General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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#16 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: near Houston Texas, zone 8b/9a
Posts: 114
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I put 4 holes in the side of the bucket... preferrably about 3 or 4 inches up from the ground on the side of the bucket. The bit I used was about the size of the tip of my pinky finger. Do not put holes in the bottom of the bucket. No. It will decrease the life of your bucket by A LOT and it makes watering a lot harder. You want the drainage holes up at least an inch or two so it can trap some water reserve in the bottom of the bucket. If you let the plants dry out even a little you have to water for a long time to make the water actually penetrate the whole soil. Otherwise a lot of your water will just run down the sides of your bucket and out the drains. If you put the holes up a bit, it will trap some water, but it will also 'wick up' over the course of an hour or two. No, I chose not to use gravel at all. Just straight soil in my buckets. Yes, I made an irrigation system. I got a couple of soaker hoses and made two rows with my buckets... I strung the hoses over the top of the buckets and zip tied it into place. I used my Y connector to run it to a mutal waterhose....when I wanted to water I just turned one knob and viola. No problems, no worries. I am experimenting with a pvc version now too. |
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#17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuKKnZ2YE-8 As long as the plants do not dry out and they are getting what they need as far as fert, and minerals etc... then container size is not as big an issue. The guy on youtubes stuff seems to be doing ok Pretty sure he is using drip emitters that allow 1 gallon of water a day for each bucket
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#18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: near Houston Texas, zone 8b/9a
Posts: 114
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The trick is 'consistent' watering. Don't go way long times in between, because like I said, once it dries all the way out... getting water to the 'core' of the soil will be much more difficult.
You could put a gallon of water on it and it will just run right out the bottom around the edges of the bucket. The second trick, as I already mentioned... put your drain holes strategically 'up' the side of the bucket a few inches. Don't put the holes all the way at the bottom edge or especially on the bottom of the bucket. About 3 or 4 inches up is perfect. You WANT it to trap a little water and then let nature do its own work to get water to the core of the soil on its own. PS. My plants right now are WAY bigger than those in the youtube video. I mean A LOT bigger. Almost the same bushiness but mine are 7 or 8 feet tall. If you make it easy to water then you will do it regularly. Like I said... one knob and watch tv for 45 minutes or so and then turn it off...done. |
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#19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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His watering system is a slow drip system so that means he is probably just replacing the water pretty much as it evaporates. so the soil never drys out or runs out the bucket. I want pics from you come July or August (joking) but the temps and lack of humidity where he is at are different than controlled greenhouse or hoop house conditions . Just saying location and temps and humidity etc.. play a factor
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#20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: near Houston Texas, zone 8b/9a
Posts: 114
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I am not disputing anything at all. I just saw the one clip and thats it. He looked to me like he was doing fine and had some great young plants. No 'disagreement' on that to be had, at least not by me.
And absolutely, growing conditions matter A LOT. There is no single one 'right' way to do just about anything...everyone has their own preferences, techniques, and tricks depending on where they live and what they need. I only mentioned the size of my plants to demonstrate that it IS possible to grow full size plants in containers. Thats it. |
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#21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fulton, NY
Posts: 19
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I grew indeterminate tomatoes in 5 gallon swc last year. They got quite large 7-10 foot tall. I strapped the buckets together and then to the fence. Not one fell. I harvested 2+ pound Belgium Giant Tomatoes.
This year I am planning on building a 5 gallon swc arbor out of pvc and a dripping irrigation system. Between the buckets I am going to place 1.5'X1.5' X1' planters to grow marigolds in between the buckets for stabilization and to just to make it prettier. I am planning using 10 or buckets on each side of the structure and placing the PVC stakes in on the opposite side of the watering pipe and use cross braces on the sides and tie the tomatoes up the poles and up and over the top connecting piece. I thought this would a great conversational piece for when you enter the yard...to walk through an arbor of tomato plants. :-) As soon as the weather breaks I will post some pictures of it. Right now I have over 6 feet of snow in the side yard so no building right now...lol. Still working on the design but I cannot wait to see how it turns out. |
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#22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 229
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I used 2 homemade 5G SWC last year (in addition to Gardener's Supply kits, Earthboxes, etc.). One did blow over. Since it was already late in the season, I surrounded the buckets with cinder blocks to keep them upright. I'm trying to figure out a better overall system for next summer.
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