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Old May 23, 2015   #1
Nematode
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Default Nematode's not yet epic Hydroponic thread

Hydroponic tomato pics.
How they look to you guys?
They look ok but slightly off, I'm thinking its the cold nights, been in the 40's a lot at night. Seems like they took a little while to shake off the cold last year as well.
Internode spacing seems short, leaves don't seem full size, some cupping. They don't seem quite as green as they ought to be in person, the photos make them slightly greener.

What I done wrong so far:
1)started them with weak miracle grow solution instead of a complete hydroponic solution.
2) left them too long in the starter blocks(leggy)
3) didn't pre treat the rock wool to remove the lime (that almost killed them)
4) used univ of florida hydroponic recipe which was waaay too weak for cold weather.
probably some more mistakes but haven't killed them yet.

Feed is now based upon univ Arizona generic tomato pepper cucumber formula
N 189
P 39
K 341
Mg 48
Ca 170

Pics are Kellogg's Breakfast (my favorite) and Bloody Butcher (new to me this year)
For reference the Grodan delta blocks are 4" x 4".

Nematode
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Old May 23, 2015   #2
luigiwu
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mhpgardener on youtube grows the most amazing tomatoes via dutch buckets - have you checked out his channel?
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Old May 23, 2015   #3
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Nematode, I bet hydroponics in cold temperatures is a whole other art form you are developing!

Plants look good, I know what a cold tomato plant should look like.
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Old May 23, 2015   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bower View Post
Nematode, I bet hydroponics in cold temperatures is a whole other art form you are developing!

Plants look good, I know what a cold tomato plant should look like.
funny, I have noticed I am positively allergic to doing things like everyone else

Thanks, we have a warm week coming I expect them to shape up pretty quick.

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Old May 23, 2015   #5
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Thanks for the link, Luigiwu he is doing some interesting things, like using clones to get early tomatoes.
might have to try that , haven't puzzled it out yet how it would all work. I'm not a fan of recirculating systems myself because they tend to suffer ph problems and unknown nutrient deficiencies.
Looks like he has it working though.

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Old May 24, 2015   #6
luigiwu
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I'm sorry I'm not more familiar with hydroponics but how does your system work? It thought all hydroponics involve a pump that dispense fertilized water. Does your plants basically get fertilizer water from a bottom source?
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Old May 24, 2015   #7
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I have a 55gal nutrient tank a timer and a pump.
The pump turns on for a couple minutes several times a day to pump the solution through drip emitters which regulate the flow to .5gph or about one ounce per minute. Ideally there will be 10% of the feed anount overflow from the bato bucket at each feeding.
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Old May 24, 2015   #8
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Just curious... I went to a hydroponics store yesterday and they had these tomatoes and eggplants that had the thickest stems. The tomato plant was still in a 1 inch rockwool cube and it was 8 to 10 inches tall with a stem larger than a number two pencil (probably twice as thick). I asked him why it was so thick and he said the Silica Si makes the stemwalls and cells thicker.

Do you use that? I was amazed at how good the plants looked.

Ginny
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Old May 24, 2015   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiishergurl View Post
Just curious... I went to a hydroponics store yesterday and they had these tomatoes and eggplants that had the thickest stems. The tomato plant was still in a 1 inch rockwool cube and it was 8 to 10 inches tall with a stem larger than a number two pencil (probably twice as thick). I asked him why it was so thick and he said the Silica Si makes the stemwalls and cells thicker.

Do you use that? I was amazed at how good the plants looked.

Ginny
I was going to start this year, I haven't yet. My cucumbers produce moderately but look sickly, I suspect it is lack of silicates, but that is only conjecture.
There are problems with silicates and dripper emitters they clog at high levels.
I was going to introduce silicates at a lower level and see if the plants liked it. My methods are not always controlled experiments. 20ppm SiO2 seems like a good seat of the pants place to start.
Also silicates really move the ph up, so I would have to use acid for ph down which is something I haven't yet had to do.
Thanks for the info It will encourage me to get started!

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Old May 26, 2015   #10
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Default Running on automatic

Running on automatic now, The timer is set to water them several times a day with a couple ounces, no more hand watering.
Saturday afternoon mixed up a 55 gal barrel of nutrient solution
197g yara calcinit
197g Jacks 5-12-26
66g potassium sulfate

element ppm
N 185
NH4 10
P 50
K 347
Mg 60
Ca 180
S 66

Ph 5 without adjustment ok for me

Started the automatic system and ran it for 8 minutes (8 oz per plant) to get things going
went shopping
Came back near dark and the leaves were closed up like venus flytraps!
Checked and double checked formula and it seemed ok......
Next morning all was ok.
I think the roots don't like the cold water in large doses.
Plants look good today, its been warmer.
Bloody Butcher is first to blossom, good timing the temps should be ok for fruit set. Should go get a vibrating toothbrush.......not so many bees around yet.

For some reason had a lot of Sun Gold runts, you can see a couple to the left of the eggplant, going to see if they can catch up or if they are duds, they need to speed up quick or cucumbers are going in that bucket.

Still learning.

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Last edited by Nematode; May 26, 2015 at 11:15 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old June 9, 2015   #11
Nematode
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Default looking not so great

Tired of garden looking sickly.
Beans pale and crinkly
Tomato pale tops
Melons pale and stunted

See a theme?
Pale tomato tops a giveaway of iron deficiency, in the past I have added FeDTPA which has a broader ph availability than the EDTA in the pre-mix, but this time checked ph with ph dropper test kit.

Nutrient tank ph 6. Hmm ok maybe at the high end of ok
Checked some of the drain solution, ph 7+. ok that would lock out all the iron and explain the deficiency.

Adjusted nutrient tank down to ph 5 with (100 drops/25gal) muriatic acid.
Lets see what happens over the next couple days.

Things can go bad fast in hydro, but theoretically you can fix them fast too.
if you know what you are doing.... which I dont

Added Zn because the Jack's has about half the zinc recommended for tomato.(per cornell)

Current nutrient per 55gal
*=new

198g calcinit
198g jacks 5-12-26
66g potassium sulfate
*66g sea90 yup i did it added salt 150ppm chloride
*0.5g ZN dissolvine
*HCl adjust for ph 5 approx 200 drops/55gal
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Old June 9, 2015   #12
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Default sungold is happy

sungold is happy
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Old June 9, 2015   #13
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Default time for an overall shot

Been 2 weeks time for a wide shot
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Old June 10, 2015   #14
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Have you thought of heating your nutrient solution?

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Old June 10, 2015   #15
Nematode
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I haven't. Are there benefits?
It usually is not cold, only when I first make a batch. I think the sun heats the black delivery pipe anyway.
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