January 15, 2011 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Tony,
Most of the support comes from the assembly that sits below the Aeration Bench. These two pieces are bolted together using four 1/4"x20 machine screws and washers. It forms a pretty rigid structure in this configuration. The four corners, and the handle areas are especially strong when you sit the Aeration Bench on them. The two bolts in the upper Aeration bench do provide support, but only in a secondary capacity. Raybo Last edited by rnewste; January 15, 2011 at 05:33 PM. |
January 16, 2011 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
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Wow! Those veggie (corn, peppers, cukes & snow peas) plants look great.
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February 15, 2011 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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I wanted to let anyone considering constructing some ET3s that the Gurney's promotional offer of by $50 worth of stuff for $25 (as mentioned in this guide) is going to expire in 48 hours according to an email they just sent me. So...if you're on the (pea) fence, time commit and get those orders in now. Two pea fences and one pack of seeds is about $51 and then you get the $25 discount, which more than covers the shipping costs, at least it did for shipping to Texas. I'm thinking about ordering more, just in case I decide to build more than I've already ordered.
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February 21, 2011 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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Raybo:
Ace online is selling Premier Horticulture 0432P General Purpose Plant Growing Pro Mix with Mycorize 3.8 CF for $25.99 for the 3.8 CV bag, but the shipping is more than the 65 pound bag costs, so a local source will be necessary. It appears to be the one you recommend in the guide, but already containing Mycorize. Do you have any idea how far a 3.8 cf bag will go? I assume you are still mixing your own soil in a 3,2,1 or some other variant? |
February 21, 2011 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Dewayne,
Just some round numbers. Assuming the EarthTainer III holds approx. 3 cu. ft., then with the 3:2:1 Combo Mix ratio, each 'Tainer would need 1.5 cu. ft. Pro-Mix, 1.0 cu. ft. of Bark Fines, and 0.5 cu. ft. of Perlite. Call around to some Hydroponics Shops as they most likely carry Pro-Mix. Also, larger full service Nurseries may also carry it. Or you could call the Pro-Mix folks directly and see which stores sell it in the DFW area. Raybo |
February 21, 2011 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Landers, CA
Posts: 191
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ray
two evanley spaced bolts on euther side would give much more support there would very little sageing if the bolts where about 1 inch up from the bottom of the earthtainer with the potting mix, regards. les |
February 21, 2011 | #22 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Quote:
First, the 2 bolts play a minor role in supporting the inner container piece. It is really the Aeration Bench support assembly that holds up the inner container. Here is a photo of 2 EarthTainers, one with no upper bolts (top), and with the 2 bolts in the top portion 2 inches from the rim (bottom): As is clearly demonstrated with 175 pounds of water held in each, the one with the 2 upper bolts restrains the sidewalls from bowing out. Second, the new feature of the EarthTainer III design is that the "container-within-a-container" now functions like a thermos bottle whereby the sidewalls have an air gap between much of the internal surface area. Moving the 2 bolts to the bottom area would both distort the shape of the two containers then being pulled together, as well as remove the desired air gap. Keeping the 2 bolts near the top of the design is where they are best located: After the EarthTainer I, then the EarthTainer II, I have really studied the design, construction material selection, and other metrics to develop a system that is near optimal. Raybo |
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February 21, 2011 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Beach, Calif.
Posts: 9
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Has anybody tried a airstone in the bottom, to oxygenate the water.
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February 21, 2011 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Quote:
That is one of the trials I had intended to run a year ago. I even have the ozone generator sitting in the storage cabinet. My intent was to embed an Airstone within each 'Tainer's water reservoir, then run a manifold array of 1/2" tubing to each one. I was going to run the ozone generator an hour per week, to start with. Just had other activities like the cage change-out on my 20 EarthTainer II systems, over to the new removable cages, as the higher priority this year. Perhaps next Season. Raybo |
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February 21, 2011 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Island formerly zone 6
Posts: 61
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Last year I was adding several gallons of water to each earthtainer every day. The water never had a chance to get stagnant. I don't think an airstone would be productive.
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February 21, 2011 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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duck,
You are probably on to something. With lots of water "flow-through", oxygenation may not be necessary, as it is for an aquarium, for example. I am now more concerned about salts buildup in the Combo Mix over time, so that is why in the Guide, I am recommending periodic use of Clearex to "flush" the Combo Mix. My concept with the ozone generator was that it *might* accelerate root development with the injection of more oxygen. Another Myth-Busters Challenge for next Season! Raybo |
February 21, 2011 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Clara CA
Posts: 1,125
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Ray- I started doing a flush last year with all my SWC's. Good to see you on the 'flush' train finally, I think its really important as I stressed this last year in a thread. The Clearex is exactly what I used last year.
Damon |
February 21, 2011 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Damon,
What frequency of application did you find most effective? Weekly, monthly, ??? Raybo |
February 21, 2011 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Beach, Calif.
Posts: 9
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wasn't adding oxygen because of stagnation, I have grow many different styles of hydro and oxygenated water is the most important part of hydro. plants need the oxygen and thrive when you increase the levels. Maybe i'll build 2 of the tubs and oxygenate one of them to see any differences there might be. I'm growing bell peppers right now for my g/f in a nice dwc(deep water culture) set up. great quick results. Plus it would also be moving air up and out threw the double wall which might aid in cooling. indoors I have also cooled the air pump which cools the air being pumped into the water which will cool the water in the res.
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February 22, 2011 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Clara CA
Posts: 1,125
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Raybo- I flushed my tomatoes with the Clearex once last year around late mid season. Per the advice of my good hydro buddy I poured the flush from the top and removed the excess/drainage out of the reservoir after allowing to fully drain. I think it all depends on the fertilizing schedule. The more often you fertilize the more often you might want to flush. I under fertilized most of my stuff in SWC's last year and had to supplement with FP or MG so I didn't see the need to flush more than once.
On a side, did you hear about the northern arctic storm coming later this week? They say its going to get really cold here with a slight chance of snow. Damon Last edited by sprtsguy76; February 22, 2011 at 02:27 AM. |
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