December 9, 2016 | #2341 |
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Here's a link to a post by Carolyn Phillips about growing 8 single vine Brandywines in each earthbox. Maybe that would be better than 6 double vine.
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?p=341028 Ginny Last edited by Fiishergurl; December 9, 2016 at 08:34 AM. |
December 9, 2016 | #2342 | |
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December 10, 2016 | #2343 | |
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She's such a good tester... :-) it will be fun and interesting to see her results. Ginny |
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December 10, 2016 | #2344 |
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Looking for ideas for variety as I need to start seeds soon. Nothing HUGE, no dwarfs. Preferably disease resistant. Something (if experiment works) that I want the tomatoes or can give away easily.
Here's some that I thought of from growing experience: 1. Stump of the World - Growing now, 2 plants in unfavorable conditions, producing a lot (for me) of fruit. Not too big. Negative - it is considered a late variety. 2. NAR - Grew these in the past, plants not huge, tasted good 3. Cosmonaut Volkov - growing now in Root Pouch. Evenly productive, plant not huge. I grew these before because I had saved seeds but don't remember it although it gets great reviews. 4. Momotaro - I have 2 going now, one in a root pouch; the other in a black container. The one in the black container has fallen so many times with the fruit knocked off but still is a huge producer. Perfect fruit. Both are Wild and Wooly as Ginny would describe. Neither plant is tall huge. Both very bushy but that is my fault. (Choosing this one would be a long shot). 5. LBB (Large Barred Boar) - Grown several times - fits the criteria. 6. Big Beef - has best disease resistance, probably a bigger plant. --- Your ideas or please shoot mine down. |
December 10, 2016 | #2345 |
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Crnkovic Yugoslavian was the most efficient plant in terms of water usage and high fruit to foliage ratios in my garden. These are traits which would seem beneficial when reducing the number of stems, while increasing the density of plantings.
From reading, a couple of other plants that would also show these traits of smaller diameter vines, medium foliage, and high output would be Eva Purple Ball and Bulgarian #7. |
December 10, 2016 | #2346 | |
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December 10, 2016 | #2347 | |
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How was the taste of Crnkovic Yugoslavian? Did you by chance save seeds? I would need 10-12 seeds. IIRC, you had great success growing Cosmonaut Volkov in the summer, right? Do you think CY would be better for the experiment than CV? --- Finally, while you are here, last summer when your plants were loaded with good size tomatoes, did you keep having continuous fruit set? or did it stall (less blossoms and even less of those blossoms being set)? Thanks for your advice. |
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December 11, 2016 | #2348 | |
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I was too busy at work last week and just catching up on reading now. So many great ideas and experiments. Thanks for sharing.
__________________
Ella God comes along and says, "I think I'm going to create THE tomato!” |
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December 11, 2016 | #2349 | |
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Thanks, Larry |
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December 11, 2016 | #2350 |
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Barb
Crnkovic Yugoslavian is exquisite, bright and sweet with whang. I do have seeds and be glad to share, PM me your address. This will be my main tomato this year and will plant 4 or 5 in a garden of 20 plants. Cosmonaut Volkov's plant structure is more like Big Beef or Better Boy, thicker stalks and heavier foliage. Not a deal breaker, just thirstier and more pruning. A huge producer and good full bodied red tomato taste, it's just not a standout for me and won't be returning. I had good clusters forming on all plants early, then when we hit +88F for 3 weeks they really slowed down, some stopped. As it cooled back down, they started up again, but none were forming clusters and setting fruit as well as before. Some diminishment would seem certain for the fact we're getting less sun late-season to push growth, which could be less a factor for AKMark with all those hours of daylight. I can feel what you're saying about the plants possibly being helped by more nutrient at this stage, and I think you're absolutely right if it's not hi-temp related. |
December 11, 2016 | #2351 |
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Ricky - I sent you a PM - but only if you saved seeds, I don't want to take your purchased seeds for an experiment. The plant sounds wonderful.
Also thanks for your comments on Cosmonaut Volkov - no wonder why I don't remember it; it wasn't memorable to me either. Ella / Larry - I took cuttings sometime in November and planted them; they all have fruit set with small plants. I probably have 6-7 plants from cuttings now. I will get pictures. Two of my cuttings went into an EB with mix I made from Peat Moss/Perlite/dolomite/ (instead of ProMix). This EB was fed only with the Masterblend formula from day 1. I also did the cover the same way as the link Marsha sent. The other cuttings went into a mix of reused solarized Promix with my homemade mix. I don't see a difference at all with the plants from my homemade mix and Promix. I did have DH pick me up 2 bales of Promix though. Just felt I didn't have much effort involved with the cuttings so no big loss. |
December 12, 2016 | #2352 | |
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What i was wondering is if I could get a cutting from a very late fall plant into a small pot and keep it alive but not growing rapidly, not flowering and certainly not setting tomatoes, but to use as a transplant, much as if I had started it from seed in the house in late December. Around the first of February if the weather forecast looks good, some of these transplants from cuttings could be started in the garden early. Larry |
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December 12, 2016 | #2353 | |
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To delay even further, you could always wait awhile before transplanting into a pot and then let the plant get rootbound. |
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December 13, 2016 | #2354 | |
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I think you are right letting a transplant get root bound can be used as a strategy. In late October I transplanted a number of Broccoli plants into a RB that had become available. I had transplants which as usual were about 6 weeks old but I also had more transplants which were close to 14 weeks old. They were all in 3 1/2 cups. The 14 week old plants were approximately the same size as the 6 week old plants. I didn't try to reduce the root binding when I transplanted any of them. I just dropped them in the hole. I thought the older plants might out perform the younger plants, but not so. They all performed much the same and now are starting to head. Thanks for your feedback, Larry |
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December 13, 2016 | #2355 |
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Oh yeah good idea.
Larry I think you asked about topping the plants. Here are some photos of the suckers growing after I topped a couple of my plants a week or so ago. They are putting out new sucker growth everywhere (both are indeterminate plants). The old stalks were not setting flowers much. Hoping that getting rid of all the dead blossoms plus the new growth will kick start the plant into setting again. Ginny |
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