Sorce for Calcium wanted. - Page 2

**carolyn137** · May 8, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle Dunkel

Like others here if PH is ok I would use gypsum to raise calcium. If ph needed raised I would use lime to raise ph and calcium. ***Deleted to match edit made by moderator***
Tim

Tim, obviously Mischka has not had time to consider this issue of developing a comprehensive policy on this whole site as regards the involvement of money. And until such a decision is made, please do not advertise and encourage folks to buy your own product as to ANY costs involved.

Thanks in advance for understanding and complying,

Carolyn

**carolyn137** · May 9, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by carolyn137

Tim, obviously Mischka has not had time to consider this issue of developing a comprehensive policy on this whole site as regards the involvement of money. And until such a decision is made, please do not advertise and encourage folks to buy your own product as to ANY costs involved.

Thanks in advance for understanding and complying,

Carolyn

Uncle Dunkel, you now know that Mischka has made a decision and communicated that to you via PM from the TOS( terms of service), already here at TV, and he would know far better than me where it was in that long list of TOS.

If you persist, I think you know what comes next.

Carolyn

HydroExplorer · May 15, 2014

Thx for the tip to add vinegar to egg shells to keep pH down. I have used egg shells in the past and ended up with a high pH.

I use gypsum as a calcium and sulfur amendment like some others mentioned. Whenever I do a project on the house involving drywall I will break the scrap drywall into smaller chunks and then pulverize it. I've found that it pulverizes really easily if you soak it first.

I only do this with drywall scraps after a job is done to keep the scraps out of a landfill. Agricultural gypsum is probably cheaper than drywall, but scraps are just trash.

Stvrob · May 15, 2014

I work with a drilling contractor and I've stockpiled a large amount if limestone cuttings and rock phosphate. They are relatively course (1/8" to 3/8" size) so it breaks down slowly.

**carolyn137** · May 15, 2014

Here's a couple of links that some of you might find interesting and helpful, with some views from others.

The first is about sheetrock'

http://idigmygarden.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63212

And the second one is about rock dust:

http://idigmygarden.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62430

Carolyn

Uncle Dunkel · May 16, 2014

Best advice would be to have a soil test and see what your soil is lacking. If you need calcium and you also need to raise your PH then add lime. If PH is ok and you need to add Gypum to raise you calcium. Sometimes nutrients get locked up in the soil and the plant suffers you might need to adjust this by using a foliar calcium supplement. The best ones would be in a chealted form. Adding sheetrock to your garden would cost lots more than a bag of gypsum. I really don't think you would want the bonding agents in the sheetrock on your soil either.

Tim

RayR · May 16, 2014

The thing that would concern me about using Drywall scraps is there are more things added to that sheetrock than just Gypsum.

May 15, 2014	#20
carolyn137 Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a Posts: 21,169	Here's a couple of links that some of you might find interesting and helpful, with some views from others. The first is about sheetrock' http://idigmygarden.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63212 And the second one is about rock dust: http://idigmygarden.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62430 Carolyn __________________ Carolyn

May 15, 2014	#18
HydroExplorer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 132	Thx for the tip to add vinegar to egg shells to keep pH down. I have used egg shells in the past and ended up with a high pH. I use gypsum as a calcium and sulfur amendment like some others mentioned. Whenever I do a project on the house involving drywall I will break the scrap drywall into smaller chunks and then pulverize it. I've found that it pulverizes really easily if you soak it first. I only do this with drywall scraps after a job is done to keep the scraps out of a landfill. Agricultural gypsum is probably cheaper than drywall, but scraps are just trash.

May 15, 2014	#19
Stvrob Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 1,413	I work with a drilling contractor and I've stockpiled a large amount if limestone cuttings and rock phosphate. They are relatively course (1/8" to 3/8" size) so it breaks down slowly.

May 16, 2014	#21
Uncle Dunkel Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Corbin, KY Posts: 74	Best advice would be to have a soil test and see what your soil is lacking. If you need calcium and you also need to raise your PH then add lime. If PH is ok and you need to add Gypum to raise you calcium. Sometimes nutrients get locked up in the soil and the plant suffers you might need to adjust this by using a foliar calcium supplement. The best ones would be in a chealted form. Adding sheetrock to your garden would cost lots more than a bag of gypsum. I really don't think you would want the bonding agents in the sheetrock on your soil either. Tim

May 16, 2014	#22
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,466	The thing that would concern me about using Drywall scraps is there are more things added to that sheetrock than just Gypsum.