Help with figuring soil sample please

zeroma · March 25, 2016

I do get the gist of the soil sample test but my question is:

where the test says how much N to apply for example: 2.8# per 1000 square feet - our raised bed this applies to is 281 square feet. So do I divide that out and get an answer of .75# for our number of sq ft? and of course, do the same math with the other nutrients needed.

Second question, where the tests says to apply in multi applications blah blah blah, I don't just sprinkle some prior to planting? rather use it at different stages of the tomato growth?

sorry I had to copy and paste, I don't know how to put the picture of the report in here.

Turf and Ornamental Soil Analysis Results
Analysis Result Unit Optimal
Soil pH 7.7 5.8-6.6 Very High
Buffer pH
Organic Matter 10.9 %
Phosphorus 222 m3-ppm 41-68 Very High
Potassium 135 m3-ppm 195-302 Medium
Magnesium 427 m3-ppm 260-433 Good
Calcium 4391 m3-ppm 2457-3439 Very High
CEC 18.4
K Saturation 1.6 % 2.0-4.0
Mg Saturation 17 % 10-20
Ca Saturation 81.4 % 50-70
Crop Settings - CROP LIST
Year Prev Crop Next Crop Yield Goal

Fertilizer Recommendations for #23 Tomatoes, 30 ton
Nutrient Amount Unit
Lime [CaCO3] 0.0 lbs/1000 sqft
Nitrogen 2.8 lbs/1000 sqft
Phosphorus [P2O5] 0.0 lbs/1000 sqft
Potassium [K2O] 7.7 lbs/1000 sqft
Magnesium 0.0 lbs/1000 sqft
Calcium 0.0 lbs/1000 sqft
Sulfur 15.8 lbs/1000 sqft
Comments:
Apply most of N as multiple sidedressings, beginning at appearance of first cluster and based on soil N test (PSNT) 7-10 days prior. Fall or split apply K2O If rate exceeds 300 lb. or soil K exceeds Mg . Monitor and adjust nutrients with plant analysis.[/COLOR]

and yes, our soil is alkalin

zeroma

KarenO · March 25, 2016

This is a natural and previously unamnended soil? Or a soil which has been amended already (especially with lime)?
Nitrogen is the easiest thing to add so no worries. They are just advising not to try and fix it all at once. For nitrogen, by side dressing plants rather than adding to the soil you are fertilizing plants and it is simple to add nitrogen. Blood meal for example as a granular. Plenty of commercial granular fertilizers will fit the bill as well. For future, adding manure and compost regularly will balance the soil. Lay off lime, way too much in there already hence the high calcium, phosphorus and pH.

zeroma · March 25, 2016

Thanks KarenO

We have added no lime. We have a naturally alkaline soil here in SW Ohio. This soil sample was taken from one of our raised beds that has been used for 2 years with some amendments added. Mostly compost and maybe some peat moss.

I ended up calling the lab to ask specific questions on our results. our high pH is a bummer.
And I found out that we can't add more than 5 pounds of sulfur per 1000 sq feet a year, so to add all at once isn't even an option.

For our raised bed of 281 sq ft that means we can add only 1.5 pounds this year. Thanks for your answer Karen

KarenO · March 25, 2016

7.0 is a neutral pH, (the ph of plain water) 7.7, while on the alkaline side is not that terrible and in fact some vegetables would prefer it. Beets and most cole crops for example. Tomatoes are very adaptable and I think will grow for you despite the high pH.
Adding slowly is better than trying to fix all at once. add your amendments as recommended because more is definitely not better. peat moss and compost and/or manure added in fall will help. I think you still should be able to grow good crops in your soil,
http://www.harvesttotable.com/2013/1...ph-tolerances/
KarenO

zeroma · March 26, 2016

Thanks KarenO

While some plants are forgiving of what pH is, Beets and cole family aren't as popular in our group and due to crop rotation, we need to switch the beds/plant families around.

Soil pH 7.7 is our soil in that particular bed 5.8-6.6 is optimal for growing the specific crop for that particular bed which equals "Very High" pH for growing tomatoes.

That is 100 to 200 times more base that what is ideal. and the lab states to add no more than 5# of recommended Sulfur per 1000 sq ft per year...

Their recommended sulfur to get to optimal pH is 15.8# which is quickly reduced to 4.4# for our sq footage/size bed. This is going to be a challenge over the next few years. We just need to keep adding compost and sulfur.

I wonder how the pH stays 'changed' as each year goes on and soil samples are taken and sulfur added?

zeroma

March 25, 2016	#1
zeroma Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2012 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 637	Help with figuring soil sample please I do get the gist of the soil sample test but my question is: where the test says how much N to apply for example: 2.8# per 1000 square feet - our raised bed this applies to is 281 square feet. So do I divide that out and get an answer of .75# for our number of sq ft? and of course, do the same math with the other nutrients needed. Second question, where the tests says to apply in multi applications blah blah blah, I don't just sprinkle some prior to planting? rather use it at different stages of the tomato growth? sorry I had to copy and paste, I don't know how to put the picture of the report in here. Turf and Ornamental Soil Analysis Results Analysis Result Unit Optimal Soil pH 7.7 5.8-6.6 Very High Buffer pH Organic Matter 10.9 % Phosphorus 222 m3-ppm 41-68 Very High Potassium 135 m3-ppm 195-302 Medium Magnesium 427 m3-ppm 260-433 Good Calcium 4391 m3-ppm 2457-3439 Very High CEC 18.4 K Saturation 1.6 % 2.0-4.0 Mg Saturation 17 % 10-20 Ca Saturation 81.4 % 50-70 Crop Settings - CROP LIST Year Prev Crop Next Crop Yield Goal Fertilizer Recommendations for #23 Tomatoes, 30 ton Nutrient Amount Unit Lime [CaCO3] 0.0 lbs/1000 sqft Nitrogen 2.8 lbs/1000 sqft Phosphorus [P2O5] 0.0 lbs/1000 sqft Potassium [K2O] 7.7 lbs/1000 sqft Magnesium 0.0 lbs/1000 sqft Calcium 0.0 lbs/1000 sqft Sulfur 15.8 lbs/1000 sqft Comments: Apply most of N as multiple sidedressings, beginning at appearance of first cluster and based on soil N test (PSNT) 7-10 days prior. Fall or split apply K2O If rate exceeds 300 lb. or soil K exceeds Mg . Monitor and adjust nutrients with plant analysis.[/COLOR] and yes, our soil is alkalin zeroma Last edited by zeroma; March 25, 2016 at 09:11 AM.

March 25, 2016	#2
KarenO Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 5,931	This is a natural and previously unamnended soil? Or a soil which has been amended already (especially with lime)? Nitrogen is the easiest thing to add so no worries. They are just advising not to try and fix it all at once. For nitrogen, by side dressing plants rather than adding to the soil you are fertilizing plants and it is simple to add nitrogen. Blood meal for example as a granular. Plenty of commercial granular fertilizers will fit the bill as well. For future, adding manure and compost regularly will balance the soil. Lay off lime, way too much in there already hence the high calcium, phosphorus and pH. Last edited by KarenO; March 25, 2016 at 06:37 PM.

March 26, 2016	#5
zeroma Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2012 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 637	Thanks KarenO While some plants are forgiving of what pH is, Beets and cole family aren't as popular in our group and due to crop rotation, we need to switch the beds/plant families around. Soil pH 7.7 is our soil in that particular bed 5.8-6.6 is optimal for growing the specific crop for that particular bed which equals "Very High" pH for growing tomatoes. That is 100 to 200 times more base that what is ideal. and the lab states to add no more than 5# of recommended Sulfur per 1000 sq ft per year... Their recommended sulfur to get to optimal pH is 15.8# which is quickly reduced to 4.4# for our sq footage/size bed. This is going to be a challenge over the next few years. We just need to keep adding compost and sulfur. I wonder how the pH stays 'changed' as each year goes on and soil samples are taken and sulfur added? zeroma