? about fertilizer application

[CharlieM]

Hello
My tomato plants are in a raised bed and I use black plastic film for mulch. I also cover my plants with bird netting so it is difficult to get to the base of each plant to apply my fertilizer (ammonia sulfate granules and water mixture). I have been thinking (dangerous I know) about getting some 3" PVC pipe and cut in into 1' lengths, putting a cap on one end and then drilling some 1/4" holes in the 1' section and the end caps. I would then drive the PVC pieces (end cap down) about 6" deep into the tomato row about 6" from the base of each plant. One on each side of the plant. I could then take a 1/2" flexible tubing, run this through the netting mesh. I could then pour the fertilizer and water mix thru the tubing into the 3" PVC pieces until they fill with the mixture.

Sorry for being so long, but now my question...if I fertilize using this method will it be harmful to the plants since the fertilizer is not being applied to the surface soil but underground where it will come into direct contact with the roots of the plant?

I would appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Charlie

[b54red]

Get rid of the black plastic mulch and use some bark or something like that. I use plain cypress mulch. You can then just use a hose end sprayer and water the mulch and the fertilizer will get to all the roots. Black plastic really holds the heat in and that isn't a good thing down here in the south unless you just want a short season. Raised beds are generally warmer than the ground soil so adding black plastic will only increase that warmth. You will get a much longer growing season if your mulch both holds in moisture and keeps the soil cooler. Commercial growers use the black plastic and use a drip irrigation and fertilizing system under the plastic but they only pick the fruit a couple of times before their season is over.

Bill

[Cole_Robbie]

The pipe idea only works in sandy soil, which I assume you have. When I tried it in clay soil, the water just sits in the pipe and doesn't go anywhere.

[CharlieM]

Originally Posted by b54red

Get rid of the black plastic mulch and use some bark or something like that. I use plain cypress mulch. You can then just use a hose end sprayer and water the mulch and the fertilizer will get to all the roots. Black plastic really holds the heat in and that isn't a good thing down here in the south unless you just want a short season. Raised beds are generally warmer than the ground soil so adding black plastic will only increase that warmth. You will get a much longer growing season if your mulch both holds in moisture and keeps the soil cooler. Commercial growers use the black plastic and use a drip irrigation and fertilizing system under the plastic but they only pick the fruit a couple of times before their season is over.

Bill

Thanks Bill, I'll give the cypress mulch a try.

Charlie

[CharlieM]

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

The pipe idea only works in sandy soil, which I assume you have. When I tried it in clay soil, the water just sits in the pipe and doesn't go anywhere.

Cole, I do have very sandy soil. When you tried this approach, did you notice any problems because the fertilizer was applied direct to the roots?

Thanks for the reply.

Charlie

[Worth1]

You have sandy soil put the stuff on top and let it work its way down.
Plants feed from top surface roots.
Worth

[zipcode]

I think you are talking about liquid chemical solution, right? In that case, as Worth said, it's better to drip it from the top, for two reasons, one is that this way it will feed slowly all roots, from top going down, the second is you waste less. That fertilizer will, in time, mostly go down, and no roots will be there to absorb part of it.
Drip fertigation with holes at the base of each plant is probably the best way to avoid waste and best efficiency.

[CharlieM]

I'm the OP and want to thank all of you who replied. Your input was helpful.

Charlie

[zeroma]

That sounds way too complicated a method. Use an organic mulch, not plastic. Here is a quote from Linda, one of the Garden Professors from Washington State University.

"Bark by itself is quite hydrophobic and won't manage water well" from a facebook page called
The Garden Professors. All scientists who talk about horticulture with science facts to back them.

From what I've learned in my own landscape more so than vegetable garden and from that group rough arborist (which is the smaller branches and leaves of what tree trimmers trim off and chip up aka ramial chipped wood RCW works wonders to keep the soil healthy. For me it is my heavy clay. I put down 3=6 inches of wood chips and the soil under it the next year was so wonderful. You don't mix it into the soil, just apply it over the areas that would otherwise be left bare.

So I'd say get rid of the plastic so the soil can exchange moisture and gases properly. Bark on a tree to to prevent moisture entering or leaving through the trunk...so it is like putting plastic over your soil, like a cork keeps wine in a bottle. not nearly as healthy as course wood chips that won't become compact.

Just don't mix them into the soil as that will keep them from the slow decomposition of laying it on the top of your soil. When you do add fertilizer, just apply it on top of the wood chip mulch or other organic mulch, don't mix it in or move it to scrap or mix it into the soil.

I'll see if I can link you to The Garden Professors brb

z

Here is an older discussion with wood/bark mulch that I just added to tonight.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Gard...96369055016920