The New EarthTainer III "Convertible" Guide Now Available - Page 18

Jaysan · June 12, 2014

Ray I was wondering if you had ever tried diatomaceous earth as a perlite substitute.

After reading some of the success stories some were having starting seeds in it I was wondering if it might work. I can get large bags locally and at a lot more cost effective price than what I can find perlite. Takes 8 bucks in just perlite to do one container with miracle gro, pine fines, and perlite, 3-2-2 ratio.

The DE seems to have a lot of the same qualities as perlite.

rnewste · June 12, 2014

Please give the DE at try and let us know if it works for you. My only concern is that the smaller particle size may not give you the aeration which perlite does.

Raybo

Jaysan · June 12, 2014

Well I did a search and found that I could order perlite from Home Depot in larger amounts that make it a lot more cost effective than buying it in 8 quart bags and the shipping to the store is free. I like to stick with what works if it is available.

KenNashua · February 7, 2015

So I had real issues with family members reliably watering the tomatoes last year and in the peak of summer they go dry fast. There's only so many hours in the day by the time I get home (watering in the dark is not fun). I was wondering about adapting the same system used by Alaska Grow buckets http://www.alaskagrowbuckets.com/ala...-bucket-guide/

Seems way cheaper than using the AWS system? Other ideas?

elight · February 7, 2015

Hi Ken, this is the first time I've seen the Alaska grow bucket system, but it is extremely similar to a system that I've detailed in other posts over the past few years. The difference is that the Alaska system needs only 1 bucket (and thus maxes out probably at 4 gallons of media) and requires direct contact between the water and the bottom of the soil. You must be sure that all buckets are exactly level with one another and set the float valve perfectly. After figuring out the proper float valve level, I would mark the corresponding water level on the float valve reservoir and check in regularly as in my experience the valve can slip over time.

I think that this system is a great option for people who have small gardens and no outdoor water source (I'm my case, I grew on an apartment patio). I used a large trash can as a main reservoir and filled it up once a week either one 5-gallon bucket at a time from the bathtub or by rigging a garden hose to the kitchen faucet.

Where there's a will there's a way!

mouka_f_slouka · March 19, 2015

Wow!
I think this is a proof that ingenuity beats anything else.
I will nominate you for an award in the growing vegetables festival.

Tchamp77 · April 20, 2015

Dear Raybo,
Long-time fan and user of Earth Tainers. I have a question on the covering the top of the tainers with plastic. I think this is described in the instructions as a way to prevent moisture from escaping. I was wondering if you've ever tried a loose mulch instead - or even weed block fabric - as a trade-off, given the importance of getting air to the root systems. I mean, you talk a lot about the loose mix allowing the root system to breathe, yet, we're putting a plastic barrier right over the top, so it would seem a bit contradictory. Thoughts?
Thanks
Tom C.

rnewste · April 20, 2015

Tom C.

I fully understand your logic.

While at the same time, you want to get air to the roots - you also want to curtail moisture evaporation. Even with the plastic moisture barrier, sufficient air does get to the root system - I guess it is all a mater of priorities - keeping the roots moist trumps air exposure.

The porous nature of the Perlite and air gaps between the Microbark will provide sufficient air exposure for the roots - that is why I never recommend people putting sand in their container mix.

Raybo

JamesL · April 20, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaysan

Ray I was wondering if you had ever tried diatomaceous earth as a perlite substitute.

After reading some of the success stories some were having starting seeds in it I was wondering if it might work. I can get large bags locally and at a lot more cost effective price than what I can find perlite. Takes 8 bucks in just perlite to do one container with miracle gro, pine fines, and perlite, 3-2-2 ratio.

The DE seems to have a lot of the same qualities as perlite.

Jaysan,
Did you ever try the DE in the mix?

JamesL · April 20, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tchamp77

Dear Raybo,
Long-time fan and user of Earth Tainers. I have a question on the covering the top of the tainers with plastic. I think this is described in the instructions as a way to prevent moisture from escaping. I was wondering if you've ever tried a loose mulch instead - or even weed block fabric - as a trade-off, given the importance of getting air to the root systems. I mean, you talk a lot about the loose mix allowing the root system to breathe, yet, we're putting a plastic barrier right over the top, so it would seem a bit contradictory. Thoughts?
Thanks
Tom C.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnewste

Tom C.

I fully understand your logic.

While at the same time, you want to get air to the roots - you also want to curtail moisture evaporation. Even with the plastic moisture barrier, sufficient air does get to the root system - I guess it is all a mater of priorities - keeping the roots moist trumps air exposure.

The porous nature of the Perlite and air gaps between the Microbark will provide sufficient air exposure for the roots - that is why I never recommend people putting sand in their container mix.

Raybo

For me, here on Long Island, the covers provide the equally important task of keeping excess moisture - rain - out.....

Jaysan · April 20, 2015

Sorry. Never did. Sticking with perlite. Was able to get two LARGE bags at a local greenhouse.

JamesL · April 20, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaysan

Sorry. Never did. Sticking with perlite. Was able to get two LARGE bags at a local greenhouse.

Oh well. If I do it I will post back here. One 'tainer might be worth the experiment. I love DE as a stand alone media, but combined with peat in an Earthtainer - Concerned it will act more like vermiculite and retain too much water. Only one way to find out I guess....

rnewste · April 20, 2015

I think using DE intead of Perlite would be counterproductive. While fine for seedling propagation, in a production EarthTainer would cause the mix to be too wet, as well as reduce air circulation. Strongly advise against it.

Raybo

JamesL · April 20, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnewste

I think using DE intead of Perlite would be counterproductive. While fine for seedling propagation, in a production EarthTainer would cause the mix to be too wet, as well as reduce air circulation. Strongly advise against it.

Raybo

Think you are right....

Delerium · April 20, 2015

I disagree. DE actually makes the soil medium dry up way faster. Especially outdoors. I have stopped using it for that reason alone. Maybe using DE in the half way point of the container might help if wicking issues are a problem.

April 20, 2015	#262
Tchamp77 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2014 Location: NJ Posts: 5	Moisture buffer vs. providing room to breathe Dear Raybo, Long-time fan and user of Earth Tainers. I have a question on the covering the top of the tainers with plastic. I think this is described in the instructions as a way to prevent moisture from escaping. I was wondering if you've ever tried a loose mulch instead - or even weed block fabric - as a trade-off, given the importance of getting air to the root systems. I mean, you talk a lot about the loose mix allowing the root system to breathe, yet, we're putting a plastic barrier right over the top, so it would seem a bit contradictory. Thoughts? Thanks Tom C.

June 12, 2014	#256
Jaysan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 167	Ray I was wondering if you had ever tried diatomaceous earth as a perlite substitute. After reading some of the success stories some were having starting seeds in it I was wondering if it might work. I can get large bags locally and at a lot more cost effective price than what I can find perlite. Takes 8 bucks in just perlite to do one container with miracle gro, pine fines, and perlite, 3-2-2 ratio. The DE seems to have a lot of the same qualities as perlite.

June 12, 2014	#257
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Please give the DE at try and let us know if it works for you. My only concern is that the smaller particle size may not give you the aeration which perlite does. Raybo

June 12, 2014	#258
Jaysan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 167	Well I did a search and found that I could order perlite from Home Depot in larger amounts that make it a lot more cost effective than buying it in 8 quart bags and the shipping to the store is free. I like to stick with what works if it is available.

February 7, 2015	#259
KenNashua Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 18	So I had real issues with family members reliably watering the tomatoes last year and in the peak of summer they go dry fast. There's only so many hours in the day by the time I get home (watering in the dark is not fun). I was wondering about adapting the same system used by Alaska Grow buckets http://www.alaskagrowbuckets.com/ala...-bucket-guide/ Seems way cheaper than using the AWS system? Other ideas?

February 7, 2015	#260
elight Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Allentown, PA Posts: 349	Hi Ken, this is the first time I've seen the Alaska grow bucket system, but it is extremely similar to a system that I've detailed in other posts over the past few years. The difference is that the Alaska system needs only 1 bucket (and thus maxes out probably at 4 gallons of media) and requires direct contact between the water and the bottom of the soil. You must be sure that all buckets are exactly level with one another and set the float valve perfectly. After figuring out the proper float valve level, I would mark the corresponding water level on the float valve reservoir and check in regularly as in my experience the valve can slip over time. I think that this system is a great option for people who have small gardens and no outdoor water source (I'm my case, I grew on an apartment patio). I used a large trash can as a main reservoir and filled it up once a week either one 5-gallon bucket at a time from the bathtub or by rigging a garden hose to the kitchen faucet. Where there's a will there's a way!

March 19, 2015	#261
mouka_f_slouka Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Chicago Posts: 115	Wow! I think this is a proof that ingenuity beats anything else. I will nominate you for an award in the growing vegetables festival.

April 20, 2015	#263
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Tom C. I fully understand your logic. While at the same time, you want to get air to the roots - you also want to curtail moisture evaporation. Even with the plastic moisture barrier, sufficient air does get to the root system - I guess it is all a mater of priorities - keeping the roots moist trumps air exposure. The porous nature of the Perlite and air gaps between the Microbark will provide sufficient air exposure for the roots - that is why I never recommend people putting sand in their container mix. Raybo

April 20, 2015	#266
Jaysan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 167	Sorry. Never did. Sticking with perlite. Was able to get two LARGE bags at a local greenhouse.

April 20, 2015	#268
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	I think using DE intead of Perlite would be counterproductive. While fine for seedling propagation, in a production EarthTainer would cause the mix to be too wet, as well as reduce air circulation. Strongly advise against it. Raybo

April 20, 2015	#270
Delerium Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: California Posts: 942	I disagree. DE actually makes the soil medium dry up way faster. Especially outdoors. I have stopped using it for that reason alone. Maybe using DE in the half way point of the container might help if wicking issues are a problem.