Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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May 4, 2014 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 118
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How do you plant through black plastic?
In past years when we only had 2 dozen or so tomato plants I would take a utility knife, cut a circle in the black plastic where each plant would go, then take a trowel and dig and cover back up by hand. This year, planting 300+ plants, I'd like to find a way that is a little quicker and more efficient, maybe some sort of tool that can cut/punch through the plastic and make the size hole I need to then just stuff the plant in there and go to the next?
Any ideas? |
May 4, 2014 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: WI, USA Zone4
Posts: 1,887
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Some people cut an X and pull back the flaps to plant.
Last edited by dustdevil; May 5, 2014 at 01:52 AM. |
May 4, 2014 | #3 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 118
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May 4, 2014 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 278
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why not just cut a slot then take a spade jab in the earth and tip it forward and plant in the crack you just made , water and move on
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May 4, 2014 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Czech republic
Posts: 2,541
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Vladimír |
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May 4, 2014 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I turn the drip line on until I can feel the wet spots through the plastic. Then the plants' root balls will squish down easily into the mud. I have not found any tool that is easier than doing it by hand. Tools only work in fairly dry dirt, and the plants need to be watered quickly anyway.
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May 4, 2014 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 118
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May 4, 2014 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,001
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How do you plant through black plastic?
I'm planning on using plastic mulch with lots of tomatoes and other things this year as well, so I am very interested in all ideas that come up. I have used a bulb planter to make my holes before, the kind that's about the length of a garden fork or short handled shovel, so I can stand up and go down the row making holes, then go back and put in the transplants. I was hoping I would perhaps just sharpen the bulb planter and proceed as usual.
There are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in your philosophy.
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"Red meat is NOT bad for you. Now blue-green meat, THAT'S bad for you!" -- Tommy Smothers Last edited by FarmerShawn; May 4, 2014 at 12:34 PM. |
May 4, 2014 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I have found that it is important to get the drip line in the exact center of the ridge and keep it in a straight line, so that I always know where it is and don't jab it with a tool. Even with a dull tool that won't cut the line, it still catches and pulls it, which is a pain.
I want to try planting beans through the plastic this year. I'm thinking I can just jab a pvc pipe through and then drop the seed. I will plant in dry dirt so it won't clog the pipe, then turn the drip line on afterward. The hard part about standardizing techniques is that, like with gardening in general, everyone has different soil. One tool might be great for someone, but clog up and be worthless for someone else, because their soil is heavier. |
May 4, 2014 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Merced, CA
Posts: 832
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Hi,
I read somewhere in regard to silver plastic mulch, that in large fields they quickly made holes in the mulch for planting using a propane blow torch! (The comment gave me the idea of using a fine-tipped soldering iron to randomly poke drainage/breathability holes in the silver plastic mulch I'm using). I'll see if I can find the link to the article later. However, I don't know if this would work on the type of black plastic mulch you're using. If you're thinking about trying it, test a small piece first to make sure you don't end up starting a horrible fire or end up being overcome by fumes or something. If you have a soil tamper thing (unlikely, but who knows??), you could burn your hole, then set the soil tamper on top to make sure any lingering burn is smothered out while you move on to burn out the next hole - and repeat going "down the line." For actual planting, I've found that a regular bulb planter (like a slightly tapered open-at-both-ends "can" with a D-handle) twisted into properly damp soil will remove a plug of soil almost the exact size and shape of a 16-20 oz. solo-type cup that many of us use for seedlings. The properly moist soil plug will remain in the bulb planter while you dump the transplant out of the solo cup and plop it into your planting hole. Then you can shake or push out the soil from the bulb planter to finish up the job. BTW, for my own garden with less than 75 plants that I plant out over time, I just use scissors or a utility knife to cut an X in the silver plastic mulch. Anne |
May 4, 2014 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 278
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a spud bar should work also , there is a lot of good tips posted
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May 4, 2014 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: korce, albania
Posts: 20
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i use a plastic mulch who is very thin (0.03 mm) and it can be punched with the finger! But for the kind of mulch plastic you are usig maybe the tool Anne said before who work with propane is the right one to do the job very quickly
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May 4, 2014 | #13 | |||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 118
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May 4, 2014 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 118
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Alright, my mind has just slightly been blown at the possibilities of what I just saw - a 2.75" inch diameter bulb planting auger drill bit with a 28" long shank so you can use it while standing up. As I mentioned above, I've never used a bulb planter of any kind, so I had no idea there was an auger drill bit for this kind of purpose. I have used an auger before, but for fence posts, not for planting plants! Anyone see any reason why this wouldn't work for my intended purpose? The plants I'm planting are being grown from seed right now by an Amish guy (I took the seed to him back in early March) who lives nearby, and I think he's doing them in 48-cell flats, so those soil plus should be somewhere in the 2-3" diameter range, I'm thinking....?
Here is the specific auger I'm talking about. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...F65DYE0TMSYQ4Q |
May 4, 2014 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Merced, CA
Posts: 832
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Hi,
The problem I can envision with the power auger is that the bit would likely "grab" the plastic material and just spin it around the bit and rip up your plastic, I've had this happen with regular drill bits on thin plastic sheeting, mulch, etc. - which is why I use the soldering iron rather than a drill bit to poke drain holes through multiple layers of plastic mulch. Anne |
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