Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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July 14, 2007 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 111
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Zapotec fruit set
Hi all,
I have around forty varieties of tomatoes growing this year, and every one of them has set fruit EXCEPT for Zapotec. A picture of where it should be is attached. The plant is big and healthy, and right in the middle of a patch of garden (I have to grow things in little patches because my backyard is mostly a granite knoll with bits of soil here and there) surrounded by other plants that have set fruit. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any idea what's going on? thanks, Jonathan Last edited by Jonathan_E; July 14, 2007 at 06:31 PM. Reason: typo |
July 14, 2007 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NJ Z6
Posts: 12
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Here in Jersey Zapotec is usually a reliable producer for me. Both my plants have fruit set. Could be just a fluke?
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July 15, 2007 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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I have this one Pink Oxheart. It has been flowering
freely for 6 weeks, but just set the first fruit this last week. First 3 weeks of June were cool, cloudy, occasionally rainy, and it didn't like that. Then it heated up and shot up to 90F+ within a week, and apparently it didn't like that, either. Now it has been around 80F for a week, and it has finally decided that it is ok to set some fruit. You are a long way from the climate of Oaxaca, Mexico, and Zapotec is reputed to be late maturing anyway, so not having set any fruit yet doesn't really mean that anything is wrong, particularly. It just means that the plant has not reached conditions yet where it starts to set fruit. That could be climate or that could simply be number of weeks from seed-starting and transplant.
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July 15, 2007 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 111
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Thanks, Dice. I have some fairly large plants in pots that I intend to use to replace plants in the garden that die or otherwise don't work out (I never have enough space for all the seedlings), but I'll hold off trashing Zapotec for a while.
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July 16, 2007 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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It's getting kind of late in the season for transplants
in a northern climate. I was in a nursery a few days ago, looking at a couple of shrubs, and I wandered by a table that often has heirloom tomato seedlings. I'm standing there looking at this kind of spindly Black Plum plant, a cultivar that I have been curious about because of its reputation for ruggedness in difficult environmental conditions. For $.99, I was sorely tempted to buy it and set it out. (I have a space that I didn't actually intend to plant tomatoes in, but something ate all the zucchini sprouts there before they could get going. So it could have grown there.) Then I thought, "What am I, nuts? It is the middle of July in Western Washington. By the end of the season, this thing will be four feet tall at best and with luck have 3 tomatoes on it, and I won't know anything about it except how it tastes, which I could find out by buying a few fruit at a Farmer's Market." You are in a similar situation with your potted transplants and the Zapotec. How big is it? If it is really good sized and covered with flowers, I would probably give it the benefit of the doubt. Even if it starts late, it could still produce more tomatoes than an earlier cultivar that is only a foot or two tall that you set out now. If the Zapotec does not produce more than a few tomatoes, you have not lost much compared to a transplant that you put out now, unless the transplant is a very reliable cultivar that also happens to be covered in flowers and is already setting fruit in a one-gallon pot or something like that.
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July 16, 2007 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: 5b - Effingham, Illinois
Posts: 59
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I grew Zapotec for several years mainly because of my affinity with the people of Oaxaca, I have been there several times. I did not have any problem with fruit set but the plants did not produce very well.
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July 16, 2007 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 176
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Funny, to me it almost looks like there was fruit, and something ate it.
laurel-tx |
July 19, 2007 | #8 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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Quote:
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August 22, 2007 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 111
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All,
Thank you for your responses. Patience was rewarded. It's now 5 and a half weeks since I posted my question, and the Zapotec is 7 feet tall and has at least 24 fruits in various stages. You may be right about something removing a set fruit earlier. Just after I posted the question, there was a sudden decline in the population of small furry creatures in my garden, so maybe that's why things worked out better. Suze, I usually have at least 3 or 4 mules every year, even years, like this one, that are otherwise generally good growing years. For example, I'm attaching a pic of Dorothy's Green taken yesterday. It was planted at the same time as the OTV Brandywine on its right and the Lillian's Yellow Heirloom on its left, treated the same, same songs sung for it, etc. I never quite get it. As for late transplants, I have occasionally had some great results from doing so, especially from very vigorous varieties like Super Snow White or Purple Calabash. But I wouldn't try, for instance, to put in a Yellow Brandywine in July. Best regards, Jonathan Last edited by Jonathan_E; August 23, 2007 at 06:05 PM. Reason: correct name |
August 23, 2007 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 111
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Dice,
May I ask what part of Western Washington you are in? I grew up in Bellingham. Some years we had tons of wonderful tomatoes and some years we had nothing. I don't know what varieties my dad grew. I was just out in Washington for three weeks, driving around Puget Sound and the Olympic Peninsula. I have been scouting for a potential retirement place and of course, one of the criteria has been whether tomatoes will grow where I land. As I'm sure you know, the amount of rain and sunshine over the average year around Puget Sound and the Olympic Peninsula is highly variable, because of the rain shadow effect of the Olympic Mountains. Seattle gets 38 inches of rain a year, Port Townsend gets only 19, Sequim gets 16, Bremerton (which is only an hour's drive from Sequim) gets 52, Concrete gets 68, Olympia gets 54, Shelton gets 66, Bellingham gets 36, Orcas Island (Olga) gets 26, Lopez Island gets 19, Whidbey Island (Coupeville) gets 21. The ocean coast is gorgeous, but I don't think tomatoes can grow there: Long Beach gets 81 inches of rain, Clearwater gets 117, etc. Do you have any advice? Best, Jonathan |
August 23, 2007 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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I'm northwest of Mt. Rainier, out by the Sound.
Many years I've looked at the weather report and seen rain all around me, and looked out the window to see clear skies and sun overhead with solid cloud cover at every point of the compass. Not so lucky this year. I saw your question in the PNW thread and replied in more detail there. Synopsis: best bets would be Sequim or, conditional on having an effective windbreak, somewhere around the south end of Indian Heaven (http://www.naturenw.org/wild-indian-heaven.htm). Orcas or Lopez Island might be nice if you have the funds. Get a greenhouse. This one lady grows a lot of heirloom tomatoes out on Vashon Island, farther south, but I haven't seen her setup. (http://www.pacificpotager.com/) So much depends on the specific year. Last year we had 40 days straight with temperatures pushing 90F, and maybe a week of rain total from the first of June to the end of August. This year we've had 2-3 good weeks around 80F and one hot one (1 degree off the record at Sea-Tac). The rest of the time me might as well have been in St. Petersburg for the summer.
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August 23, 2007 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 111
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Thanks a bunch for the advice, Dice.
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August 23, 2007 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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"Thanks a bunch for the advice, Dice."
De nada. I haven't been up in the San Jauns often, and I don't know about the average yearly weather there from personal experience. It is beautiful country, but "the most polluted Orcas in the world" might give me pause. Edit: PS: A post by Carolyn in another thread reminded me that deer will be an issue in all of those areas, probably raccoons and possums, too. For the deer, you could try a 10-foot buffer zone of buckwheat around the edges of the property and a territorial dog. Deer like buckwheat, and with any luck the dog will notice them eating the buckwheat before they get to the garden. The only other alternative with long-term success is a deer fence too high for them to jump.
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-- alias Last edited by dice; August 23, 2007 at 04:44 PM. Reason: Additional info |
August 23, 2007 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 111
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My brother, who lives near Shelton, has a major deer issue but seems to have cured it with a good solid fence.
I don't understand the reference to "the most polluted Orcas in the world." What's this? |
August 23, 2007 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 111
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Dice, I'm not sure BTU's (degree days) are all that significant for tomatoes. In fact, I suspect that the average high temperature in July in Port Townsend (72) might be better for tomatoes than that in Wenatchee (88). Wenatchee has on the average 37 days per year with temperatures above 90; Port Townsend has one.
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