Lathe Hack and old school tool use. - Page 14

Fusion_power · March 14, 2017

There is nothing at all wrong with it Worth. It even includes a side table. I would rate it in very good condition. Original price with the side table was about $400. I would have paid $180 for the fence and rails, but went to $225 since he had the side table.

Worth1 · March 14, 2017

Yet another leg pulling.

Worth

Fusion_power · March 14, 2017

Yes Worth, only the best for you, including in the leg pulling department.

Original Biesemeyer fences are arguably the best that have ever been made. The modern Delta imported fences with the Biesemeyer name are not cut from the same quality cloth. Finding an original Biesemeyer U.S. made fence in excellent condition with side table for $225 will turn a plow horse table saw into a race horse cabinet grade machine.

dmforcier · March 14, 2017

Pics. We want pics.

Worth1 · March 15, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmforcier

Pics. We want pics.

He's too cheap to post pictures.
Worth

Fusion_power · March 16, 2017

Be patient. I have to work all week long and won't get to put it on the saw until this weekend. I will take pictures and show you the final result.

Fusion_power · March 16, 2017

I managed an hour working on the table saw today. I got the front and back rails measured and fitted in a way that will work. The installation instructions I found on the web describe how it should fit but are geared for another type saw. I had to make a few changes to get it to fit a Craftsman. It is simple to fit onto the saw, but requires very accurate measurements to get the fence to slide properly.

If anyone is interested, here are the issues so far.

When I aligned the back rail as per the instructions, the notch at the rear does not align with the blade guard. I checked the fit very carefully and decided that it makes sense to move the rails about 3 inches to the side. The side effect of doing this is that the square tube with the ruler will be offset the same distance. I can fix this either by moving the ruler or by re-drilling 7 holes in the square tube and threading the holes to attach to the front rail.

Because of the way my saw is made, I can only use 2 of the factory holes on each rail to attach to the saw. The holes are drilled for 3/8 inch bolts but the instructions also suggest drilling 1/4 inch holes and using smaller hardware if necessary. I prefer to use 3/8 bolts and avoid the hassle of drilling more than necessary.

Fusion_power · March 17, 2017

I mounted the front rail on the saw today and got the fence preliminarily aligned. Drilling the holes was relatively easy but definitely a result of measure 10 times before drilling once.

The fence rides on a couple of nylon pads that are attached to the bottom by being forced into a pair of holes drilled into the metal. These pads were not properly aligned for my saw so I used a couple of hive tools to pry one of the pads out then drilled a pair of holes and tapped the studs into the new location. The result is that the fence rides exactly where it should on the saw table. By being very careful, I got the fence to slide across the table surface with no dragging yet the clearance above the table is less than the thickness of a sheet of paper.

The lock lever had a couple of places where the paint had been worn off. I removed it and sanded smooth, then re-painted with a fairly durable gray paint. I stopped work after doing this because the paint needs to dry before I do anything further on the fence.

Tomorrow I will mount the back rail and then re-attach the side table.

I am doing this work very slowly, carefully measuring and fitting to get the desired results. Mounting the front rail was done using a pair of wooden guides made to exactly 2 27/32 inches deep which is the correct depth per the installation guide.

Fusion_power · March 18, 2017

I had time to use the Biesemeyer fence today and made perfect cuts with a Freud 40 tooth LU86R010 blade. The blade is currently $42 on Amazon. "Freud LU86R010 10-Inch 40 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf General Purpose Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating"

First impressions are that it is very easy to align, adjustments are easily made, and it slides across the table saw a lot easier than my old Craftsman fence.

I still have to fix the measuring strip and attach the side table. It needs a good coat of wax to protect the surface and make moving the fence easier.

Worth1 · March 19, 2017

I am interested and reading everything at least times not once.
I also looked up the instructions on how to mount the fence on a Unisaw.
There are several almost fool proof ways to get where your holes need to be without measuring.
One is called transfer punches.
Another is to use a long template made from painters tape or cardboard and a ball peen hammer.
Get the stuff lined up where you want it and make the first hole with the ball end of the hammer put a bolt in it and make the other hole the same way.

I have used the last method to make huge gaskets for pump housings and inspection covers on giant industrial engines.
Cut the whole gasket out with a ball peen hammer.

Worth1 · March 19, 2017

Counter Bore.
Not not the presidential debates.

This is where you want a bolt to be flush with the surface of a hole.
Or maybe you need to drill a flat bottomed hole for a spring to fit in or any other reason.
I did this yesterday and it worked great.
Sadly I had never thought of it before.

Here I will post a link to the guy I learned it from on YouTube.
No he isn't one of the top guys but his videos are well worth watching.

Yes you will see my comment.

https://youtu.be/qwuSBJFa5uM

Fusion_power · March 19, 2017

I used C clamps to clamp the rails to the saw table and then gently tapped them into position first tapping to the exact position left/right, then using the 2 27/32 wooden pieces to get it exactly the right height on both ends. I then tightened down the C clamps and used a pencil to mark the holes on the cast iron table top. A punch to the center and then a 1/8 drill for a pilot hole followed by the 3/8 drill bit for the main bore completed the holes. I like to have a bit of adjustment room so I then used the 3/8 drill bit to trim the hole making an oval out of the round hole. When I put the bolts through and tightened them, a tiny tap with a hammer moved the rail into the right position after which I tightened and torqued the bolts.

The back rail does not support the fence. It supports the side table. It has to be aligned so the saw guard can move as the blade angle is adjusted. I set the fence up so that when the blade is vertical running 90 degree cuts, the blade guard is 1/16 inch from the rail edge. When the blade is run up to maximum 45 degree cuts, the guard is 1/4 inch from the rail edge. Look at the notch on the back rail and this will make sense.

Worth1 · March 19, 2017

I saw the notch when I was looking at it earlier.
I personally dont use a saw guard the one I had came down and hit the blade and sent sharp plastic shrapnel all over the place including my face.
I had safety glasses on as always.

Worth

Fusion_power · March 24, 2017

I was using the new saw yesterday and attempted a deep cut through a board nearly 4 inches thick. The new saw would not cut as deep as my old Craftsman saw with the same blade. I recognized this problem because I have seen it before. The pulley on the arbor spindle was not pushed far enough onto the shaft leaving the edge of the pulley hitting the side of the saw. I took a few minutes today to loosen the hex screw and push the pulley about 1/8 of an inch further onto the shaft which fixed the problem. I would like to fit it with cast iron pulleys like my old saw or perhaps put step pulleys on so I can change the blade speed as per previous posts.

Worth1 · March 24, 2017

Darrel you are a smart guy you know how to find and get the pulleys and the type of belts you need.
You dont have to continue using the old V belts that they made back then.
Go to the ones notched on the inside or the flat micro groove belts.

I could make pulleys all day long I just dont have the broaches or arbor press to make the inside key ways.

Yesterday it took some time but I managed to set my top slide at an angle to cut a taper of .0625 every inch or .750 every 12 inches.

March 14, 2017	#199
dmforcier Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 3,825	Pics. We want pics. __________________ Stupidity got us into this mess. Why can't it get us out? - Will Rogers

March 14, 2017	#196
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	There is nothing at all wrong with it Worth. It even includes a side table. I would rate it in very good condition. Original price with the side table was about $400. I would have paid $180 for the fence and rails, but went to $225 since he had the side table.

March 14, 2017	#197
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Yet another leg pulling. Worth

March 14, 2017	#198
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	Yes Worth, only the best for you, including in the leg pulling department. Original Biesemeyer fences are arguably the best that have ever been made. The modern Delta imported fences with the Biesemeyer name are not cut from the same quality cloth. Finding an original Biesemeyer U.S. made fence in excellent condition with side table for $225 will turn a plow horse table saw into a race horse cabinet grade machine.

March 16, 2017	#201
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	Be patient. I have to work all week long and won't get to put it on the saw until this weekend. I will take pictures and show you the final result.

March 16, 2017	#202
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	I managed an hour working on the table saw today. I got the front and back rails measured and fitted in a way that will work. The installation instructions I found on the web describe how it should fit but are geared for another type saw. I had to make a few changes to get it to fit a Craftsman. It is simple to fit onto the saw, but requires very accurate measurements to get the fence to slide properly. If anyone is interested, here are the issues so far. When I aligned the back rail as per the instructions, the notch at the rear does not align with the blade guard. I checked the fit very carefully and decided that it makes sense to move the rails about 3 inches to the side. The side effect of doing this is that the square tube with the ruler will be offset the same distance. I can fix this either by moving the ruler or by re-drilling 7 holes in the square tube and threading the holes to attach to the front rail. Because of the way my saw is made, I can only use 2 of the factory holes on each rail to attach to the saw. The holes are drilled for 3/8 inch bolts but the instructions also suggest drilling 1/4 inch holes and using smaller hardware if necessary. I prefer to use 3/8 bolts and avoid the hassle of drilling more than necessary.

March 17, 2017	#203
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	I mounted the front rail on the saw today and got the fence preliminarily aligned. Drilling the holes was relatively easy but definitely a result of measure 10 times before drilling once. The fence rides on a couple of nylon pads that are attached to the bottom by being forced into a pair of holes drilled into the metal. These pads were not properly aligned for my saw so I used a couple of hive tools to pry one of the pads out then drilled a pair of holes and tapped the studs into the new location. The result is that the fence rides exactly where it should on the saw table. By being very careful, I got the fence to slide across the table surface with no dragging yet the clearance above the table is less than the thickness of a sheet of paper. The lock lever had a couple of places where the paint had been worn off. I removed it and sanded smooth, then re-painted with a fairly durable gray paint. I stopped work after doing this because the paint needs to dry before I do anything further on the fence. Tomorrow I will mount the back rail and then re-attach the side table. I am doing this work very slowly, carefully measuring and fitting to get the desired results. Mounting the front rail was done using a pair of wooden guides made to exactly 2 27/32 inches deep which is the correct depth per the installation guide.

March 18, 2017	#204
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	I had time to use the Biesemeyer fence today and made perfect cuts with a Freud 40 tooth LU86R010 blade. The blade is currently $42 on Amazon. "Freud LU86R010 10-Inch 40 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf General Purpose Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating" First impressions are that it is very easy to align, adjustments are easily made, and it slides across the table saw a lot easier than my old Craftsman fence. I still have to fix the measuring strip and attach the side table. It needs a good coat of wax to protect the surface and make moving the fence easier.

March 19, 2017	#205
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	I am interested and reading everything at least times not once. I also looked up the instructions on how to mount the fence on a Unisaw. There are several almost fool proof ways to get where your holes need to be without measuring. One is called transfer punches. Another is to use a long template made from painters tape or cardboard and a ball peen hammer. Get the stuff lined up where you want it and make the first hole with the ball end of the hammer put a bolt in it and make the other hole the same way. I have used the last method to make huge gaskets for pump housings and inspection covers on giant industrial engines. Cut the whole gasket out with a ball peen hammer.

March 19, 2017	#206
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Counter Bore. Not not the presidential debates. This is where you want a bolt to be flush with the surface of a hole. Or maybe you need to drill a flat bottomed hole for a spring to fit in or any other reason. I did this yesterday and it worked great. Sadly I had never thought of it before. Here I will post a link to the guy I learned it from on YouTube. No he isn't one of the top guys but his videos are well worth watching. Yes you will see my comment. https://youtu.be/qwuSBJFa5uM

March 19, 2017	#207
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	I used C clamps to clamp the rails to the saw table and then gently tapped them into position first tapping to the exact position left/right, then using the 2 27/32 wooden pieces to get it exactly the right height on both ends. I then tightened down the C clamps and used a pencil to mark the holes on the cast iron table top. A punch to the center and then a 1/8 drill for a pilot hole followed by the 3/8 drill bit for the main bore completed the holes. I like to have a bit of adjustment room so I then used the 3/8 drill bit to trim the hole making an oval out of the round hole. When I put the bolts through and tightened them, a tiny tap with a hammer moved the rail into the right position after which I tightened and torqued the bolts. The back rail does not support the fence. It supports the side table. It has to be aligned so the saw guard can move as the blade angle is adjusted. I set the fence up so that when the blade is vertical running 90 degree cuts, the blade guard is 1/16 inch from the rail edge. When the blade is run up to maximum 45 degree cuts, the guard is 1/4 inch from the rail edge. Look at the notch on the back rail and this will make sense.

March 19, 2017	#208
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	I saw the notch when I was looking at it earlier. I personally dont use a saw guard the one I had came down and hit the blade and sent sharp plastic shrapnel all over the place including my face. I had safety glasses on as always. Worth

March 24, 2017	#209
Fusion_power Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 2,250	I was using the new saw yesterday and attempted a deep cut through a board nearly 4 inches thick. The new saw would not cut as deep as my old Craftsman saw with the same blade. I recognized this problem because I have seen it before. The pulley on the arbor spindle was not pushed far enough onto the shaft leaving the edge of the pulley hitting the side of the saw. I took a few minutes today to loosen the hex screw and push the pulley about 1/8 of an inch further onto the shaft which fixed the problem. I would like to fit it with cast iron pulleys like my old saw or perhaps put step pulleys on so I can change the blade speed as per previous posts.

March 24, 2017	#210
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Darrel you are a smart guy you know how to find and get the pulleys and the type of belts you need. You dont have to continue using the old V belts that they made back then. Go to the ones notched on the inside or the flat micro groove belts. I could make pulleys all day long I just dont have the broaches or arbor press to make the inside key ways. Yesterday it took some time but I managed to set my top slide at an angle to cut a taper of .0625 every inch or .750 every 12 inches.