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Old July 19, 2015   #1
Lycopersica
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Default Blossom end blues

I'm growing opalka plum tomatoes. Although the plants have been fruiting like crazy, at least two thirds of the fruit have blossom end rot. Based on a soil test, I know my soil was very calcium deficient when I started. I mixed in compost, Dr. Earth's rock phosphate (containing calcium phosphate) and egg shells when I planted but I guess that wasn't enough.

A week or two ago, when I noticed how widespread the blossom end rot was, I added more egg shell bits and rock phosphate. Then, I mulched the bed with composted leaves and pine needles to keep the soil more evenly moist. I've been careful to water more consistently too. Nonetheless, I noticed today that the newer juvenile tomatoes are starting to get soft spots on their blossom ends.

The plants are showing early signs of over-feeding so I don't want to amend the soil any further. Should I try one of those calcium sprays or give it more time? Am I doomed to sad mushy half-tomatoes all season?
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Old July 19, 2015   #2
Salsacharley
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Here is an article with good info on plants' ability to take up calcium. It appears that there aren't any quick remedies, but balancing nutrients would be a good start. Good Luck.

http://maximumyield.com/take-a-trip-...lcium-highway/
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Old July 20, 2015   #3
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Dave says that adding eggshells will do nothing to add the calcium needed, and it's the wrong kind of calcium. That's pretty much the only help I can offer, never had a calcium problem to get further into it. Good luck!
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Old July 20, 2015   #4
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I really love Opalkas, but they are the most likely to get BER than any tomato I've tried. I don't have any quick fixes, but when they work, Opalkas are worth the trouble!
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Old July 20, 2015   #5
Lycopersica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salsacharley View Post
Here is an article with good info on plants' ability to take up calcium. It appears that there aren't any quick remedies, but balancing nutrients would be a good start. Good Luck.

http://maximumyield.com/take-a-trip-...lcium-highway/
Thanks for the great article. It's really informative about the different types of calcium. I guess quick fix foliar sprays are too good to be true after all. I'll wait a bit and then try some gypsum sparingly on a few plants.

I don't know it makes any difference, but I picked the a bunch of the larger affected fruits to ease stress and nutrient load on the plants. At least I managed to save enough pieces for a big tray of fried green tomatoes.
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Old July 20, 2015   #6
Lycopersica
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I really love Opalkas, but they are the most likely to get BER than any tomato I've tried. I don't have any quick fixes, but when they work, Opalkas are worth the trouble!
It's reassuring to know that I'm not alone in having Opalkas with BER. I was beginning to feel like a bad plant parent!
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Old August 21, 2015   #7
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The gypsum worked! Okay, it could be a coincidence but the plants really turned around after I applied it. I went from ~90% of my tomatoes getting BER by the time they got big to only a few getting it. Hooray for pointy Opalkas!
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Old August 21, 2015   #8
yardn_gardn
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Opalka are my favorite tomatoe for fresh eating and canning. They taste great in salsa and are beautiful in the jars. Blossom end rot is such a painful experience. I've much less trouble with BER
this year than last since I put in a drip irrigation system with a $25.00 timer. It might help others too.
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Old December 19, 2015   #9
Gardeneer
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BER is mostly due to soil moisture fluctuations ( drying out) than Ca deficiency. For the same reason it occurs more often in container growing.
Then of course we know that Roma/plum types are more BER prone.

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Old January 6, 2016   #10
cjp1953
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Originally Posted by Lycopersica View Post
The gypsum worked! Okay, it could be a coincidence but the plants really turned around after I applied it. I went from ~90% of my tomatoes getting BER by the time they got big to only a few getting it. Hooray for pointy Opalkas!
I added gypsum to my garden this year to help keep the soil loose,seems the worms love it.I also read that it added calcium to the soil.It's a cheap way to go.It stays in the soil a while, I would think it works better turned into your soil but have been told even left on the surface it's still effective.
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