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Old June 16, 2010   #16
(bryan)
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This post has been very educational, but if you are looking for a quick N source that is organic, one that I have found that is as high as blood meal and is immediately available is nitrate of soda aka Chilean nitrate. It has the ability to raise ph too so it has to be used in con★★★★★★★★ with a agood soil test. 18$ at Umass amherst soil lab ---http://www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest/

will get you a complete test with soluble salts.

I got one of those store bought test and it said my ph was 7.1. I sent a sample to umass and PH was 6.0. I'll never trust a store test again. I hope you find a answer to your n issue.
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Old June 16, 2010   #17
Timmah!
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"...i paid for a real comprehensive test. that takes weeks and cost $50 10 years ago..."

Don't know what your current situation is, but considering your time & effort invested in your garden, a comprehensive soil test seems like the most important return of very valuable knowledge for proceeding; especially considering the negligible price for such crucial information. A quick google search for your state's agricultural extension office reveals you can get a comprehensive soil analysis for the grand total of: $8

http://www.soiltest.uconn.edu/price.php

Standard Nutrient Analysis (Modified Morgan)$8.00
Samples submitted for the Standard Nutrient Analysis are analyzed for plant available calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, iron, manganese, copper, zinc, aluminum and boron. The soil pH is determined and samples are screened for estimated total lead. Soil test results also include an estimation of the soil textural class and amount of soil organic matter. Limestone and fertilizer recommendations are made based on test results and the crop being grown. (Soils sent in the pre-paid soil test collection kits receive this test.) The standard nutrient analysis is appropriate for lawns, vegetables, flowers, woody ornamentals, fruits, agronomic crops and nursery crops (like Christmas trees) grown in mineral soil.

I fond this general recommendation further down in the organic matter content test interesting: Most plants do best in soils with organic matter contents between 4 and 8 percent

Have you contacted you county's ag. extension's horticultural representative for advice on your situation? That's what they're there for, afterall. I found mine to be most knowledgeable, helpful, accessible, & willing to take the time to answer many questions I had. She examined & saved the life of several of my Brandywines.

Hope this helps.
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Old June 16, 2010   #18
beeman
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I have to fall into the 'soil test' parade. I did find out that a high PH will produce effects similar to a nitrogen deficiency, a lack of iron. So adding nitrogen will just add to the problem, in my case I needed aluminum sulphate.
Heres a link http://www.google.ca/search?q=acidifying+soil&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=com.ubuntu:en-US:unofficial&client=firefox-a
It does deal with Blueberries, but the principal is the same.
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