Dense Planting Illustrated - WARNING - Pic Heavy! Latest video 3/17 - transplanting - Page 17

Mark0820 · December 22, 2010

Wow! These videos are great. It completely changed my perspective on starting from seed and transplanting. I'm just a small backyard gardener, but this approach will still save me time. I usually double transplant tomato seedlings (first to a 2 inch pot, then to a 4 inch pot). I like the idea of going straight to a 4 inch pot. I also baby my plants under the grow lights too much until it gets warm outside (and probably water them too often). My seedlings will go outside much earlier this year.

**nctomatoman** · February 20, 2011

Hi there, just checked in to this thread...to answer a few questions on this page -

the transplanted beets were a great success - perfect beets perfectly spaced!

No difference in round or square pots - whatever I can get from the farm supply place - though I am thinking of using the thin plastic 3 inch squares in sheets of 18, so I can fit more into the mesh basket trays. The depth is about 4 inches (am away for the weekend, so just going on memory).

Glad people are getting use out of the vids!

recruiterg · February 20, 2011

Craig, I have a flat of peppers where many of the cells have seedlings that are about 1 inch tall. However, several cells have not sprouted at all yet. I am wondering if I should keep the plastic on in the hope the the last remaining cells germinate, or should I take the plastic off, get the good plants under grow lights, and re-plant the slow pokes?

**nctomatoman** · February 20, 2011

Some peppers (and eggplant) can be real slowpokes. Once the majority of the cells have life, that is when I toss the plastic and get them under lights - if you keep the non=growing cells moist, often they will show - especially once the flats can get into some real sunlight. The other possibility is to cut squares or strips of saran wrap to fit over the non-germinating cells - that way you can uncover the flat and get good air circulation, and keep moisture in the ones that haven't germinated yet.

Jackster · February 25, 2011

The peppers/eggplants/tomatoes you grow in your driveway in pots - what size pots/growbags are you using? Is the yield comparable to what you get in the garden? re: the June 11th update video.

**nctomatoman** · February 25, 2011

For eggplants, 5 gallon work great. For peppers, 5 gallon for sweets, 1 gallon or larger for hots. Yields for eggplant and peppers far surpasses garden grown plants for me - I think it is because they love hot roots.

The Dwarf tomatoes do fine in 5 gallon, would of course yield more in larger pots. For Indeterminate tomatoes, 10 gallon or more is recommended. Yields are comparable in a typical season - last year nothing did well anywhere due to excessive heat, consistently.

huntoften · February 25, 2011

I agree Craig...peppers and eggplant in containers far outperform those in the ground. The peppers also over-winter in the house very well.

February 27, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by nctomatoman

This is a bit rough but works well enough - we may do a retake, but until then... snip

I like your style, the simplicity.

NCTomatoMan...you the man.

Where do you obtain your seed containers?

**nctomatoman** · February 27, 2011

I get the plug flats from Johnnys, and the 4 inch plastic pots from a local garden supply center - they are made by the Kord company (that's what the box says). I think this year I am moving to the sheets of 18 3 inch square pots to save a bit on planting mix and allow 3 more pots in the basket trays I use. Plus, they are much less expensive than the individual plastic pots.

February 27, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by nctomatoman

I get the plug flats from Johnnys, and the 4 inch plastic pots from a local garden supply center - they are made by the Kord company (that's what the box says). I think this year I am moving to the sheets of 18 3 inch square pots to save a bit on planting mix and allow 3 more pots in the basket trays I use. Plus, they are much less expensive than the individual plastic pots.

Thanks. And I was also wondering where you get your seed vials [to store the seed in]: the ones with all your seed in them in the first video.

**nctomatoman** · February 27, 2011

Ah - seed vials - I get the plastic vials with the snap on tops from E D Luce - cost isn't too bad.

February 27, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by nctomatoman

Ah - seed vials - I get the plastic vials with the snap on tops from E D Luce - cost isn't too bad.

I found them--7 dram snap cap. Thanks

And the 50 cell flats from Johnny's

And the Metro Mix in your first video [I've got Pro-Mix BX but I would like to try your method, with the same products you use] I'm in the experimental stage(s) of Mater-Fever. I'm all over the map until I find what's right for me. You are a big help and I am grateful.

I like your Chocolate Labs in your avatar. I have an English Black Lab.

Plantersville · December 28, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by nctomatoman

Ah - seed vials - I get the plastic vials with the snap on tops from E D Luce - cost isn't too bad.

I have found my empty pill containers work wonders for seed storage. I quit throwing them away years ago...

kymaterjuice · February 28, 2011

nctomatoman, when you plant your seeds , pot up, and transplant to final resting place, do you go by any zodiac / moon signs from the almanac? I usually do , but was wondering what you did and if you thought it made any difference to you.

**nctomatoman** · February 28, 2011

Hey KY - no, I don't really do any of that....I just do what I do when I have the time to do it and the weather is cooperating!

February 20, 2011	#2
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	Hi there, just checked in to this thread...to answer a few questions on this page - the transplanted beets were a great success - perfect beets perfectly spaced! No difference in round or square pots - whatever I can get from the farm supply place - though I am thinking of using the thin plastic 3 inch squares in sheets of 18, so I can fit more into the mesh basket trays. The depth is about 4 inches (am away for the weekend, so just going on memory). Glad people are getting use out of the vids! __________________ Craig

February 20, 2011	#4
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	Some peppers (and eggplant) can be real slowpokes. Once the majority of the cells have life, that is when I toss the plastic and get them under lights - if you keep the non=growing cells moist, often they will show - especially once the flats can get into some real sunlight. The other possibility is to cut squares or strips of saran wrap to fit over the non-germinating cells - that way you can uncover the flat and get good air circulation, and keep moisture in the ones that haven't germinated yet. __________________ Craig

February 25, 2011	#6
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	For eggplants, 5 gallon work great. For peppers, 5 gallon for sweets, 1 gallon or larger for hots. Yields for eggplant and peppers far surpasses garden grown plants for me - I think it is because they love hot roots. The Dwarf tomatoes do fine in 5 gallon, would of course yield more in larger pots. For Indeterminate tomatoes, 10 gallon or more is recommended. Yields are comparable in a typical season - last year nothing did well anywhere due to excessive heat, consistently. __________________ Craig

February 25, 2011	#7
huntoften Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kansas CIty Posts: 560	I agree Craig...peppers and eggplant in containers far outperform those in the ground. The peppers also over-winter in the house very well. __________________ Kansas City, Missouri Zone 5b/6a

February 27, 2011	#9
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	I get the plug flats from Johnnys, and the 4 inch plastic pots from a local garden supply center - they are made by the Kord company (that's what the box says). I think this year I am moving to the sheets of 18 3 inch square pots to save a bit on planting mix and allow 3 more pots in the basket trays I use. Plus, they are much less expensive than the individual plastic pots. __________________ Craig

December 22, 2010	#1
Mark0820 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 907	Wow! These videos are great. It completely changed my perspective on starting from seed and transplanting. I'm just a small backyard gardener, but this approach will still save me time. I usually double transplant tomato seedlings (first to a 2 inch pot, then to a 4 inch pot). I like the idea of going straight to a 4 inch pot. I also baby my plants under the grow lights too much until it gets warm outside (and probably water them too often). My seedlings will go outside much earlier this year.

February 20, 2011	#3
recruiterg Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4) Posts: 945	Craig, I have a flat of peppers where many of the cells have seedlings that are about 1 inch tall. However, several cells have not sprouted at all yet. I am wondering if I should keep the plastic on in the hope the the last remaining cells germinate, or should I take the plastic off, get the good plants under grow lights, and re-plant the slow pokes?

February 25, 2011	#5
Jackster Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: CT Posts: 27	The peppers/eggplants/tomatoes you grow in your driveway in pots - what size pots/growbags are you using? Is the yield comparable to what you get in the garden? re: the June 11th update video.

February 28, 2011	#14
kymaterjuice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Kentucky Posts: 37	nctomatoman, when you plant your seeds , pot up, and transplant to final resting place, do you go by any zodiac / moon signs from the almanac? I usually do , but was wondering what you did and if you thought it made any difference to you.