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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old March 28, 2015   #1
chris8837
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Default Fertilizing (Epsom Salt and Alaska 5-1-1)

So I've been growing tomatoes in the 5-1-1 mix (Pine Bark). So far so good. Very lush and green and some tomatoes forming. Exciting times.

15 gallon containers and I mixed half containers local nursery tomatoes fertilizer 1 cup and 1 cup lime. The others were Kellog organic granular 1 cup and 1 cup lime.

No difference yet. Both containers doing well.

So I mixed up some Alaska 5-1-1 feet 1 tbls per gallon along with 1 tbls of Epsom salt in 2 gallon watering bucket.

Im going to follow a Friday Fertilizer day schedule.

I want to now switch the fertilizer to something with more last 2 dominant numbers instead of a 5-1-1 mix to promote flower and fruit.

In Las Vegas and have to water now every 2-3 days. Prob everyday soon.

My question is what are some good organic fertilizers to use for that? (And how much)
Should I be using the Epsom salt every week?
Should I be fertilizing every week? (Friday Fert day)


Thank you for your time and answers!!
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Old March 28, 2015   #2
chris8837
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Default Here are some pics

Let me know what you think
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Old April 10, 2015   #3
Imthechuck
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http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...ht=Urban+farms
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Old April 10, 2015   #4
TightenUp
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Looks great!

the 5-1-1 fert and 5-1-1 potting mix had me confused for a hot min.

try biobizz biobloom
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Old April 10, 2015   #5
RayR
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Isn't the Kellogg organic granular a 5-6-3 or 5-6-4,something like that?
What's the NPK of the local nursery tomatoes fertilizer you're using? Is it organic or synthetic?
If you want a liquid organic fert with a lower N ratio to replace the Alaska 5-1-1 fish emulsion, go with a fish hydrolysate or better yet a fish hydrolysate with kelp.
You may have all the P and K that they need already taking into account the content of the granular fertilizer. The Epsom salts are probably unnecessary if you have sufficient Mg and S in the other fertilizers which I bet they do.
The plants look great.
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Old April 11, 2015   #6
chris8837
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The nursery is synthetic I think. Didn't say organic on it And it's 6-10-6. The kellog is 4-6-3 and says organic.

Putting 1 cup of fertilizer and lime enough for the plants entire life cycle?

The weather here has been up and down. As low as 42 at night and high as 85 so far. I've noticed they are a deep dark green. Look really good and tomatoes forming and blossomes all over. First time growing and it seems to be going well, but I've noticed some stunted growth and cupping new growth. Normal?
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Old April 11, 2015   #7
chris8837
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Default Here's an Update (Explosion)

I side dressed with Kellog 1 Tblspoon each
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Old April 11, 2015   #8
RayR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris8837 View Post
The nursery is synthetic I think. Didn't say organic on it And it's 6-10-6. The kellog is 4-6-3 and says organic.

Putting 1 cup of fertilizer and lime enough for the plants entire life cycle?

The weather here has been up and down. As low as 42 at night and high as 85 so far. I've noticed they are a deep dark green. Look really good and tomatoes forming and blossomes all over. First time growing and it seems to be going well, but I've noticed some stunted growth and cupping new growth. Normal?
If it doesn't say organic then it probably isn't but you can always tell whether a fertilizer is organic, synthetic or a hybrid by reading the ingredients on the label.
So you are using KELLOGG GARDEN ORGANICS TOMATO, VEGETABLE & HERB FERTILIZER (4-6-3) which also contains beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae. As a general rule the percentage of Phosphorous is an organic fertilizer should be 6% or less when mycorrhizal fungi are involved because too much P can inhibit mycorrhizal association with the plant roots. Since one of the primary benefits of mycorrhizae is their ability to scavenge the soil for insoluble P, make it soluble and deliver it to the roots that is something very important in organic growing.

I assume you used dolomite lime which contains both calcium and magnesium carbonates. They are slow release forms of Ca and Mg and probably all you will need of that for the season. I also wouldn't add any more because of the risk of carbonates raising the PH of your mix too high. There are other forms of Calcium that are also in the fertilizers. Bone meal in the Kellogg is primarily calcium phosphate as an example.

The cupping of some of the leaves looks like Physiological Leaf Roll. No big deal.
Could be the big swings in temperature that might be a contributing factor.
I don't see any evidence of stunted growth from your pictures, the new growth looks fine.
If everything is looking good don't make any major changes. Don't mess with success.
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