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Old March 7, 2012   #16
JamesL
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elight,
I am NO expert, but I think your setup looks pretty good. It should work fine. I built a dozen tainers recently based on Raybo's plans. Used that exact mini float. Using a hose hookup though, not a gravity feed.
Went with 3/8 in sizing on everything to keep it simple and because I will have a fairly long run from the spigot. Otherwise I think I would have used 1/4 in across the board.
1/4 in ought to serve your purpose well.
I went with T fittings as well as opposed to a Daisy chain. Thought process was it will be easier to take a tainer "out of service" if I need to. That and didn't want any possible "contamination" issues from one to next. Don't know if that is a real concern or not. I will have 2 tainers of peas, and at least 1 of carrots in addition to tomatoes though, so the fertilizers will be different.

Haven't water tested my system yet. Pressure test is slated for this weekend. Peas are in potting blocks in my basement and need to get in their new home asap!
Suppliers -
Valves - http://www.thevalveshop.com/menu/man...k/kerickm.html
PE Tubing (black) and fittings (went with Parker liquifit) from here.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-...-fittings.aspx
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Old March 7, 2012   #17
rnewste
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James,

Where did you mount the float-valve on the EarthTainer to avoid conflict with the Aeration Bench support assembly?

Any photos would be appreciated.

Raybo
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Old March 7, 2012   #18
JamesL
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Raybo,
I don't have a picture of it. On the Rubbermaid tubs, right where elight has it marked on the diagram - long side of the tub, towards the end. I actually shortened the bench support slightly to make sure I had room.
Only built 2 rubbermaids. Now using a different tub completely. As soon as I get some time to write it up I will send it to you.
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Old March 7, 2012   #19
elight
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Thanks, James! Glad to hear that it worked for you. It seems that the float it shouldn't interfere with the bench support... according to the product label in the picture in the EarthTainer guide, the tote is about 33" the long way, and about 16.5" the short way. Since the bench support is just that 16.5" (plus maybe 1" overlap), there should be about 15" left over around it... or about 7.5" on each side of the bench support. The float looks like it doesn't take up more than 1-2" left-to-right.

The bigger issue will be when I try to mount the floats on my 5-gallon bucket SWCs. I can't think of how I could mount the valve on rounded surface. My current thinking is to mount the valve vertically, so that it "hangs" from the underside of the inner bucket (the equivalent of the aeration bench) with a hose running through the soil to a hole drilled through the side of both buckets (or just the inner bucket if I run the hose high enough vertically to where they don't overlap).

My goal is to have all the parts in about two weeks, and then test the watering system and ensure I understand how everything works together. Aiming to build everything the weekend of Mar. 31... just in case this warm weather persists and I can get a head start on planting outdoors!
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Old March 7, 2012   #20
JamesL
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I haven't done it, but I bet you can still get a good seal on the rounded bucket side with the addition of some extra rubber washers. It that didn't work, a tube of silicone probably would!
Angling the float down slightly so the water level sits just below the float mount might work as well.
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Old March 7, 2012   #21
rnewste
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL View Post
I haven't done it, but I bet you can still get a good seal on the rounded bucket side with the addition of some extra rubber washers. It that didn't work, a tube of silicone probably would!
Angling the float down slightly so the water level sits just below the float mount might work as well.
Use the (fat) 1/2" I.D. rubber grommet shown on Page 14 of the InnTainer Guide:

http://earthtainer.tomatofest.com/pd...tion-Guide.pdf

Make sure to purchase the float valves for your 5 gallon buckets with a 1/2" thread size to snugly fit within the grommet.

EDIT: Actually, there is no reason to have the mounting hole below the water level in the reservoir, so I think just snugging the nut down on the float valve will be sufficient, and then adjusting the float bulb to shut off water intake before it rises to the mounting hole.

Raybo
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Old March 7, 2012   #22
elight
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I think for the buckets, there are two benefits to mounting it vertically. One is that it probably gains you an extra .5-1" of water height than would be possible mounting to the side. The other is that it is easier to position in the bucket:



This is not exactly to scale, but based on the fact that a 5 gallon bucket is ~12" in diameter, and the float is 7" in length. It would thus be impossible to mount it perpendicular to the vertical side of the bucket without it interfering with the wicket basket (the center of which, regardless of its diameter, is 6" from the side of the bucket). You could, however, mount it as seen in the second (lower) option in the diagram.

Let me know if that makes sense!
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Old March 7, 2012   #23
saltmarsh
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Nice discussion, and not to butt in, but if all the containers are on about the same level, say within 1 1/2" or less, why not use a separate container to mount the float valve in and let the water gravity flow through a line to all the containers in an area. One float valve should be able to supply a patio full of containers. Claud

A piece of 1/2 inch line with the ends folded and 1/4" lines going to the buckets should be all you need. The punch tool should make a hole in the 5 gal. bucket and a 1/4' barb coupling should give a quick leakproof connection.

Last edited by saltmarsh; March 7, 2012 at 04:00 PM. Reason: Mrs. Algers (8th grade English teacher)
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Old March 7, 2012   #24
elight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saltmarsh View Post
Nice discussion, and not to butt in, but if all the containers are on about the same level, say within 1 1/2" or less, why not use a separate container to mount the float valve in and let the water gravity flow through a line to all the containers in an area. one float valve should be able to supply a patio full or containers. Claud
The more and more I think about this, the more I think it could be the solution. In my case, perhaps just a float valve in the EarthTainer (where it seems to be easily mountable with good clearance), and then connecting lines (or one line with three branches) to the three 5-gallon buckets?

In this way, the EarthTainer is basically acting as the "intermediate reservoir" that I referenced in earlier posts.

I had originally thought that this setup required a siphon system as described in the Global Buckets video, but wouldn't it also work if I just had a connecting hose/pipe running between buckets at some level below water height as controlled by the float?
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Old March 7, 2012   #25
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Yes, I think you can use the larger EarthTainer as the float-valve "master control", then run slave 1/4" feed lines to your other (smaller) buckets. Same principle as the Global Buckets folks employ - with the EarthTainer in place of the float level bucket.

Raybo
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Old March 7, 2012   #26
elight
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That seems to make the most sense, then. Worst case scenario, if the need to separate the water supply between the containers arises, I can always plug the holes.
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Old March 8, 2012   #27
JamesL
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I would agree with saltmarsh and Raybo - The simple solution is almost always the better way to go. I have seen smaller mini floats, I believe I saw some they were round. Can't put my finger on the website at the moment. If i find it I will let you know.

elight, what program are you using to draw your sketches?
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Old March 8, 2012   #28
elight
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Agreed, James. The only question is whether I should have the EarthTainer do double-duty as the water supply for the other containers, as such:



It seems to me that the hoses connecting the EarthTainer to the 5-gallon buckets don't even need to be downhill for the purposes of gravity... so long as they are below the water level on both sides, right? For example:



I'm not a hydraulics expect (clearly), but it seems that such a setup should work to keep the water levels even.

I used Paint.NET for this stuff... it is free and is a huge step up from Paint!
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Old March 8, 2012   #29
JamesL
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Thanks for the Paint.net

You are correct as to the 5 gal buckets being downhill. They don't need to be and as saltmarsh indicated, no requirement to elevate the reservoir either as long as you have the float valve in the earthtainer.

The answer really hinges on your needs. If you need the ability to fill a reservoir completely and walk away for a weekend, your design should work nicely. Assuming you are using at least a 5 gal bucket for the reservoir.

My only concern is that your "downstream" plants are beholden to the plants in the earthtainer for water and possible fertilizer runoff. But I have NO experience with that.

Raybo, Am I overthinking the downstream issue? Any problem with peppers growing downstream from tomatoes?
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Old March 8, 2012   #30
elight
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Excellent point about the "downstream" fertilizer issue. I may also plant cucumbers or something else in addition to tomatoes and peppers.

Perhaps this makes more sense, then (sorry for so many diagrams):



The added benefit would be that, if something goes wrong with the float, it is easily accessible. (And the water level can easily be adjusted if need be.) The elevated reservoir does not need to be elevated, but I think it will speed the flow of water with the help of gravity. The intermediate reservoir could be something as simple as a 5-gallon bucket or a smaller tote... the size is irrelevant given its purpose. This is essentially the Global Buckets method, but with the siphons "built-in" beneath the water level, instead of going through the fill tubes.

I think that the main reservoir has to be big - at least a 31 gallon tote, and maybe even a trash can, to ensure there is enough water to feed 5 plants over the course of a weekend. My 5-gallon bucket SWCs (which held 1+ gallons of water in their reservoirs) would often be filled in the morning and run dry by the time I got home from work on hot summer days.
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