come. Yikes!

Hope that helps!

It did, thank you. That is what I was after was the final cost of them. Thank You.

Mike D.

Yeager31 · February 10, 2010

Do the DotPots break down better than the straight peat pots? The reason I ask is that the peat pots I planted last year didn't seem to break down and were inhibiting the plants. Ended up digging them up, tearing away the pots, and replanting. Thanks, Anthony

Blueaussi · February 10, 2010

I have always broken up my peat pots before planting, and pulled the net off any peat pellets. They do not decompose rapidly. On the other hoof, I tried some cow pots last year, and they decomposed very nicely. I wish the cow pots weren't so expensive.

JulieTA · February 10, 2010

I also wish the cowpots weren't so pricey...I'd love to use them for my biz, but I just can't afford them.

Dot pots break down really well for me--but I also rarely have problems with peat pots.

isaacmaya · February 16, 2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by huntoften

After much research, I ended up staying with the 10 oz, Solo opaque cups. I drill a 3/8" hole in them and label with a sharpie...they take up more room than the square ones, but at 3 cents each, I saved some $$

Bought a 4cubic foot bag of Perlite and one of Vermiculite and a 3.8 cubic foot of Pro-Mix this weekend. All I need now is a truck load of compost and the month of February to fly by and I'm ready to get my hands dirty!

Huntoften,
Could you tell me where you purchase Promix, I just moved here from Dallas and haven't seen it at the local Smithville stores or

HD or Loews

huntoften · February 16, 2010

I bought it at Soil Service on Troost
816-333-3232is their number. It's a bit of a drive from Smithville, but they have what you need. They also sell perlite and vermiculite in the 4cu ft. bundles if you make your own potting mix like I do. Very good people to work with.

tnpeppers · April 23, 2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by amideutch

I've been using CowPots the last couple years and last year tried the DotPots as well and was very happy with them. I will be using DotPots exclusively this year. And yes, the absence of transplant shock has been my primary motivator in using these type of pots. Ami

Same here...using Dot Pots for 'potting up' tomatoes and peppers as well...so far, so good. Just be careful with watering...I am going to try them to give myself a 'head start' with cukes, melons, and squash...

RinTinTin · August 27, 2010

Or, if you have spare time in the winter, you could build your own for a couple cents per thousand:

Take those Solo/Dixie cups you use, fill one (or more, depending on how many people are involved in the project) with plaster of paris. When it sets up thoroughly, remove the plaster plug, and use it as a mold to make newspaperpots. Many people making newspaper pots say they stick together just fine, but I have usually mixed a thin 'wallpaper paste' (1C sugar, 1C flour, and about a gallon or more of water) to act as an all natural glue. I make mine with enough newspaper to barely cover the bottom. When transplanting time comes, I peel off the bottom, tearing up the side a little (to encourage the roots to grow down) and stick 'em in the ground. Simple, cheap. and environmental.

wordwiz · November 7, 2010

Just wondering if anyone has tried the Smithers-Oasis Wedge trays? Like Julie, I will be starting well over 3,000 seedlings and room is a concern.

About three weeks ago, I sowed some toms in Park Seed's Bio-dome inserts after placing them in a Speedling tray. The things work great - the plants are only about an inch tall but already have two sets of leaves. If the Wedges work as well, they will be a lot less expensive - $70 + shipping for over 4,000 cells.

I did find a place that sells one tray at a time so I figure I can run a test grow to see how they work.

Mike

JackE · December 20, 2010

We don't sell seedlings - just produce them for our own use. Mostly just tomatoes and peppers.

We use Jiffy round 2X2 peat pots - very reasonable in a case of 4000. We also get plastic trays from Jiffy, exactly the right size to accommodate 50 2"X2" pots. The trays have no drain holes, which allows the pots to sit in about 1/2" of water all the time, which prevents dry-out problems.

We germinate the seed in a heated room, transplant the seedlings at cotlyedon stage into the peat pots and move them to the greenhouse where the thermostat is set at 45 degrees. In nice weather we put them out in full sun. We fertilize our seedlings regularly with 20-10-20 and use Mircale-Gro potting mix - which has a lot of irritating sticks in it, but still the best we've found.

When we transplant, at about six weeks, we tear the bottoms out of the peat pots to let the roots out.

For many years, we used Prop-A-Matic 40 cell trays with the reservoir/osmosis water system, but the peat pots work better. Last year was our first and we are pleased with them. But they did not work for collards - they didn't decompose in the cooler soil and the collard plants got root-bound. We lost a 1000 plant crop. For toms and peppers though, it's the only way to go.

Jack

February 9, 2010	#16
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	I've been using CowPots the last couple years and last year tried the DotPots as well and was very happy with them. I will be using DotPots exclusively this year. And yes, the absence of transplant shock has been my primary motivator in using these type of pots. Ami __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

February 16, 2010	#24
huntoften Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kansas CIty Posts: 560	I bought it at Soil Service on Troost 816-333-3232is their number. It's a bit of a drive from Smithville, but they have what you need. They also sell perlite and vermiculite in the 4cu ft. bundles if you make your own potting mix like I do. Very good people to work with. __________________ Kansas City, Missouri Zone 5b/6a

February 9, 2010	#18
JulieTA Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Moore, South Carolina Posts: 35	I ordered my Dot Pots from Johnny's Seeds--look under organic supplies. I ordered the large quantity (actually two cases of them), so my per pot cost was 7.7 cents. I start all of my seeds in 128-cell trays, then transplant into Dot Pots. I'm gearing up to start the first round of transplanting tomorrow...about 3000 seedlings, with more to come. Yikes! Hope that helps!

February 10, 2010	#20
Yeager31 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: Rocky Point, NC Posts: 13	Do the DotPots break down better than the straight peat pots? The reason I ask is that the peat pots I planted last year didn't seem to break down and were inhibiting the plants. Ended up digging them up, tearing away the pots, and replanting. Thanks, Anthony

February 10, 2010	#21
Blueaussi Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Zone 8a Posts: 1,205	I have always broken up my peat pots before planting, and pulled the net off any peat pellets. They do not decompose rapidly. On the other hoof, I tried some cow pots last year, and they decomposed very nicely. I wish the cow pots weren't so expensive.

August 27, 2010	#26
RinTinTin Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Seattle Posts: 581	Or, if you have spare time in the winter, you could build your own for a couple cents per thousand: Take those Solo/Dixie cups you use, fill one (or more, depending on how many people are involved in the project) with plaster of paris. When it sets up thoroughly, remove the plaster plug, and use it as a mold to make newspaperpots. Many people making newspaper pots say they stick together just fine, but I have usually mixed a thin 'wallpaper paste' (1C sugar, 1C flour, and about a gallon or more of water) to act as an all natural glue. I make mine with enough newspaper to barely cover the bottom. When transplanting time comes, I peel off the bottom, tearing up the side a little (to encourage the roots to grow down) and stick 'em in the ground. Simple, cheap. and environmental.

November 7, 2010	#27
wordwiz Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: OH Posts: 29	Just wondering if anyone has tried the Smithers-Oasis Wedge trays? Like Julie, I will be starting well over 3,000 seedlings and room is a concern. About three weeks ago, I sowed some toms in Park Seed's Bio-dome inserts after placing them in a Speedling tray. The things work great - the plants are only about an inch tall but already have two sets of leaves. If the Wedges work as well, they will be a lot less expensive - $70 + shipping for over 4,000 cells. I did find a place that sells one tray at a time so I figure I can run a test grow to see how they work. Mike

December 20, 2010	#28
JackE Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Woodville, Texas Posts: 520	We don't sell seedlings - just produce them for our own use. Mostly just tomatoes and peppers. We use Jiffy round 2X2 peat pots - very reasonable in a case of 4000. We also get plastic trays from Jiffy, exactly the right size to accommodate 50 2"X2" pots. The trays have no drain holes, which allows the pots to sit in about 1/2" of water all the time, which prevents dry-out problems. We germinate the seed in a heated room, transplant the seedlings at cotlyedon stage into the peat pots and move them to the greenhouse where the thermostat is set at 45 degrees. In nice weather we put them out in full sun. We fertilize our seedlings regularly with 20-10-20 and use Mircale-Gro potting mix - which has a lot of irritating sticks in it, but still the best we've found. When we transplant, at about six weeks, we tear the bottoms out of the peat pots to let the roots out. For many years, we used Prop-A-Matic 40 cell trays with the reservoir/osmosis water system, but the peat pots work better. Last year was our first and we are pleased with them. But they did not work for collards - they didn't decompose in the cooler soil and the collard plants got root-bound. We lost a 1000 plant crop. For toms and peppers though, it's the only way to go. Jack