Is this TSWV

[Snozzcumber]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

Spinosad in rotation with Thyme-Guard will eliminate most pest issues. Every 2 weeks starting at plant out. I find it best to be proactive as thripes are hard to notice until 2 late.

I gave them a good dose of Spinosad following the plant removal. I will check into Thyme-Guard as well. 👍🏻

[b54red]

I have never used Spinosad but I am thinking of getting some for spider mites and see if it will work. What is the best way to purchase it or what is the best source for it?

One of my favorite tomatoes is Brandywine Sudduth's and I lost both to TSWV last year and it is one that doesn't perform as well in the heat so I didn't replace it. I try to get in one or two of all the more heat sensitive varieties in early and plant more of the heat tolerant varieties after April.

Bill

[Snozzcumber]

Originally Posted by b54red

I have never used Spinosad but I am thinking of getting some for spider mites and see if it will work. What is the best way to purchase it or what is the best source for it?

One of my favorite tomatoes is Brandywine Sudduth's and I lost both to TSWV last year and it is one that doesn't perform as well in the heat so I didn't replace it. I try to get in one or two of all the more heat sensitive varieties in early and plant more of the heat tolerant varieties after April.

Bill

I used the Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew concentrate. It says it contains 0.5% Spinosad. I’m still pretty new to growing tomatoes and learning how to deal with the diseases, heat and humidity, pests, etc. I’m in extreme southwest Georgia and my
plants are usually done by the end of June. Would love to learn how to stagger and get a longer season. I’m thinking of rooting some suckers this year and see what happens....

[b54red]

Originally Posted by Snozzcumber

I used the Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew concentrate. It says it contains 0.5% Spinosad. I’m still pretty new to growing tomatoes and learning how to deal with the diseases, heat and humidity, pests, etc. I’m in extreme southwest Georgia and my
plants are usually done by the end of June. Would love to learn how to stagger and get a longer season. I’m thinking of rooting some suckers this year and see what happens....

If you are in extreme southwest Ga. then you are certainly close to me since I am in southeast Al. If your plants are done by the end of June then you may also have problems with fusarium wilt and RKN like I have. I graft tomatoes onto a root stock that is resistant to both and rarely have plants die that early unless either TSWV or spider mites get hold of them.

If you are growing heirlooms or open pollinated varieties then you will find that they have little resistance to fusarium wilt or RKN. If you have neither problem now, you will sooner or later down here. Before I started grafting my tomatoes I used to start tomato seed at least three different times. I would grow mostly the varieties that did poor in the heat first and then go to the more heat tolerant varieties as the season moved on. Younger plants tend to set fruit far better in the heat than the older tired plants so by staggering your plantings you also increase the likelihood that you will be more successful when the really hot humid weather arrives as it always does. You will also need to use a good mulch to protect the plants from splash back from the soil and to keep the soil more evenly moist my favorite is cypress mulch. You also need to start a regular fungicide spraying alternating Daconil and a copper spray every week or two. Be constantly ready to aggressively go after certain pests that can destroy your crop.

If you are growing more resistant hybrids some of them will be determinate plants that tend to drastically slow production after the initial burst of fruit and so will be earlier to fade out. It is also critical to do some pruning on indeterminate plants so that air flow is improved. Really dense plants look great for a short time but the dense foliage is a recipe for diseases down here and limiting the number of stems will actually increase your fruit set as well as the size of the fruit.

PM me if you have any questions and I will try to help if I can.

Bill

[Snozzcumber]

Originally Posted by b54red

If you are in extreme southwest Ga. then you are certainly close to me since I am in southeast Al. If your plants are done by the end of June then you may also have problems with fusarium wilt and RKN like I have. I graft tomatoes onto a root stock that is resistant to both and rarely have plants die that early unless either TSWV or spider mites get hold of them.

If you are growing heirlooms or open pollinated varieties then you will find that they have little resistance to fusarium wilt or RKN. If you have neither problem now, you will sooner or later down here. Before I started grafting my tomatoes I used to start tomato seed at least three different times. I would grow mostly the varieties that did poor in the heat first and then go to the more heat tolerant varieties as the season moved on. Younger plants tend to set fruit far better in the heat than the older tired plants so by staggering your plantings you also increase the likelihood that you will be more successful when the really hot humid weather arrives as it always does. You will also need to use a good mulch to protect the plants from splash back from the soil and to keep the soil more evenly moist my favorite is cypress mulch. You also need to start a regular fungicide spraying alternating Daconil and a copper spray every week or two. Be constantly ready to aggressively go after certain pests that can destroy your crop.

If you are growing more resistant hybrids some of them will be determinate plants that tend to drastically slow production after the initial burst of fruit and so will be earlier to fade out. It is also critical to do some pruning on indeterminate plants so that air flow is improved. Really dense plants look great for a short time but the dense foliage is a recipe for diseases down here and limiting the number of stems will actually increase your fruit set as well as the size of the fruit.

PM me if you have any questions and I will try to help if I can.

Bill

Thanks so much for your willingness to help!! This is my 4th year growing tomatoes (hybrids and heirlooms), so I am still learning A LOT. Having advice from established growers such as yourself is so valuable in addition to my own experience. 👍🏻