June 12, 2017 | #2851 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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Did you eat any pineapples yet? I'm just going to solarize a few of them that had all new mix this spring season; my reasons actually thinking as I type. 1. I used MasterBlend formula since early fall; the drain part of my boxes is very salty and nasty looking. This is the biggest reason. 2. We had the house painted in February and I need to get the pool deck painted. The deck is the best place to do the solarizing. 3. I want to have much fewer plants so starting over with mix and keeping the cost reasonable (my attempt at being cheap) will ensure that fewer plants will actually happen. For me, it's $15 per Earthbox just for ProMix. If I skip the loaf, then down to $10. I did skip the loaf this spring with new mix and saw absolutely no difference; probably b/c I used liquid fertz. If I refill with Lambert's Organic Mix (sold here at HD - About $15 for 3 Cubic Gallon loose) and I skip the loaf, can load an EB for $7.50 - If I include the loaf, then $10. Walmart sold this for a short time in the 1.5 C Gallon bags and I filled one EB (no loaf) and used it this spring. Very happy with it. 4. I had more nematode damage when pulling plants. In recent seasons, I had no nematode damage and also had none for the plants that I pulled after the fall. Was it b/c the plants were not elevated? or b/c when I mixed the MasterBlend in the 27 G container in the backyard , I sometimes got a little dirt (sand) in while scooping the bucket. (the dirt/sand was on the bottom of the pouring bucket - not much at all but could this make a difference?). On the EB that had Nematode damage, they also had those grassy weeds growing in the cover holes. Could weeds bring in nematodes? |
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June 13, 2017 | #2852 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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The water soluble ferts and unavoidable salt build-up takes a toll on potting mix and fabric pots. The pots crust up white with patches of green slime and much of the peat is broken or pulverized.
The probability of increased poundage would be enough for me to go fresh mix and pots, the peace of mind is icing. |
June 13, 2017 | #2853 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Barb, interesting about the salt buildup. I haven't looked to see if mine has it, but I don't see any on the outside.
Pineapples- yes, I have harvested 3 of the 6. I found that even picking them bright yellow and bent completely over, if I leave them on the counter for an additional week, until my whole kitchen smells like a pineapple and no green anywhere in the body, they are unbelievably sweet. I just picked the other 2 a couple of days ago, I want to try grilling them, allrecipes has a great simple marinade for them that I must try. My Kent has new growth over the mangoes too. Very weird, usually it doesn't get new growth until the season is over. I only have about 200 this year, but still plenty. As far as the EB with the nematodes, my guess is the yard guys kicked some dirt up onto the EB, which had nematodes in it, as well as weedy seeds. Mine do that, so now I resist the urge to hose it off, I dont want to rinse nematodes down into my EB. I think if I wait a few days the nematodes will die in the sun, then I can safely rinse the cover off. |
June 13, 2017 | #2854 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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Quote:
Once everything is pulled, I am going to Pressure wash the Root Pouches. Mine are beyond Gross. I always use some brand new ones for plants I think will be favorite and can't tell the difference between those and others used for many seasons. Initially, I just used the Longer Lasting more expensive brown ones but since have converted to the grey ones. I'm on 3 years with my earliest grey ones and they are still good. Will see after the pressure wash. I'm on the 5th year with the brown ones. Marsha - If you are not noticing salt buildup on the outside, I wouldn't worry about it. It looks like the water line of a toilet in a raunchy gas station bathroom back in the day. It's definitely obvious. Ricky and I fed the plants daily so that is probably the difference. |
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June 18, 2017 | #2855 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
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Quote:
I plant the seeds in 3 ½” square x 3 ½” high plastic pots. I try to get my transplants fairly mature before placing them in the RB. I like to plant the seeds 45 to 55 days before transplant. The transplants get to the stage which is often defined as root bound. For me this gets them to maximum maturity in a 3 ½” cup but without them attempting to head. They usually have 6 or 7 true leaves. I do not attempt to break up the roots before transplanting. I don’t find that breaking up the roots speeds things up. If I am not in too much of a hurry I add a bit of fertilizer at the bottom of the hole but I am unsure of how much this actually helps. Once the transplants are established and showing some growth (normally in approximately 7 to 10 days) I side dress with some 10-10-10 conventional fertilizer. I side dress with 10-10-10 again in 14 to 20 days, then a third time when I see the first plants starting to head. I am not at all sure this schedule is optimal, it is just what I do and it seems to work. I have never sprayed for insects or fungus. I haven’t had a problem or if I did to a small extent, I just ignored it. Maybe I have just been lucky. Also I water routinely with a hose. I used to water at the base of the plant but I gave up on that and just water from overhead. It’s easier. When one crop comes out I attempt to get the next transplants in the ground immediately, in an attempt to maximize the use of my RBs. I admit my methods are a bit on the crude side but they seem to work for me. Good Luck Larry |
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June 18, 2017 | #2856 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Excellent information and thank you very much. I don't see anything crude about your methods at all. In my experience most brassicas do better with overhead irrigation, and your results prove the effectiveness of your methods. What would you say your total weight of heads is per bed in a good year?
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June 18, 2017 | #2857 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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Jeremy, I followed Larry's method this past fall as well. I spaced mine 12" apart vs his 11 but that was only because I used the weed barrier cloth that had lines 12" apart running down it. My RB are 4'*12' (2 of these), 4'*8' so a total of 4'*32'.
I only recycled my beds twice vs Larry's 5 times (I think he had 5 harvests) I always started in deep cells and transplanted later as Larry did. I did this to save on watering. I watered from above too. I fertilized my bed with a combination of Plant Tone and Tomato Tone. The only thing different I did than Larry was initially as I picked a head, I replaced the plant with a seedling. Later on, I stopped doing this as it was hard b/c pulling it through the weed barrier. Also, later on I fertilized a few times with Neptune's Harvest Blend via the hose/sprayer. We both had lots of 2nd/3rd heads that the plants produced at the end of the season. Larry knows his stuff. I had 100 original heads and a significant # of 2nd/3rd heads. |
June 18, 2017 | #2858 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
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Quote:
My experience with say Packman is after the main head is cut then the plant would produce small side shoots. However, when I cut Castle Dome, even when I cut it fairly close to the soil, it produces new heads. Sometimes one of these heads will be close to as large as the original head. However, this normally doesn't apply to me because as soon as possible I pull all plants to immediately make room for a new set of broccoli transplants. Larry |
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June 18, 2017 | #2859 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
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Larry |
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June 18, 2017 | #2860 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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June 18, 2017 | #2861 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
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Larry |
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June 19, 2017 | #2862 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Port St Lucie, Florida
Posts: 180
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How tall does Sky reacher get? Is it sweet or tart?
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June 21, 2017 | #2863 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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Kay could you share the roasted Okra recipe? Okra is prolific here in Houston as well.
Hi Floridians.. I am going to monitor this thread because Houston is pretty much like North Florida when it comes to temperature challenges. I am actually planting several varieties created by UF. I am very interested in seeing some easy low cost ideas for shade covers? I have 8x1 ft boxes lining my fence (see pic). I am thinking I will clamp a 1/2 inch pvc (6 ft tall) to front or boxes and drape shade cloth across and anchor to my fence with grommet / hooks. I already own shade cloth and assume the PVC would be very low cost investment... |
June 21, 2017 | #2864 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 820
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Actually I think it was Marsha that had the roasted okra recipe. I made her version and really liked it. I did grow okra this year since I had a limited garden due to health issues and I don't remember her instructions. I am sure she will share when she sees your post.
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June 24, 2017 | #2865 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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Thanks kayrobbins. I hope Marsha sees and shares..
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