Best seed starting system

[Milan HP]

Yes, there's a big difference between small gardeners and big growers. No way for the latter to use the techniques of the former. That's why I always say there's no method for all: the conditions always matter.

Milan HP

[MrBig46]

I agree. Tomatoes only need the right heat and moisture to germinate. It germinates in anything, it doesn't matter on the substrate or containers. When the plants climb up the surface, they need light.
Vladimír

[AKmark]

Originally Posted by MrBig46

I agree. Tomatoes only need the right heat and moisture to germinate. It germinates in anything, it doesn't matter on the substrate or containers. When the plants climb up the surface, they need light.
Vladimír

Exactly

[Canehdian]

i have good luck with the Jiffy peat pellets that can come with a tray with a clear plastic dome. Use a seed starter mat heater underneath the tray. I leave the dome ajar for circulation which helps to ensure the pods are not too wet for too long.

[happydog]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this method. It's the best system I've found. I've used it for the last 10 years. It's easily scaled up or down.

http://tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=437

[Hudson_WY]

We grow about 50 tomato plants every season in our GH. We've had great success planting the seeds in 3/4" soil blocks (using potting soil) that are placed on a capillary mat, watering the bottom mat and not directly on the soil blocks. Then we transplant them to 4" pots in 2-3 weeks until they are ready to be transferred to the GH in about 6 weeks, all under grow lights indoors. Here are a few photos:

[Milan HP]

Hello Hudson,
yes, this a good way for small gardeners. I prefer sowing them separately on tissue in plastic boxes (which I probably mistakenly called propagator as I don't have to heat them). The reasons are twofold: first I can see the progress the seeds are making and then I don't have to separate the baby seedlings from each other as I want to avoid damaging the roots. Some people say that it is even beneficial to cut the roots but my experiment 2 years ago didn't show any difference between the treated ones and the control group. Moreover, I don't waste any potting soil on the seeds that won't germinate.

One thing that I am going to change is heating. I'll definitely buy a propagation mat, room temperatures are okay for tomatoes, but not for peppers. I can't live in over 80°F.
Milan HP

[ponyexpress]

Originally Posted by FarmerShawn

You mix the potting mix with water until a mudpie consistency, then press as much of the mix into the blocker as you can, creating a compressed block of potting soil which holds its shape while seedlings grow and it gets planted out. No pots, plants never get rootbound, very east to transplant.

How long do you let the tomato seedlings grow in a soil block before transplanting? How do you water them? Bottom watering with the blocks on a mesh tray? Capillary mats? Misting from a sprayer?