Replacing handles and other tips.

[JRinPA]

Speaking of oil, I read about some people running olive oil 16:1 in their old outboards. Personally, I think the smell would make me too hungry to want to fish. At minimum I would have to pack a hoagie in the cooler.

[luigiwu]

So castor oil from the drugstore is okay, right? or this stuff, see below:
And the tips of the pruner are covered now with black stuff, sooty looking. Should I go over it with some steel wool before putting the mineral oil on it?

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by luigiwu

So castor oil from the drugstore is okay, right? or this stuff, see below:
And the tips of the pruner are covered now with black stuff, sooty looking. Should I go over it with some steel wool before putting the mineral oil on it?

Nope the mineral oil ans yes just go over them with some steel wool.

Worth

[SamiKihano]

I like to make walnut handles for most of my indoor tools, Pacific Madrone for skinning, and ash for anything I make such as an axe or hammer handle.
Lovely work by the way. I'll have to figure out how to upload my droid pictures, you may enjoy my work with Cascadia vine maple handles and tobacco pipes. The wood grows so slowly that every year appears as a millimeter thick growth ring. We think the piece just big enough for my pipe was roughly 50 years old!

[bower]

Originally Posted by JRinPA

Speaking of oil, I read about some people running olive oil 16:1 in their old outboards. Personally, I think the smell would make me too hungry to want to fish. At minimum I would have to pack a hoagie in the cooler.

Did you ever notice that green birch when it's cut and split smells exactly like EVOO? Pretty powerful aroma and makes it a pleasure to stack...
Not entirely off topic someone may come on and tell us how they season the splits to make handles.

[Worth1]

No worries talk about what you want to.

Worth

[bower]

So it happens I found that old axe we used to clear stumps and indeed there's a maker's mark on it: HB Made in Sweden. I had looked at the favourite hatchet and didn't see a mark, but when I looked again it is the same maker. Really nice axes, very well balanced and good blades.
My Dad must have sharpened this up after the last time we used it, because the blade looks just too good. The handle is another story, you can see the awful shape it's in and it is not the original, I don't know who shaved it up like that but what a contrast to you guys' clean work. Here it is, cobwebs and all.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by bower

So it happens I found that old axe we used to clear stumps and indeed there's a maker's mark on it: HB Made in Sweden. I had looked at the favourite hatchet and didn't see a mark, but when I looked again it is the same maker. Really nice axes, very well balanced and good blades.
My Dad must have sharpened this up after the last time we used it, because the blade looks just too good. The handle is another story, you can see the awful shape it's in and it is not the original, I don't know who shaved it up like that but what a contrast to you guys' clean work. Here it is, cobwebs and all.

Bower the shaving on the handle is from whacking it on the other end to get it to tighten up so it want fly off.
That is a good product and in need of a new handle.
Worth

[Worth1]

This one goes in the handle section I guess.
It is made from a mesquite limb I picked up off the ground, a brass valve stem I got from the junk years ago and the remnants of a cheap pellet rifle barrel.
I needed a brass hammer so I just made the thing using both lathes and my drill press.

While making it I was trying to figure out how to make the handle stay on.
Glue?
A pin?
Press fit?
A nut in the back?
Thread it you idiot.
Worth
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[Worth1]

It didn't look completed so I decided to try my luck at copper spinning.
Now it is completed.

Worth

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[AlittleSalt]

Is it possible to round off the wooden area where in meets the copper? Once in a blue moon - you might need to choke up on the hammer and it might be more comfortable to the grip, but then again - it may work better as a finger grip point that your ring finger catches the way it is - giving it a steadier grip.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by AlittleSalt

Is it possible to round off the wooden area where in meets the copper? Once in a blue moon - you might need to choke up on the hammer and it might be more comfortable to the grip, but then again - it may work better as a finger grip point that your ring finger catches the way it is - giving it a steadier grip.

Salt I use the bottom three fingers to swing the hammer as the top of the handle pivots on my index finger and thumb without moving my arm or wrist.
Like you would a chasers hammer.
This is only done in small taps to move things around a thousandth of an inch or a fraction of a degree.
That is why the knob is on the bottom.
It is made out of brass so it wont dent my lathe or other equipment.
Worth

[Worth1]

Now the handle feels right and looks better.
I had to find the steel and grind another tool to do it.
Worth
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[matereater]

I like the new version much better, looks like it would be easier to hang onto. nice work !!

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by matereater

I like the new version much better, looks like it would be easier to hang onto. nice work !!

Thank you Steve it is already coming in handy.
Another scrap piece has a center drill hole in it and I use it to place on the pointed end of the tapered lathe centers to tap them into place.
I have yet to see anyone use something like this on pointed lathe centers.
They normally hit it with a lead or brass hammer and it destroys the hammer face.
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