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#271 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I am still getting some fair tomatoes but with all the damage from whiteflies my fall tomatoes this year are performing poorly along with my fall cucumbers. I am starting to remove a lot of tomato plants that appear unhealthy and are not looking like they will result in much fruit if any. I need to clear a couple of beds for broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, lettuce, carrots, onions and spinach. I just planted a bed of mustard greens and turnips yesterday. I am hoping the whiteflies are thinning out enough to let them survive when they sprout. Bill |
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#272 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Indianapolis Area 46112
Posts: 857
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Bill, "I am hoping the whiteflies are thinning out enough to let them survive when they sprout." is that the bug that will eat a 1/2 of a plants foliage overnight, whether it be a flower, fern, pepper plant etc? Seems as if i can control them w/Neem but it is costly and every other night..........too much work - but it sure makes me mad to see the destruction!!
![]() Thanks Pete Last edited by tryno12; October 17, 2017 at 08:55 PM. Reason: incomplete |
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#273 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Since it is getting so many types of plants I would suspect those foliage caterpillars that show up every year and they can defoliate a plant if left unchecked. BT will work somewhat but it is slower and not as deadly on them as Sevin. If I was losing foliage like that I would go straight to the Sevin and see if that stops them but you do have a waiting time after using it. Bill |
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#274 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Sevin kills grasshoppers dead in their tracks.
Worth |
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#275 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Indianapolis Area 46112
Posts: 857
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Thanks Bill, I will look and see if i see any other bugs than the swarms of little white things - i have seen a few grasshoppers and a lot of slugs, i have considered Sevin as too harsh to use but i do use it on the Hostas for slugs Does Sevin harm bees?
Pete Last edited by tryno12; October 20, 2017 at 12:25 AM. Reason: incomplete |
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#276 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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WhiteFly can be detected by lifting the plant leaf and or shaking the plant. You will see adults fly away (white in color) and they are about 2X the size of a gnat. Nothing seems to kill them well. S
Unfortunately Seven will kill good and bad bugs including honey bees. http://homeguides.sfgate.com/homemad...ide-37740.html |
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#277 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Indianapolis Area 46112
Posts: 857
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I noticed yesterday a couple large grasshoppers - maybe a BB gun
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#278 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Indianapolis Area 46112
Posts: 857
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Thanks HH, i believe that is what i have observed in regards to White Flies
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#279 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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I hope everyone’s winter is nearing end. In Houston it’s been a nice spring mostly.
It’s my 2nd year gardening but still much to learn. I plan to use Bill’s Bleach Spray this year but had some questions? In pics are leaves from 4 plants pulled from bottom stems. First pic is leaf surface, second is underside of same leaf. 1. Should I prune all discoloring leaves prior to spraying or afterwards? 2. Do you recognize any as diseases or just mold/mildew and normal discoloration? 3. What is best spray schedule? Weekly? Bill or anyone with experience please help me out. Thanks |
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#280 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,148
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Obviously Bill is the person to answer this question, but I suggest that you spray weekly and after every rain. The bleach is not a preventative but rather it attacks the fungus that is growing on the plants. You should do a follow up spray with a fungicide within 24 hours of doing the bleach spray. Spraying should only be done in the early morning or early evening to avoid burning you foliage in the direct sun. It is suggested that you rotate by using a different fungicide every other week.
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~ Patti ~ |
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#281 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Huston I'm no disease expert but usually this early in the season Daconil applied weekly will help a great deal in stopping initial infections of many foliage diseases but it doesn't stop them all. I don't see any gray mold on those leaves which is the disease I use the bleach spray for the most often. It does look like you may have early blight and possibly something else so you might want to remove the foliage that is showing damage immediately.
I spray Daconil every week from the time my plants go outside to harden off until I start seeing some definite disease symptoms. At this point I will use the diluted bleach spray and then alternate using a copper spray then Daconil spray. If I see any gray mold or late blight symptoms then I use the bleach spray as soon as possible then follow up with a copper spray the next day. Two days after using the bleach spray it will be obvious what foliage needs removing because the diseased foliage will shrivel up and die. I do use the bleach spray at a slightly milder solution as a preventative on squash, cucumbers and melons because it works wonders at preventing or stopping the mildew diseases that those crops are prone to get sometimes. A good friend of mine uses the bleach spray as a preventative spray and doesn't use any other fungicides and he doesn't seem to have any more problems with foliage diseases than I do. I do use the bleach spray during periods of continuous thunderstorms and rain. I just go out between showers and spray with the bleach spray. It seems to make a big difference in the amount of disease that shows up on the plants after the rains stop. The reason I do this is because the preventive fungicides get washed off and the bleach spray will kill most bacteria and fungus that is starting to develop during the rainy times so that they don't get a good foothold on most of my plants. Another thing you can do that will help is to keep all the lower foliage removed so there is at least a foot from the ground to the first leaves. This helps prevent splash back when watering or during rainfall. It also helps to have a good heavy mulch under the plants. Pruning the plants to prevent foliage from becoming too dense is also helpful in our humid conditions. Down here it is important to keep a preventive fungicide on the plants so weekly spraying is necessary. I have had the best luck starting my season out with weekly spraying of Daconil. Later I will alternate a copper spray with Daconil. The bleach spray is used mainly once I see some disease symptoms that neither the Daconil or copper have prevented. You will have to experiment some and see what works for you and be ready to adapt to changing conditions. When frequent showers are a problem the copper spray may be better at times because it doesn't seem to wash off as easily; but if heavy rains are persistent then the bleach spray becomes the best alternative to use between those frequent rains. Bill |
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#282 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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Thanks MissS and Bill
Yesterday I pruned out all lower stems to about 1 ft from ground and added mulch to my garden boxes and pots. Then today I just finished spraying all with daconil 1 TSP per gallon of water. I also hit my green beans, cucumbers, and honey melons as I passed them. I will monitor and plan to spray in another 7-10 days. However I am wondering if I should work in a copper spray also and when I should start bleach schedule? |
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#283 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,148
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You may start the bleach spray the next week. First use the bleach spray (after reading the thread) then follow up with the copper. The next time you spray, use the bleach spray and follow up with the Daconil. Remove any dark foliage after spraying the bleach spray. Meaning, use the bleach spray every cycle and rotate your fungicide every other time.
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~ Patti ~ |
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#284 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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So are you saying to do bleach and copper back to back? Or a cycle schedule such as below.
Bleach 5 days Copper 5 days Bleach 5 days Daconil |
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#285 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Central Texas - Zone 8A
Posts: 196
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They're saying use copper/daconil 1x per week, alternation between copper and daconil each week. The bleach will kill any infected leafs, so what they're suggesting is to spray the bleach mix then come in the next day and use either your daconil or copper, whichever is up to bat that week.
Within a couple days after the bleach is sprayed the infected foliage will die off and you can cut that out. The bleach is NOT a preventative but will attack any infected foliage. You still would need to apply your preventative to stop the infection from attacking healthy foliage. I hope that clears the schedule up for you, I'm sure someone else can chime in. Here is an example: Daconil OR Copper Spray (PREVENTATIVES) alternating weeks 1x per week (will need to reapply after rain) If you get an infection like I see in your pics, spray bleach, and the following day apply your preventative. I got nailed last year with what looks like the same thing that is hitting you, which I think was early blight. It pretty much wiped me out, but I wasn't well versed in preventative and bleach spray. You need to really stay on your spray schedules if you're going to manage to pull off a long season. I didn't and I was done by June and restarting seeds. |
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