Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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November 30, 2015 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 2,010
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You can add this to Worth's nice post explaining fertilizer components, but you will find they do calculate in the atomic weight of oxygen, so you P and K ratios are not quite what they appear to be. You also can have different N that is really a big deal when you increase strengths of your sauce
A (20-20-20) fertilizer is not equal parts N:K. P and K are calculated as P2O5 and K2O. The label factors in the atomic weight of oxygen P is 43.6% of what is labeled. P=31 O=16. P2O5 = (2 x 31) + (5 x 16) = 142. P = (2 x 31)=62. 62/142 = 43.6% P in P2O5. K is 83% of what is labeled. K=39 O=16. K2O = (2 x 39) + (16) = 94. K = (2 x 39)=78. 78/94 = 83% K in K2O. More fun to digest |
November 30, 2015 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Quote:
One thing I can say is my neighbor uses the wrong nitrogen fertilizer for his yard. He rakes his grass and leaves up and waters with city water. He sprays poison on it that kills about everything big enough to die. Urea nitrate breaks down by way of micro organisms he and the chlorine water has killed. The dividing line between his place and mine are totally different. My soil now has about one inch of nice dark soil on top. His is hard red clay. Most of the dry weather cracks in the soil stop at this boundary line. Worth |
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November 30, 2015 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,916
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Quote:
They say "avaialable" phosphate and and soluble Potash: Here is an example : MG 24-8- 16 all purpose |
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November 30, 2015 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 2,010
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I think some of you may enjoy this, there is a lot of good info. . At the end is animal manure sources listed.
http://www.spectrumanalytic.com/supp...ium_basics.htm |
November 30, 2015 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Washington State Quimper Peninsula
Posts: 38
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Good link... AKmark
Never considered my low K impacting N fixation of legume cover crops.... Cool! Worth.. Great story! |
November 30, 2015 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Many many moons ago I used to be able to buy real honest to god sheep manure from the store.
The stuff they sell now looks like it was scraped off the bottom of a wet mud hole. What is wrong? Worth. |
December 1, 2015 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,916
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In GA I used to get composted horse manure, Free. I had to load my truck, as much as I wanted, ..Come back for more If I needed more.
That was my BEST compost experience. |
December 1, 2015 | #23 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,049
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Quote:
Steve |
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December 1, 2015 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 880
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Steve, I have many maple and oak trees so I always have an abundance of leaves. I have pine trees as well and I add a small amount of shredded pine needles. I never have to be concerned about having enough brown/carbon, it is the nitrogen source I lack. Very hot and dry summers means no grass to mow. And I could never produce enough food scraps to suffice.
Maybe next year I will just have to seek out a good source of manure, lol. |
December 1, 2015 | #25 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,895
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Quote:
It seems amazing to have that much brown stuff and I know that my own compost is heavy on the nitrogen since it's mostly kitchen waste with the occasional (saved) brown leaves thrown in. It degrades just fine and I'm in no hurry to harvest it. Linda |
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December 1, 2015 | #26 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 880
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Quote:
Indeed it is amazing to have all the brown that I do, I love my trees! This summer it was so hot and dry that the leaves turned brown and began to fall early August. |
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December 1, 2015 | #27 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,049
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Quote:
http://www.planetnatural.com/composting-101/c-n-ratio/ I read somewhere that to get a chemical C:N ratio of 30:1, you need a "ball park" ratio of 1 part browns to 2 parts greens by volume. For all I know, this may be incorrect, and I'd be happy for any expert advice. It has, however, worked fine for me in my insulated composter. Steve |
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December 1, 2015 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,895
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Great link Steve. Thanks for posting!
How stupid of me to think that things are either nitrogen or carbon. No wonder my composter works well no matter what I put in it (emphasizing that there's never too much of any one item - except for the windfall apples in the fall). Everything has carbon in it, so we don't really need to stress too much about correct proportions. I probably read that way back when, and then forgot.......... Linda |
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