Discuss your tips, tricks and experiences growing and selling vegetables, fruits, flowers, plants and herbs.
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January 27, 2018 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Tomato Cornhole
Posts: 2,550
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What are you feeding that thing? It's hard to believe it grew that much in less than a month.
What kind of pepper is it? |
January 27, 2018 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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These are the last of my Billy Biker jalapeno seeds that I wanted to get rid of this year, I decided to grow them as indoor plants to see if I can get ripe peppers by the end of May. They are in cheap Jiffy mix right now, I use Promix when I pot them up. They just got their 1st dose of weak fertilizer this evening, nothing but water since they sprouted. I think root space matters initially.
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January 27, 2018 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Tomato Cornhole
Posts: 2,550
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That might be it, what ever you're doing it's working. I can't get that type growth in the greenhouse with low night time temps, I do expect them to jump up in about 3 weeks when the temps stay above 45 at night.
I'll see soon enough, I never paid much attention to pepper growth because it was 2nd on the list behind tomatoes. |
January 27, 2018 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
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I use 72 cell for tomatoes and for peppers. They fill those with roots by the time true leaf number 3 is pushing out. I would think smaller cells would just mean you have to pot up sooner.
The smallest cells I've seen were really shallow as well, used for basil at the farm. I'm gonna have to google and ogle those teeny ones! If I had lots of space and wanted to save time, I would probably go direct from mass germination in big cells right into pots. I have to do mass germination, limited space on heat mat. I did google and the 392 is the same one we used for basil at the farm. They are tiny and I found them not really easy to transplant. Bit of a trick to popping them out of the cells, otherwise they get squashed and may as well be bare rooted. Very small soil volume at a third of an inch. But it was perfect size for starting basil, and may be perfect for germinating slow hot peppers too... Let us know how it goes. Last edited by bower; January 27, 2018 at 08:38 PM. Reason: add |
January 27, 2018 | #20 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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Quote:
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January 27, 2018 | #21 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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Quote:
Dedicating space for a plug tray for germinating is not the most efficient use of that space (or heat), especially in the Spring when you need the space to start other things. I think once the cotyledons are fully out, the plants can tolerate a cooler location. My house is a 68-70 normally so I haven't experimented with the 50F growing range yet. But the point is, you really only need a very small space for germination. After that, additional space is dedicated only to sprouted seeds and that requires some pre-planning. |
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January 28, 2018 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
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I started onions in a plug tray with zillions of cells. It was a mistake. The seeds germinated fine but I couldn't keep it moist indoors for very long.
Those very small cells are intended for use in a professional misted germination chamber. The other option might be a moisture control potting mix. I would get the peppers into a larger cell asap so they don't accidently get dried out. I seldom use coffee filters because I am a clutz when it comes to potting them, but it is a very convenient method for large scale germination. I have peas going in them now, as well as in soil as a back up. - Lisa |
January 29, 2018 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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January 30, 2018 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 511
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Been a long while since I posted here.. but this question hit home as im currently starting seeds for the High Tunnels for production and seeds for my Spring Plant Sale.
For the longest time I used the 72 cell plugs. Now, im experimenting with using 1204 inserts. You can easily sow 2,3 or even 4 seeds per cell. I have tried "community planting" and didnt care for it. When its time to transplant just soak with warm water to untangle any roots, then transplant. As stated earlier, transplanting is a given. Obviously the earlier you transplant the less shock the seedling incurs. Im thinking a really loose seedling mix would be ideal. Right now im just sticking with my go-to peat perlite mix. |
January 30, 2018 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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What is it y'all don't like about mass sowing? This is 50 pepper seedlings. I love this picture, shows just how much you start in such a tiny space.
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January 30, 2018 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Tomato Cornhole
Posts: 2,550
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I had to try the plug tray to make transplanting easier. If it doesn't work then I go back to community pots.
I transplanted a few flats yesterday and have more to do today. I did do my usually mass planting this year, those plants aren't yellow just the sun setting. |
January 30, 2018 | #27 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 511
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Quote:
Since you asked, my main problem was tangled roots. I couldnt get them undone. But I will say, that is beautiful pic. What did you use to form that size? |
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January 30, 2018 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 511
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Rajun...
Good looking transplants. Just curious, on chilly nights, what is your approach? Frost cover? Space heater? |
January 30, 2018 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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January 30, 2018 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 511
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