A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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January 9, 2013 | #1 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 200
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On the now-bad side, I didn't do anything to work it in. I was told that the worms would do that for me. They didn't. There were worms there, but evidently, they are the kind that prefer red clay to compost as I rarely saw them near the surface. As for carrots, I grew those for the first time last year. I made a new bed, dug down about two feet and filled with compost (not enough, evidently, but that's another story). The carrots did OK in that, but the stray seeds that ended up on the red stuff actually did better! Now that I've reworked that bed so that the level is higher than the surroundings, maybe they'll do better. Garlic, on the other hand, didn't like the red stuff at all. Same for onions. I think the bathtub will do find as long as my "good soil" level is higher than the surroundings. It may fill with water, but the stuff on top at root level can stay dry. That's my ingenious thinking anyway. Either way, tilling has worked well for me. Maybe turning with a pitchfork will do the same, or better, but it's just not the same workout as fighting the Mantis that just hit a rock and wants to do a jumpy dance. It's like my personal rodeo. As for the worms, I have an endless supply of rabbit poo about five miles away that I can get a yard at a time. So, I have worms, they are just outsourced to my compost pile. Last edited by ArcherB; January 9, 2013 at 01:07 AM. |
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January 9, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Huntsville AL
Posts: 91
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Ok, a little about the worms...
Folks, I've been gardening for 25 years, and only now am I getting into the Vegetables. I've grown Bonsai, flowers, hot peppers, herbs, and water plants all along but never had the chance for food plants as I never had enough sun until now.
I've been sheet mulching for around 3 1/2 years now, and think it's brilliant. In the 80's, after reading about what I think was square foot gardening, I had the idea of putting out the compost instead of buying potting soil but it was an awful lot of work with a rake. I know what I'm doing with compost now. I also raise Eisenia Fetida and E. Hortensis for castings. THESE ARE NOT GARDEN WORMS! These worms are as different from the earthworms you find stirring your soil as you are from a marmoset or spider monkey. We may eat the same foods, but we don't live the same way. Eisenia are Epigeous or litter worms. That means they live in the top 4 inches of their ecology, or the litter deposited on the surface. E. Fetida is famous for colonizing manure piles after they've cooled, and are economically valuable for their voracious habits. Most of the worms we are familiar with are actually invasive species that came over in the dung piles and flower pots when the Europeans came to the western hemisphere. In some cases the natural diversity of forest is being threatened by these species. The garden worm everyone is most familiar with is Lumbricus. I can't really say which ones, but probably the garden worm, Lumbricus rubellus, and Lumbricus terrestris the Nightcrawler. These worms live in burrows up to 9 feet down, churning soil and building channels they pump air through by crawling. Putting the "Red Wigglers," probably Eisenia Hortensis, that you buy down at the bait store will NOT work in any garden soil, unless there it's mostly organic material, because their habitat is litter rather than earth. Since annelids are primarily omnivores, eating the stuff that grows on the organic matter as well as the matter, when the nutritive content drops the worms will either move out or die as a result. Earthworms are what you will need to loosen the mineral content of the systems being described here. In nature the burrows are somewhat spread, but with enough foodstuffs the populations increase, burrows being much closer. |
January 30, 2013 | #3 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
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thank you for this. |
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February 10, 2013 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Huntsville AL
Posts: 91
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January 9, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,818
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ArcherB,
If you had success with carrots, you might look into tillage radish as a cover crop to break up your clay. Some growers are now cover cropping tillage radish and turnips together to get maximum air space in hard soils. Capt Chkn, thank you for the explaination on litter worms vs. earth worms. I am going to be giving a talk on composting later this winter and that will be a good info to pass along to the class.
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Barbee |
January 10, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 346
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ArcherB...I think that before no till becomes successful is only after the virgin soil is broken up especially in red clay and gumbo types. To paraphrase Worth 'Once the garden is in place and the weeds gone I see no reason to till. Heavy mulch for weeds and no tilling is the best way to go.' Personally I first used a spade fork and tiller to ammend the soil initially both when I lived in Texas gumbo and Georgia red clay soils. But after the initial work I just kept adding wheat straw and chopped leaves year after year especially in the fall and after 3 years it started to be the type soil we all want. Loose and crumbly with worms. But it takes time. Nature doesn't work fast, patience grasshopper.
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Ken |
January 30, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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I found a great webinar on YouTube on improving conventional no-till farming with many of the principles developed in organic permaculture. This isn't 100% organic and it is geared towards farmers instead of gardeners. But they do such a good job explaining in detail what is actually happening in the soil, and with the plants, I think any gardener, conventional or organic, could apply the principles and understand better how to achieve their goals.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjI2zWf4uMI
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
September 6, 2018 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bixby
Posts: 3
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RedBaron,
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September 6, 2018 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bixby
Posts: 3
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RedBaron,
Were you successful in scaling up your gardening techniques? |
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