Growing potatoes for Dummies?

spyfferoni · February 24, 2007

I would like to try growing potatoes but I don't have any experience, and I would need to know which varieties could handle a hot dry summer. Hopefully we won't have a heat wave like last year. If any one can point me in the right direction I would be very grateful. I am ashamed I don't know more as most of my childhood was in South Eastern Idaho. We even had spud vacation! I guess I should call my grandpa and ask him a few questions.

Thanks,
Tyffanie

**Tom Wagner** · February 24, 2007

Anytime someone says hot dry summer and potatoes it brings to mind earliness.

Unless you have rain or good watering venues, I would go with the earliest maturing types to escape the yield and quality devastations that occur with stress during the heat wave that you may yet experience again.

Earlies are potato varieties such as Cobbler and Norland. Any variety that compare with those would be a good choice. Depending on where you get your seed potatoes, you might investigate which are comparable in maturity. My experience in Kansas proved that early is a must when high heat and no rainfall hurts the late maturity classes.

Tom

spyfferoni · February 27, 2007

How often should I water potatoes under normal conditions, and hot conditions.
Thanks for the info.

Tyff

Fusion_power · February 27, 2007

Potatoes need about an inch of rainfall per week to grow at their optimum. During the extreme heat of summer, they can use 3 to 4 times that amount. That translates to watering them every second or third day during the worst of the heat.

Soil preparation is much more important with spuds. They like soil just a bit on the acid side. Good tomato soils run about 6.0 ph and they will grow pretty well down to 5.5 if the soil fertility is high.

Fusion

spyfferoni · February 28, 2007

We have alkaline soil here. I often get iron chlorosis on my raspberries and a tree I have if I don't apply iron/sulfur. What would I add to the soil to make it more acidic?

Thanks,
Tyffanie

**Tom Wagner** · March 3, 2007

Quick summary:
Soils: moist climates acidic

Soils: dry climates alkaline, or basic
Soil pH lower than 7.0 is acidic

Soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline.

Attempt #1:
Lowering the soil pH
Sulfur used to lower the pH. Mix in 1 oz to 3 oz. of rock sulfur per sq. yard depending if the soil is sandy or not.

Attempt #2/Alternates:

Sawdust, compost, wood chips, cottonseed meal, and peat moss.

Tom

spyfferoni · March 4, 2007

Thanks Mr. Wagner. I usually add peat moss to the planting holes of my tomatoes and compost. I guess I am doing the right thing. The sulfur/ iron mix I bought has nitrogen in it also. Should I buy something different for potatoes? It is called Hi-Yield Iron plus. I have access to city compost, which is made from yard waste and treated sludge. I use it once in awhile, but I am afraid to use it with root crops. What is your opinion on that?
Thanks again,

Tyffanie

February 24, 2007	#1
spyfferoni Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Utah Posts: 675	Growing potatoes for Dummies? I would like to try growing potatoes but I don't have any experience, and I would need to know which varieties could handle a hot dry summer. Hopefully we won't have a heat wave like last year. If any one can point me in the right direction I would be very grateful. I am ashamed I don't know more as most of my childhood was in South Eastern Idaho. We even had spud vacation! I guess I should call my grandpa and ask him a few questions. Thanks, Tyffanie

February 24, 2007	#2
Tom Wagner Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204 Posts: 1,157	Anytime someone says hot dry summer and potatoes it brings to mind earliness. Unless you have rain or good watering venues, I would go with the earliest maturing types to escape the yield and quality devastations that occur with stress during the heat wave that you may yet experience again. Earlies are potato varieties such as Cobbler and Norland. Any variety that compare with those would be a good choice. Depending on where you get your seed potatoes, you might investigate which are comparable in maturity. My experience in Kansas proved that early is a must when high heat and no rainfall hurts the late maturity classes. Tom

February 27, 2007	#3
spyfferoni Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Utah Posts: 675	How often should I water potatoes under normal conditions, and hot conditions. Thanks for the info. Tyff

February 27, 2007	#4
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	Potatoes need about an inch of rainfall per week to grow at their optimum. During the extreme heat of summer, they can use 3 to 4 times that amount. That translates to watering them every second or third day during the worst of the heat. Soil preparation is much more important with spuds. They like soil just a bit on the acid side. Good tomato soils run about 6.0 ph and they will grow pretty well down to 5.5 if the soil fertility is high. Fusion

February 28, 2007	#5
spyfferoni Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Utah Posts: 675	We have alkaline soil here. I often get iron chlorosis on my raspberries and a tree I have if I don't apply iron/sulfur. What would I add to the soil to make it more acidic? Thanks, Tyffanie

March 3, 2007	#6
Tom Wagner Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204 Posts: 1,157	Quick summary: Soils: moist climates acidic Soils: dry climates alkaline, or basic Soil pH lower than 7.0 is acidic Soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline. Attempt #1: Lowering the soil* pH* Sulfur used to lower the pH. Mix in 1 oz to 3 oz. of rock sulfur per sq. yard depending if the soil is sandy or not. Attempt #2/Alternates: Sawdust, compost, wood chips, cottonseed meal, and peat moss. Tom

March 4, 2007	#7
spyfferoni Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Utah Posts: 675	Thanks Mr. Wagner. I usually add peat moss to the planting holes of my tomatoes and compost. I guess I am doing the right thing. The sulfur/ iron mix I bought has nitrogen in it also. Should I buy something different for potatoes? It is called Hi-Yield Iron plus. I have access to city compost, which is made from yard waste and treated sludge. I use it once in awhile, but I am afraid to use it with root crops. What is your opinion on that? Thanks again, Tyffanie