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#166 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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I've never bought those type of carry trays.
I like the 4.5" Coex round pots; but even a tiny seedling is lost in there. I think it would be even more lost in a 5.5" square pot. Are you looking at the 5.5" for transplanting? Do you currently sow your seeds in the solo cups? You are really successful at growing tomatoes, I wouldn't mess with success. Here is the pouring tray: http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/c...d=pouring+tray I have one, but it seems really useful. I have 4 of those trays $5.50 - they are really thick plastic. |
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#167 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
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Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth in the tomato seedling/transplant cup topic. I bought I lot of Peanut Grass transplants once (to my regret) and they came in inserts which had 32 cells per. I decided to use them for my tomato seedlings. I had many inserts, so I took quite a few and cut them into individual cups. This allowed me to put individual cells into the a sheet of cells, which I had not cut up. When my seedlings are ready to transplant to a bigger cup, then I can simply lift each one out individually. Of course I could have used a larger 3 1/2" cup for seedlings but I didn't want to use that much starter mix. I've been accused of walking on my elbows in order not to wear out my shoes. My next step is to move my seedling from this small cup to a larger one containing compost. I only want to make this move once, so I want my larger cup to be large enough to hold my plant until transplant into the garden. For this I use a 3 1/2" (at the top) square cup and 3 1/2" high. I avoid the ones 3" or 3 1/4" high. Ever bit of more soil I can get in my 3 1/2" cup counts because I want them to hold my plant until transplant. If I am a bit late getting them transplanted (as I was this season) the indeterminates start to get leggy. This season I had to compensate by planting the stem somewhat horizontal before going vertical. It seems to have worked well enough. I have been enjoying reading what others are doing. Lots of good ideas.
Thanks, Larry |
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#168 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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I transplant them into solo cups when they are still pretty small and the potting mix is only about half way up the solo cup because the plant is so tiny. As they grow, I add more and more potting mix to cover up the stem of the plant as it reaches up to the top of the cup and higher. It makes more and more roots more quickly from more root hairs that way. But the solo cups are so clumsy and I have more than once dumped them over (like they all fell off onto the ground and I had to repot them). So I want something about as tall as the solo cups that are easier to carry around since I move them in and out every day for the first month or so. We get so much dew at night (being right on the water) that if I leave them out they have fungus before we even get going. Just wanted to add... I don't want to change the way I do it, as it works for me, I just want to replace the solo cups... :-) I have some pots here, I will measure them and see which size seems best. I was mainly only going with the larger one because it was taller. Ginny Last edited by Fiishergurl; September 14, 2015 at 03:54 PM. |
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#169 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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Oh that sounds like a great way to be able to get the seedlings transplanted easily. Always learning new things from everybody on here. That's what I love about this group... :-) Ginny |
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#170 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,497
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If you use the 1020 trays with plugs the pouring trays will not accommodate the 1020s.I use the plug 1020s and utilize the black 1020 trays(regular) for bottom watering/fertilization.To water I just make a solution up,fill in tray,insert plug trays,wait until plugs wick up solution then transfer to dry tray.Usually if needed transfer plugs to another clean dry tray after excess solution runs out.
This is from their (GMStore) site. Will a 1020 flat fit in this? Want to use this for bottom watering, or do you have a tray that a 1020 flat would fit in? A Unfortunately the Pouring Tray would not fit the dimensions of the 1020 Tray. We would suggest the Standard Garden Tray, Black CN-GAR-016
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KURT |
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#171 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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Ginny |
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#172 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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I didn't mean the pouring tray as a tray to move the seedlings back and forth; I find it useful for lots of thing. I hope I didn't mislead you.
Forgot to post yesterday, but my seeds from Artisan came in yesterday's mail. Already sowed some. I will try to get pictures later of my seedlings. |
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#173 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,497
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#174 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SouthFlorida Zone 10
Posts: 120
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I kind of gave up on spraying for white flies and aphids.....
They stay off of my tomato plants, at least the healthy ones! Now hot/sweet peppers are another story, the whiteflys love them. I gave up on heirlooms and only growing hybrid peppers bread for strong diseases resistance this year... we shall seee The pressure is just too great and all the organic solutions just don't seem to work effectively Last edited by Imthechuck; September 15, 2015 at 01:58 PM. |
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#175 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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or are you referring to something else (need link if so)? I'm amazed they get 1.5' in the cell. I use those cells, both sizes, but I like the bigger/deeper ones better. This year, when seedlings were totally different sizes, I ended up putting the small one back in the cell to give it more time. This was a first for me. Another thing, re: the farmers depositing them into the final growing fields - what about nematodes? Do you plant in the ground or in containers? Thanks for the info: Barb |
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#176 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,497
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http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/p...l-plug-trays/s
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KURT |
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#177 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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Kurt - I'm going to try those. Thats what i want is somthing deep like that.
Ginny Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk |
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#178 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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removed text; in post below with pictures.
Last edited by Barb_FL; September 15, 2015 at 06:13 PM. |
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#179 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 820
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Thanks Kurt, I just ordered some of those. I wish I had known about them before I planted my first chard, collard, mustard and totsoi. I have been using the 50 cell trays and then stepping up to 4 " pots. This should save me a step and soil. What I really liked about the ones you posted is they are offset. The ones that are all in a row get too crowded. I am looking forward to trying these out.
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#180 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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Kurt, Thanks for the explantion; I think I will try them in December for the spring crop. I use to do 1 seed per cell, but got away from it b/c the seedlings seemed to do better with competition. Transplanting when 1 seed/cell was much less stressful on the plant.
I have the 15 Cell Deep Plugs but have only used them for growing broccoli. Ginny, the 15 Cell Deep Plugs would be useful for carrying your solo cups. It is really sturdy - but won't fit the 1020 trays; maybe that is why I got the XL Garden tray; But to water, I just use a lid from a storage container; you can see it in the 2nd picture. I don't think I would grow tomatoes in it though. There is mix underneath the cup; otherwise, it would fit in it. It was sunny this AM, but rained a little, and then cloudy all afternoon; so I transplanted whether they needed it or not (haha). It was raining when I took this picture; so they are in my porch. |
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