Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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January 11, 2021 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,292
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I always spray a 10% solution of bleach on the tomato cages both in the fall and spring since EB pathogens will live on metal and wood over the winter. I do not spray my soil since that will only kill the surface and pathogens go deeper into the soil.
I used to use fabric as a mulch base and it worked very well, but since I rearranged my garden layout every year I had to pull up, store and re-lay the fabric every year. The fabric only lasted a couple of years before replacement. That's why I went to paper and straw. Besides, I till it all in for extra organics. Garden sanitation is another solution and like Bill I remove all diseased leaves during the growing season and also all garden debris both during the year and at the end of the season.
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there's two things money can't buy; true love and home grown tomatoes. |
January 12, 2021 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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If you want to move the garden, do it only if the new place gets the same (or more) sun, especially morning sun. Debris left overwinter is only a secondary concern to the growing conditions in the case of these foliar diseases.
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January 12, 2021 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...t=bleach+spray Basically you have to adjust the strength of the dilution based on the sodium hypochlorite in the bleach you have available. It is not the be all and end all of dealing with foliage problems but it can be an important and effective tool when used promptly when needed. Bill |
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January 12, 2021 | #19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Czech republic
Posts: 2,534
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Quote:
Vladimír |
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January 15, 2021 | #20 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: East central Missouri
Posts: 9
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Quote:
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January 15, 2021 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: East central Missouri
Posts: 9
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Thank you. I agree about the benefit of morning sun. Over the years, my original spot for tomatoes became more shaded in the morning, but sun from noon-sunset. I finally understood that it was due to the rapid growth of my cedars that line the property on the east side. Moving the plot further west solved that problem. I have the advantage of having some acreage, so that I can move it.
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January 15, 2021 | #22 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,292
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Quote:
For most of us cultural practices make more difference that any resistances bred into a tomato. Chef's Choice and the Mountain Series being hybrid have the resistance bred in. Old Brooks is an older commercial open pollenated variety (one of my favorite varieties). They may be listed as being resistant but not so anyone could notice any different than any other variety. Grow what sounds ands and tastes good I say.
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there's two things money can't buy; true love and home grown tomatoes. |
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January 16, 2021 | #23 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Ústí nad Labem in the north of the Czech Republic
Posts: 332
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Quote:
I had a serious problem with lb last year. I don't use any chemical prevention and the result was that if I hadn't had lb resistant varieties (Mountain Magic, Crimson Crush, Cocktail Crush) my season would have finished at the beginning of September. The resistant ones lasted until the first frost, i.e. the beginning of November. I still have a few tomatoes ripening in my pantry at the moment. And the taste? Now it's nothing special, but in the summer and fall they were excellent - nine on a scale 0 - 10. Yes, alternaria is not as deadly as phythophthora and yes, my climate conditions are different from those in Missouri. However, looking for resistant cultivars is not a bad idea. They can save your day. Milan HP |
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January 16, 2021 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: East central Missouri
Posts: 9
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Early Blight
Thanks
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January 16, 2021 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,292
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It is strange that Early Blight happens late in the season for me and Late Blight is an early season disease. Early Blight occurs as the plant ages and is under more stress after fruiting is almost done and is a progressive pathogen usually starting at the bottom foliage and works its way up.
Thank goodness I have never had a problem with Late Blight which will destroy a tomato plant in a matter of days and is very contagious jumping from plant to plant quickly and easily. It may be just me but the few times I have grown hybrids they seem to be the only plants susceptible to disease during the growing season, particularly with blights and wilts. Maybe as well as resistance bred in they also have susceptibility bred in as well. It seems that what many people say about OPs being less resistant and hybrids more resistant to pathogens, it works just the opposite for me. Maybe that is why very few hybrids find their way into my gardens.
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there's two things money can't buy; true love and home grown tomatoes. |
January 16, 2021 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Ústí nad Labem in the north of the Czech Republic
Posts: 332
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I assume that this lore turned upside down is the result of hybrids being crossbred mainly for taste, color or some other reasons. It was not very long ago that breeders started to pay more attention to resistance. Actually, here in Europe I had trouble finding any lb resistant varieties as recently as in 2017. Since then though, the number of resistant hybrids has risen multifold. And also their quality in taste and yield. Personally, I'd rather put up with a bit less tasty tomato than with the view of my tomato garden going to the dogs. It's terribly depressing, especially because you know there's nothing you can do about it.
Milan HP |
January 21, 2021 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: fortville,IN 46040
Posts: 140
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I've had all blights and wilts. I bought plastic grow boxes with bagged soil, put them on the concrete drive 300' away from the garden, and still had problems so I determined I definitely had airborne as well. Last yr. I cleared a small area on the edge of the woods where nothing has ever grown but weeds. I laid a black round 10' dia. trampoline bottom down, cut 5, 6" square holes, and planted 5 of the plants that I have the best luck with, Juliet, Jet Star, Super Sonic, Big Beef and Celebrity. I wait till end of May because of our cool damp nights. I get 6-7 hours of sun and had no problems. I did water a little because the black tarp really cooked the ground. I didn't get a big amount of tomatoes but the plants looked good and went till frost.
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