General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 281
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A couple years ago I built an Earthtainer using Raybo's plans and had such great success with it over the past two seasons that late last Summer I decided to build a miniature version and try to grow cherry tomatoes indoors this Winter.
I bought a packet of Tiny TIm tomatoes but had trouble getting the seeds to germinate so the experiment had a late start. Finally around Thanksgiving I had a seedling big enough to transplant. All seemed to be going well until last week. The plant got to about 13" tall and had a lot of flowers and a few small tomatoes on it, but then the bottom leaves started to wilt, and now the whole plant is wilting. When I touch the leaves they feel wet. I took the plastic off the top and the potting mix around the plant is soaking wet. I assume the poor tomato plant is drowning and I don't expect it to survive. I assume I made the wicking basket too big for the size of the container. The container measures 13"L x 7"W x 6"D. The aeration bench is about 3 3/4" from the top. The wicking basket was made from a 1 3/4" outside diameter plastic vitamin bottle. I am using Miracle Grow soilless potting mix (the standard stuff, not moisture control). Is there a formula for determining the correct size of the wicking basket for a given container size or is it just guess and if I'm wrong try again? I appreciate any thoughts on this. Thank you. Irv |
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Irv,
Just my opinion, but the size of the wicking basket is secondary to your real problem. Miracle-Gro alone WILL harbor too much moisture. You need to use as a minimum, a 4:1 ratio of the Miracle-Gro and Perlite. If you REALLY want good results, follow the "Tweaks for the Experts" section in the EarthTainer III Guide for the 3:2:1 Combo Mix ingredients. Here is a picture of my indoor crop this Winter using the 3:2:1 Combo Mix: ![]() EarthTainer III Guide: http://earthtainer.tomatofest.com/pd...tion-Guide.pdf Raybo ![]() |
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SW PA
Posts: 160
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I think your overflo holes are too high.
Ed |
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 288
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Irv,
I believe the problem is the media. It must be able to allow air into the root zone. Straight potting mix that shallow won't drain to allow air in with a constantly wet wick. I have made a number of SWC window boxes with the same dimensions. Instead of wicking baskets of potting mix, I use braided rope as wicks for these small SWC's. I use bark fines with some perlite and potting mix as the media. Try Raybo's 3:1:1 or the the 5:1:1 from the other website. Also, make sure that air can get under your plastic top. I do not use plastic on top of these small containers. My aeration bench is only about 2 inches from the bottom. I also "recycled" old corplast election signs from the losing candidates to make the aeration bench. They were free for the taking on Wednesday! ![]() Rick |
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Landers, CA
Posts: 191
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hi irv,
in my minitainers (10X14) the top ten gallon tote is rubermaid and is the growing chamber the bottom 14 gallon rubermaid is the reservoir,i use a 6x6x6 grodan block for wicking i cut the top of the block 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 by 3/4 inch deep so the 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 top of the block protruds into the growing chamber the growing chamber is supported by the 1 1/4 inch ledge on the four sides of the block. media is more important than the wicking size,i have very good results useing a 50/50 mix of # 4 grade perlite and sphagnum peat moss i have tried 3:1: and 5:1:1 and my results are the best with my 50/50/ mix. i would try many mixes if i where you to see what works best for you in your growing area,good luck and regards. les |
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#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 281
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Thank you all for your replies. I'm going to get a bag of bark fines this weekend and try again. I have another seedling that's about 3-4 weeks away from transplant.
Eddie46, the overflow holes are about 1" below the aeration bench, but I only drilled two 3/8" holes. Do you think that's a good enough space and hole size? The container is frosted plastic so when I took a close look to measure the overflow holes I saw lots of roots that run along the sides of the container and down into the water. Could the roots be wicking additional water into the mix? I think I will also put down a layer of landscape fabric on the aeration bench and up the sides of the container. I'm wondering if the size of the container is too small for tomatoes, even the compact varieties. Thanks, Irv |
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lancaster, California
Posts: 233
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#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SW PA
Posts: 160
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Irv,
I'm stumped. I used Miracle grow for years with no problems. My drain holes are half inch below mix base. I use 5gal buckest for planters and 3" wicking pot. Ed |
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#9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Since you can see into it, could you tip it over on its side in a
sink and let all of the water drain out, and then see if the plant recovers?
__________________
-- alias |
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#10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 281
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Freelancer,
I bought some Home Depot buckets a couple weeks ago with the intent to turn them into SWCs. They're going to be used outside this Summer. Dice, I don't know if I need to empty the reservoir just yet. Since I took the plastic off the top the potting mix feels like it's drying out. Thanks, Irv |
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