Random Pictures.

[Worth1]

Next.
Worth
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[Worth1]

Now to get from this to the router.
Worth
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[Worth1]

Any ideas will be appreciated but before you get the wild idea of taking the handles off it isn't going to happen.
There are plugs you have to drill out to get to the bolts that hold the handles on.
This is a great router but I wouldn't buy another one.
The body isn't a standard size like the rest are.
Worth
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[Worth1]

Well hoopty do, I was reading information on line ((((Forums)))) as to how hard it was to get the handles off.
No you cant get the plugs out.
People were breaking stuff and drilling the whole plug out taking all day and giving up.
So I went and looked up the parts list with the explodes view to see what the deal was and get an idea of the angle.
I usual I started the hole with a starting bit and the top of the plug is hollow.
All I had to do is drill two small hols to get to the allen head screws and they are off.
Took like 5 minutes.
Plus side, the screws are captured in the handles behind the plugs I cant lose them.
Worth
IMG_20160704_4385.jpg

[bower]

Can't wait to see what you do with this setup!
Worth, I have a couple of those bench blocks but didn't see a manufacturers mark on it. My first anvil came from Canadian Tire it is made from the soft metal that the Chinese use for their axes. shown below with the hammer in the vise. I am not a machinist and could never make the things you do. But I have uses for both rough and smooth surfaces, the pitted old hammer in the vise has a nice texture effect, but you have to have a polished surface to make something smooth and bright. Twilight is deceptive - nothing is that perfect but time of day my excuse for looking better than fact. The hammer is a cheap Mastercraft from Canadian Tire but my favourite out of the bag of hammers I own and use for one thing or another. Better quality than I expected.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by bower

Can't wait to see what you do with this setup!
Worth, I have a couple of those bench blocks but didn't see a manufacturers mark on it. My first anvil came from Canadian Tire it is made from the soft metal that the Chinese use for their axes. shown below with the hammer in the vise. I am not a machinist and could never make the things you do. But I have uses for both rough and smooth surfaces, the pitted old hammer in the vise has a nice texture effect, but you have to have a polished surface to make something smooth and bright. Twilight is deceptive - nothing is that perfect but time of day my excuse for looking better than fact. The hammer is a cheap Mastercraft from Canadian Tire but my favourite out of the bag of hammers I own and use for one thing or another. Better quality than I expected.

Bower I dont see a place to buy them but here is a supplier that sells good stuff.
One thing you need is a chasers hammer and I will tell you how to use it if you don't know how already.
Here is a link to a good anvil at least I think it is.
http://www.grobetusa.com/anvil-horn-...tem-no-12-305/

Then when you get to this site look up chasers hammer in search.

The last time I used a pin router was years ago in the 80s.
The thing cost thousands of dollars back then.
No one in the shop but the owner and myself had the imagination to know what to do with it.
People would just walk by and look at it.
This looks a lot like it the table goes up and down and tilts.
The spindle goes up and down and different sized pins go in the middle.



You can mount an X-Y table and or a rotary table in it.

It is the milling machine of wood working.

Worth

[Worth1]

Got my angles and all I need is two small metric allen screws.
If I had a chunk of 3 1/2 pipe I wouldn't be doing it this way.

Worth
IMG_20160704_40103.jpg

[Worth1]

These will be the bracket mounts for the router to connect to.
They will be welded on to the collar I made.
Worth
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[Worth1]

Here is what all that tomfoolery was with the welding.
Worth
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[Worth1]

Lots of fiddling to do yet but here is what I am headed for.
The collar will be on top of the router and the excess cut off.
Better too long than too short.

If you move the angled part up and down on the router ears the top parts will get wider or narrower.
The whole project may be a flop it wont be the first time.
Being able to deal with a failure is important.
Worth
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[Worth1]

Don't fight it fix it.
The chuck needed ti be cleaned of chips as it all of a sudden got difficult to use.
Worth

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[Worth1]

I'm not going to bore you all to death with a bunch more pictures on the process of doing this but it was many arduous steps to get everything right.
I have about four more welds to make and this thing is completed.
It has preformed well beyond my expectations as is.
Now I need to make the proper jigs and fencing to make it function correctly.
Worth
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[Worth1]

I'm going to post one more photo of but one of the many ways I get taps started straight.
After I drilled through three pieces of steel I removed the outer bracket as this one gets what is called a clearance hole no threads.
Then I chuck the tap up in the drill press assuring a straight set of threads.
I dont turn on the press I just turn it by hand until the tap is started square with the hole.
I remove the tap from the chuck and use a tap wrench to tap through the two pieces of steel.
Then a clearance hole is drilled through the outer bracket.
I have learned through years of goof ups to take my time and do it right.
First rule if you are in so much of a hurry to not do it right then you don't have time to do it.

Worth
IMG_20160707_35551.jpg

[TexasTycoon]

My random picture for today is a post-it note I doodled on at work on my lunch break

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by TexasTycoon

My random picture for today is a post-it note I doodled on at work on my lunch break

((What)))!!!! no comments on my welding skills.

No that picture of yours says it all my fine feathered friend.
It means deal with it.
When life hands you lemons make lemonade.
Make the best of what you have.

Worth