Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

General information and discussion about cultivating onions, garlic, shallots and leeks.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old September 26, 2018   #1
greenthumbomaha
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
Default Asian Tempest and other New to Me Garlic ?

I have planting questions on a few garlic varieties. Hopefully a little organization on planting varieties in rows will make harvesting at the optimum time easier to access so I'm not stepping over plants still growing. Learned the hard way in keeping the big porcelains separate.

I bought half pounds of seed:

Asian Tempest - a website said early in and early out. Do I need to set in a special area and plant now while still warmer, instead of with the other garlic in about 2 weeks? 4 bulbs purchased

Polish
Incelium Red
Waiting on arrival from Pinetree, grown there locally in Maine, so hopefully will do well here


Amish Rocambole
Persian Star
Pehoski Purple (returning from saved seed)

about 30 saved misc bulbs of all categories exclusive of porcelains below

10 bulbs each - some new, some from last year : will keep separate to compare adapiton:
German Extra Hardy
Music
Romanian Red

Garden is 30 X 30 sloped e-w , the upper(e) being best for drainage
Thanks for any help in arranging the rows!

- Lisa
greenthumbomaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 27, 2018   #2
PureHarvest
Tomatovillian™
 
PureHarvest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
Default

What is your in-row spacing going to be?
How much between rows, or if "beds", how many rows per bed and what is the space between beds?
I think garden planting is much easier to plan when you create a standard "bed unit"
About everything I grow is based on a 3' wide bed. That does not mean it is raised or special in any way. Just means it is a 3' wide growing area that can handle anything from one row of plants (zucchini) to two rows (broccoli), to 3 rows (garlic, strawberries) to 5 rows (carrots).
You could also go narrower to 30", as that is easier to reach across from one side to the other.
Then you can standardize the length based on your plot or how much you usually plant OR how you want to calculate inputs like fertilizer.
In your case, 10' long beds would probably be good for calculating ferts and give you enough unique areas to separate varieties.

Last edited by PureHarvest; September 27, 2018 at 02:37 PM.
PureHarvest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 27, 2018   #3
bower
Tomatovillian™
 
bower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
Default

If "Polish" is a softneck ( another name for NY White), then I can tell you it was a week earlier than Music, while Persian Star is at least a week later than Music.


One thing I have to do is make a map of what I plant where... there's no way you will remember it by harvest time. Although I'm learning to tell some apart by sight, there are varieties that you just can't tell apart.
bower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 28, 2018   #4
greenthumbomaha
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
Default

Thanks for your replies!

PH, I had too long a stretch between rows, about 6 rows before a walking path 2 feet wide and another 90 degrees at at 10 feet. In another words a tic tak board design. This made it easier to weed, or so I thought. I have on hand 4' dewitt sunbelt and dewitt pro 5 ,and they have the one foot stripes for rows but I went I went off stripe when overlapping. What I neglected to consider at the time of planting was the timing of harvest. I had to dig up rows of plants that were still green to access plants that were drying sown quickly. I hope to minimize this harvest situation by grouping the plants into like harvest time varieties.

I have only 15-25 cloves of each variety, and probably too many varieties. I was considering a 3 X 3 of each variety, instead of a 10' long row of one in a with 2' walking paths (mine was 6' which is where I went wrong) in a repeating pattern. I can used the entire area but would like to save some space for other crops.

Bower, that is helpful and a surprise! I was going to place the porcelain at the end. You saved me from stepping over plants again, as I was going to plant left to right. I found a link to a faq seed savers project from 2006 when a project for preservation began which listed harvest windows for the different varieties. Always exceptions, trying to digest.

I'll post photos of saved garlic for possible classification. We are in for a stretch of wet weather so tilling has been put on hold.

- Lisa
greenthumbomaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 28, 2018   #5
bower
Tomatovillian™
 
bower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
Default

Lisa,
It's always possible different varieties will respond differently to another climate. FWIW this year in the same bed (same amount of sunshine) the scapes emerged exactly one week later on Persian Star and Chesnok Red cw Music and my other porcelains, and Spanish Roja was one week later than the Persian Star. Just thought I would mention by name, since you may find them named in other resources and compared with your own varieties.



Re: planting layout, mostly beds are 3 or 4 across and we plant in sections rather than linear organization of different types. So if I have a dozen only of one type, I'll do it 3 across X 4 down the row, mark off and start the next one the same way. This way you have access to the whole variety in a block. Also I've noticed some varieties are noticeably shorter than others so I don't want them shaded by a row of something huge (Music and the other porcelains are big and tall. Persian Star, Chesnok Red, Spanish Roja and the NY White (?Polish) are considerably shorter.) Planting a block takes care of that concern.
bower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 12, 2019   #6
greenthumbomaha
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
Default

Asian Tempest !!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg asian tempest scape.jpg (184.3 KB, 95 views)
File Type: jpg AT normal scape.jpg (175.8 KB, 96 views)
greenthumbomaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 12, 2019   #7
bower
Tomatovillian™
 
bower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
Default

Wow! What a gorgeous color of bulbils! And large as well!
bower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 14, 2019   #8
greenthumbomaha
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
Default

Not at all matching the scape description over at Grey Duck Garlic. Scapes were considerably shorter than neighboring varietiesl in my area.


- Lisa
greenthumbomaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 19, 2019   #9
greenthumbomaha
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by greenthumbomaha View Post
I have planting questions on a few garlic varieties. Hopefully a little organization on planting varieties in rows will make harvesting at the optimum time easier to access so I'm not stepping over plants still growing. Learned the hard way in keeping the big porcelains separate.

I bought half pounds of seed:

Asian Tempest - a website said early in and early out. Do I need to set in a special area and plant now while still warmer, instead of with the other garlic in about 2 weeks? 4 bulbs purchased

Polish
Incelium Red
Waiting on arrival from Pinetree, grown there locally in Maine, so hopefully will do well here

Amish Rocambole
Persian Star
Pehoski Purple (returning from saved seed)

about 30 saved misc bulbs of all categories exclusive of porcelains below

10 bulbs each - some new, some from last year : will keep separate to compare adapiton:
German Extra Hardy
Music
Romanian Red

Garden is 30 X 30 sloped e-w , the upper(e) being best for drainage
Thanks for any help in arranging the rows!

- Lisa

I don't know which variety or classification this is, but I have been getting a high number of double bulbs, each having it's own scape but butted up against each other. I was careful not to plant double cloves. Any thoughts as to cause?


In the photo, the smaller two were partially cojoined, and the smaller of the pair (nicked) had the scape left on. Normal bulbs for comparison.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg garlic doubles.JPG (107.2 KB, 59 views)

Last edited by greenthumbomaha; July 19, 2019 at 11:17 PM.
greenthumbomaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 20, 2019   #10
bower
Tomatovillian™
 
bower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
Default

From what I have read, the rocamboles are especially prone to double cloves inside one wrapper. You can't see it when you plant what looks like one clove, and then you end up with double bulbs.
So this is probably your 'Amish Rocambole'.
bower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old October 28, 2019   #11
greenthumbomaha
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
Default

Asian Tempest did very well despite erratic weather. It was supposed to be first in first out. It was not planted early and was harvested along with the other garlic. Tasting to follow after replanting this week.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 4 tempest.JPG (124.7 KB, 34 views)
greenthumbomaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:37 AM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★