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#151 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
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Yes,you could go to EXTOXNET, a fabulous site and look around for more info but a quick search here at Tville I'm pretty sure would bring up similar info.. I know that I've posted links from that site many times here. Yes,I like to watch bubbles form when bleach hits the dirt but much prefer to see my bubbles in a glass. ![]() Carolyn
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#152 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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Bleach treatment is a last ditch, hail Mary approach in my garden. I think it is pretty early in the grow season and plants are still tender at this stage, possibly making them more susceptible to damage from bleach. Also, if you read many of Bill's posts on this, he is primarily using it when the plants are affected by mold. Most other pathogens are treatable with a variety of things less "nuclear" than the bleach option. When you have mold, it is often far more advanced than you realize and where the mold is, the bleach will kill it and the leaves it is on. I'm not sure how it works on other problems, as I only use it to treat mold. I'm always stunned and sad to see how many more leaves are affected than I realized as they wither and die. Still, new growth is usually right around the corner and that is where most of the flowering will be.
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#153 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,149
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Ounces to Cups Conversion The conversion factors from fluid ounces (fl oz) to cups for imperial and U.S. customary volume measurement systems are listed below. To find out how many cups in ounces, multiply by the right conversion factor or use the converter below. 1 Ounce [Fluid, US] = 0.125 (1/8) Cup [US] 1 Ounce [Fluid, UK] = 0.11365225 Cup [Metric] Fluid ounce is an imperial and U.S. customary volume unit. Since often causes confusion, please note that it is different than the ounces which is a mass (weight) unit. The abbreviation is "fl oz". Cup is a volume unit and used mostly in cooking to measure liquid and bulk, dry foods. There is no international size standard for it but mostly united states customary and metric cups are used. The abbreviation is "c".
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#154 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,149
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Ron used 1/4 cup to 1 liter of water??? 1 liter of water is 1/4 gallon. It looks like your math was off by 75%.
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#155 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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I think he said to 1 gallon of water, not one liter.
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#156 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,149
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I think he used 1/4 cup to 1 liter of water.
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#157 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
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I see, we are talking about 2 different folks! I was talking about Aaron in Austin who said:
Unread 3 Days Ago #141 Down_South Tomatovillian™ Down_South's Avatar Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 79 Default The bleach spray totally totaled my tomatoes and more. I used the exact recipe mentioned in this thread with hopes it would help with some early blight. I used a digital scale for exact amounts. 4.9 ounces for a full gallon of water with 8.25% of bleach. I applied it late evening. 24 hours later they were burnt. I'll pull them out tomorrow. That's 5 dwarfs and 2 indeterminate cherries? Dang it!!! __________________ ~Aaron |
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#158 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
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#159 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I gave my measurements by volume only. I have no idea what differences weighing out the measurements would be.
Dewayne, there is almost no possible way that a formulation using 4.8 ounces of bleach added to a full gallon of water would burn your plants badly unless they were eaten up with disease or battered so that the plants were damaged severely before the bleach was put on them. As I have said before it is a good idea to try the mix you make on a couple of plants first and wait at least 24 hours to see if the mix is too strong or too weak. Either will result in trouble so it is best to test. I have had bottles of bleach myself that were far stronger than the label indicates and damaged a few plants as a result. Another way to damage plants is to use it in the middle of the day when it is sunny or when the plants are damaged by hail or heavy rain as the bleach can more readily enter the broken leaves. I will try again to make this clear: I do not use the bleach spray as a last resort but rather the first resort once I see certain diseases making an appearance on my plants. I start with fungicides applied weekly but they invariably fail to one degree or another and when this happens I immediately use the bleach spray. I also use the bleach spray as a preventative spray on squash, melons and cucumbers so I can stop mildews before they get bad. Once they get bad the bleach spray will kill off so many leaves that it takes them a while to recover. The same is true of some diseases on tomatoes. If you procrastinate too long before using the bleach spray after the first symptoms occur the loss of leaves can be catastrophic. I have not used the bleach spray yet this year as I have seen nothing but a bit of EB on a few plants and I removed those leaves. I did just buy a three gallon pack of Clorox bleach so I will be ready for the summer onslaught of diseases down here. Bill Bill |
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#160 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Santa Maria California
Posts: 1,014
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Bill, I'm glad you mentioned the melons, squash and cucumbers. I'm in a wet environment here . I'm growing those this year and won't hesitate to break out your recipe again for everything this time. Jimbo.
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#161 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
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Bill |
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#162 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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Bill
I wasn't questioning the formulation, just the 2 different posters, one of whom did talk about 5oz to the gallon and the other 5 oz to the liter - a massive different. It probably is the case that my experience with bleach spray has been to wait too long to use it and therefore when it reacts, it is killing off the diseased leaves. Mold moves very quickly and can spread far before you find it if you aren't super diligent - especially in high pressure times of very warm and wet weather. Maybe I need to change my mindset about last resort. What I've been doing is using daconil, then copper, then copper plus mancozeb, then bleach. |
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#163 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
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I always refer people to this thread. Bill is the one who first developed this method and has the most knowledge. Thanks Bill! As he always has said, first use the bleach. Bleach kills the pathogens. Bleach only kills the pathogen and is only effective while it is wet. It does nothing to prevent re-infection. So, then apply your daconil, copper or whatever you choose as a fungicide because these are only preventatives and will not do anything to kill an existing pathogen.
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#164 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
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Thank you to bill for posting the amounts and how to use bleach spray and the why, as well as what it does exactly from MissS.
Hopefully, that will help clarify things about the bleach spray and the 5 "W's" of using it. For me, it is a valuable tool. |
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#165 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 93
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I also measured by volume, the difference was negligible at small amounts. I'm thinking the problem was the bleach I bought may have had a higher concentration then what was listed.
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