Discussion forum for the various methods and structures used for getting an early start on your growing season, extending it for several weeks or even year 'round.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NorthWest
Posts: 267
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My husband and I have recently decided to buy a greenhouse for early starts and extending the growing season. We have narrowed our choice down to a Rion (EcoGrow: 6.5' x10') or Juliana (Basic 600: 6 x 9) greenhouse. We are leaning more towards the Rion for the extra length and 6mm polycarbonate walls.
We've been doing tons of searches on the web and I am still stuck on a question. Is there a "BIG" difference between 4mm dual polycarbonate and 6mm dual polycarbonate? Also, any comments from owners of either of the two greenhouses would be really great too! Thank you so much for any help/info. Lorri D ![]() |
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I'm just guessing, but I think in a structure that small, it's not going to matter very much. Big snows are the hardest on a structure. Stronger is always nicer, but make sure you invest in substantial anchoring to the ground. That is how hobby greenhouses tend to blow away. I don't know about your model, but often the company will tell you in the fine print that you should anchor it well to the ground, and they usually don't include the parts so people don't do it.
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ithaca, NY - USDA 5b
Posts: 241
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Since you're from Oregon, I'd lean toward the doublewall 6mm polycarbonate material rather than the 4mm. Not sure where in Oregon you are, but 6mm is much stronger for snow, and the 6mm (1/4") has a higher insulation property. Polycarbonate in general has a much higher IR transmission than glass, so I'd definitely invest in a auto opener for the roof vent panel. Polycarbonate has a 75% to 80% transmission in the visible spectrum but unlike glass, it has a 96-98% transmission in the IR wavelengths (heat) http://imageshack.us/a/img831/6562/polycarbt.jpg . I'll second the advice on staking it down or your neighbor will have a new greenhouse. My friend fastened to a 2x4 base, then secured the 2x4's by screwing them to stakes.
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,498
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http://greenhousesandsunrooms.com/po...specifications Some interesting notes on yellowing,hail and dew accumilation.Seems like triple walls and higher mm's fare better.Neighbor here has one and his panes turned yellow and hazy fast due to our intense sun.
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KURT |
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NorthWest
Posts: 267
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Thank you for your replies. I do plan on anchoring it. Hehehe, just last night, we had a storm blow in with 40 mph winds. Kinda unusual for this time of year. Lorri D
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#6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Medbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,881
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Richard |
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ithaca, NY - USDA 5b
Posts: 241
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There are three great books on Greenhouses for free download .... http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=25627 .
I built my greenhouse out of insulated (non-tinted) patio sliding doors. You can actually remove the insulated glass panels from the frame and install them on a roof. I bought a bunch of the 6-foot patio doors with frames for $25/set on Craigslist http://imageshack.us/a/img832/9378/westwall.jpg . We have Freecycle here in the US, where you can get stuff for free. |
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#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Medbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,881
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Wow they are a good size and for only 25 bucks,good score.
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Richard |
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#9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern Virginia
Posts: 342
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Can you post some pictures of that greenhouse Hotwired? Sounds like something I have been thinking about.
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