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Old January 10, 2017   #2491
Bio-Ag-Guy
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Originally Posted by Zone9b View Post
That’s some impressive work to your soil. So, I’m guessing you actually transplant into the mulch?
I used to grow Packman Broccoli variety, I liked the fact that it was early, but it didn’t seem hold well in the garden for me. The beads were large and they popped open yellow quickly, at least that was my experience. Castle Dome is also 50 days to maturity, seems to hold better in the garden, the beads appear to be small and it tastes good both raw and cooked. Plus the florets hold together when I cook them, i.e. it doesn’t fall apart easily. I may try a bit of Packman again sometime, to make sure my memories are valid or not.
Larry
I just rake the mulch back, plant, then rake it back again. I keep it about 3 to 4 inches deep now.
It's good to know that Castle Dome is performing better for you than the Packman, I think I already
ordered some. I hadn't noticed the stuff you were describing, but I have only been planting one crop per season. I guess I JUST GOT LUCKY on the timing of it. You are making this CD sound so good I may be tempted to plant another crop this year.
Are you direct seeding?
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Old January 10, 2017   #2492
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I just rake the mulch back, plant, then rake it back again. I keep it about 3 to 4 inches deep now.
It's good to know that Castle Dome is performing better for you than the Packman, I think I already
ordered some. I hadn't noticed the stuff you were describing, but I have only been planting one crop per season. I guess I JUST GOT LUCKY on the timing of it. You are making this CD sound so good I may be tempted to plant another crop this year.
Are you direct seeding?
Another variety that I would like to try sometime is Coronado Crown with 59 dtm.
No I don’t direct seed any of the Broccoli, Kale, Brussel Sprouts or Cauliflower. I seed Broccoli in 3 ½” x 3 ½” x 3 ½” cups. I grow the seeds in 100% compost and recently I don’t bother to fertilize the small plants and they grow to the size I need simply on compost and water. Fertilizing them appears to be just a waste of time and money, especially when I have the time to grow them to the size needed. When I transplant them they usually have between 4 and 6 true leaves, rarely more. I have 2 Raised Beds which now contain Broccoli. The broccoli in the 1st RB will be harvested and ready for new plants within a month. The plants which will be transplanted into this RB are now ready to go and when the RB is available they will go in. The broccoli in the 2nd RB will head and should be harvested probably 2 months. The plants needed to be transplanted into this bed, assuming I decide to put them in, currently have 3 and 4 true leaves and will be ready to go into the RB as soon as it is available.
By having transplants of significant size reduces the time needed in the RB and reducing the time needed in a RB allows me to get more Broccoli out of a given RB.
The amount of Broccoli in a given RB could be substantially increased even further by adding a 2nd round of larger transplant cups. For example when the transplants in the 3 ½ inch cups were just of size and if they were transplanted into 5 inch cups I could have transplants into the RB at 7,8 and 9 true leaves and therefore cut the time in a RB by possibly 20 days. This would very significantly increase the amount of Broccoli a single RB could produce. However, if one was to do this with more than 1 RB the logistics would get a bit on the complex side, not to mention the number of plants in 5” pots one would be taking care of.
Larry
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Old January 10, 2017   #2493
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Larry - You have the broccoli set up like a production line. I've picked my 7th head so far; First one picked was on Christmas. Mine matures at different rates which is actually better for me. As soon as I pick one, I pull the plant out of the raised bed. The plan is if I get an area cleared, I will put the babies in.

I'm sowing the broccoli in the 6 pack cells. Not near your volume. At first I tried the 1 seed per cell, but I always threw in 3-4. And then when they get any true leaves, I separate them in their own cell. I haven't lost one yet doing it this way. The other day, I sowed about 6-10 per cell; we shall see how this works. BTW - my first CD broccoli (bought last year was from Park Seed) and this year I bought else where and it is pelleted (blue coating). I read that the pelleted seeds don't have the longevity of non-pelleted, so am using the blue ones up even though they are newer.

BIO-AG-GUY - Until last year (and 'meeting' Larry) I only grew PackMan. I use to give it LOTS of room and go for the shoots after the main head. I would get shoots until May. I like this way MUCH better.
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Old January 11, 2017   #2494
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Ginny, the heat of the Fatalii may be similar to the Datil but it is very different. The heat of the Datil tends to be in the back of the throat but the Fatalii hits the front of the mouth and wakes you up. I gave a friend Fatalii and Shi★★★★o plants last year and told her how to prepare the Shi★★★★o peppers. She and her son got them mixed up and used Fatalii to pan cook. She said they just about finished off a gallon of milk recovering. I make a hot sauce with them that has oranges and peaches that blend well with their citrus taste. I will check to see if I saved seeds if you want to try growing them.
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Old January 11, 2017   #2495
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Larry, you're the man with broccoli production. Where do you find the time?









Barb FL, I'm with you on not waiting on shoots. I have been just harvesting heads mainly because I'm not home very often. The rest of my family and the neighbors are enjoying the fruits of my labor though.
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Old January 12, 2017   #2496
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Two questions:
With vendor would you recommend to purchase seeds for Castle Dom?
How many weeks before transplanting should I start pepper seeds? They germinate for me either quickly or not at all. I grew peppers (sweet and hot) only few times and do not have much experience in it.

Thank you, all.

Great recommendations, btw. I am learning bunch from this thread.
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Old January 12, 2017   #2497
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Ella I start pepper seeds 8 weeks before transplant, and tomato seeds 6 weeks before. I am going to start dwarf tomatoes with the peppers from now on, they are usually late to produce.
I am not that good at growing adult peppers, but getting them to the transplant stage I do very well.
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Old January 12, 2017   #2498
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Ella - RE: Castle Dome broccoli seeds - I don't think it matters which vendor you choose because they are hybrids. I bought my first pack from Park Seed last year and the 2nd pack that was pelleted from MorganCountySeeds.com where I bought the Masterblend. Unless you need LOTS, I can send you the rest in my packet. I highly recommend Larry's method of planting - plus you need much less space. Let me know.

BTW - I've had one of your cucumber plants going for a couple of months now.

Ginger - I have no idea why you are not successful with adult peppers. Too wet?
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Old January 12, 2017   #2499
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Barb, I think I will be better at them from now on. I think they have been getting mites, new growth happened quickly and looks very good after I sprayed them for mites. If you want, you can call me Marsha.
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Old January 12, 2017   #2500
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Barb, I think I will be better at them from now on. I think they have been getting mites, new growth happened quickly and looks very good after I sprayed them for mites. If you want, you can call me Marsha.
Why do I keep doing that?
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Old January 12, 2017   #2501
Barb_FL
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Default MITEs - Recommendations needs

Marsha - Speaking of mites - I received the new Permethrin; smell is way less offensive than the organic Bonide Pyrethrin (which smells like gasoline).

I checked my new spring plants with my cheapo magnifier/microscope and the dwarfs had RSM.

The Matsu Express plants start off very healthy seedlings with thick stems and then don't look good. I was thinking the sun was too strong, but it only happens when they get large enough for transplant.

I also checked some good looking seedlings leaves and they were full of eggs?? and a RSM here and there.

They could have been transferred when I brought all my seedlings inside on those 2 cold nights.

So far everything I looked at under the lens has had bug / egg activity.

----
I sprayed these seedlings Monday with the Pyrethrin and was thinking could I just make a couple of gallons of solution and dunk the entire plant? This would ensure that all surfaces get covered.

---
On my EB on the East Side, I stripped all leaves from a few plants that had green stems. I've sprayed twice so far; with the last time using the synthetic stuff.

Have your plants recovered from mites / treatment? Setting fruit again?

Thanks again for all your help.

Last edited by Barb_FL; January 12, 2017 at 12:02 PM.
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Old January 12, 2017   #2502
Zone9b
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efisakov View Post
Two questions:
With vendor would you recommend to purchase seeds for Castle Dom?
How many weeks before transplanting should I start pepper seeds? They germinate for me either quickly or not at all. I grew peppers (sweet and hot) only few times and do not have much experience in it.
Thank you, all.
Great recommendations, btw. I am learning bunch from this thread.
I've ordered Castle Dome from Earl May several times. So far, they have not charged me for shipping. But there are quite a few other fine vendors also, who have Castle Dome seeds and also appear to have good pricing. I may consider Stokes next season. Stokes, Harris, Osborne and others become very attractive when ordering 1000 seeds or more.
Larry

Last edited by Zone9b; January 12, 2017 at 02:59 PM.
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Old January 12, 2017   #2503
efisakov
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Thank you, all. I will reread as I get home.
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Old January 17, 2017   #2504
Zone9b
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Decent head of Castle Dome Broccoli. 6 ½” diameter, nicely domed head, 23 oz, and good color. The plants in my third crop of Broccoli in the same RB are mostly heading now at 25 days from transplant. I should be able to start harvesting somewhere between 34 – 38 days from transplant.
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Old January 17, 2017   #2505
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Nice!
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