container tomatoes - Page 2

jwr6404 · February 6, 2006

Michael
I have already ordered,for the first time, plants from Laurel because they were friendly and helpful. Locally I purchase plants from Pacific Potager. They specialize in tomatos that do better in our Pacific Northwest envoirnment.

Sherry_AK · February 6, 2006

Craig -- Do you mind naming the pelleted fertilizer you get at Home Depot, or would it be obvious to me if I go there?

(Hi, Sue!)

Sherry

**mdvpc** · February 7, 2006

Sherry-I dont know what Craig is using, but espoma tomato tone is very good for containers-dont know if they sell at home depot, since espoma doesnt distribute to Texas-I get mine from eithe Totally Tomatoes or Yardiac.com

KCMO_Don · February 8, 2006

I have some sections of white plastic drainage pipe that is about twice as big around as a 5 gal bucket. I cut it into 24" sections and bury the bottom, and dig out the soil under it. I effectively have about a 3 foot deep rased bed / bottomless pot.
I grew a Neves azorean red, and a MASSIVE sungold in a few of these last year....
In fact the tomato on my Avatar was my first Neves of the year in 2005.

travis · February 9, 2006

Check out this link:
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nursery-...roperties.html

Read about Perched Water Table (PWT) in containers down in the section called "Air vs. Water."

Last summer, the tomatoes and peppers growing in pots into which I inserted a wick trailing out the bottom of the container set up on bricks did a whole lot better than the plants in pots without wicks.

PV

Mantis · February 9, 2006

A lot of my containers are sitting on soil so I put large holes in the bottoms or even cut the bottom clean off the pot. This would do the same as wicking and better as the roots can get past the pot and into the soil below.
That being said , i did have a half wine barrel sitting on concrete that was getting waterlogged, so I put a couple of wicks in it through holes drilled in the sides near the bottom of the pot. This helped a lot.

travis · February 10, 2006

Mantis,

You make a good point. The tomatoes that rooted into soil under my pots setting right on the ground (they sent roots out the drainage holes) didn't blow over like some of the ones that had wicks and were setting up on bricks.

I was experimenting a lot last summer and should fine tune it more this year.

PV

MsCowpea · February 11, 2006

Craig, amazing that you bleached containers and used fresh potting mix and still got what you thought may be fusarium. I have never read of a possible insect vector--beside the soil itself all the articles mention seeds, transplants,tools, tomato stakes, contaminated water, etc.

Wonder if it could be something else--for $20 you can have a plant analyzed in Raleigh at the U of NC. That seems so cheap to confirm what you may suspect.
I was pretty sure I had TSWV but still paid $20 to know for sure.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/clinic/

(Under How to Submit Samples there is also an interesting link to Clinic Summaries of all the diseases of tomatoes (and other plants) that were ID'd at U of NC lab. Southern Bacterial Wilt seems to be tops year after year.) Good luck this year with all your plants. Farkee

MsCowpea · February 11, 2006

Forgot to mention that Pro-mix has a new formulation that includes a bio-fungicide. Mentions that is protects against fusarium.

http://www.premierhort.com/eProMix/H...rticulture.htm

Sherry_AK · February 11, 2006

Thanks, Michael. I'll check out Tomato Tone.

Sherry

**mdvpc** · February 12, 2006

Sherry-I think you will like it-if you cant find it, let me know and I will help you find it.

February 6, 2006	#16
jwr6404 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: University Place, WA Posts: 481	Michael I have already ordered,for the first time, plants from Laurel because they were friendly and helpful. Locally I purchase plants from Pacific Potager. They specialize in tomatos that do better in our Pacific Northwest envoirnment. __________________ Jim

February 7, 2006	#18
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	Sherry-I dont know what Craig is using, but espoma tomato tone is very good for containers-dont know if they sell at home depot, since espoma doesnt distribute to Texas-I get mine from eithe Totally Tomatoes or Yardiac.com __________________ Michael

February 8, 2006	#19
KCMO_Don Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: KANSAS Posts: 223	pots.... I have some sections of white plastic drainage pipe that is about twice as big around as a 5 gal bucket. I cut it into 24" sections and bury the bottom, and dig out the soil under it. I effectively have about a 3 foot deep rased bed / bottomless pot. I grew a Neves azorean red, and a MASSIVE sungold in a few of these last year.... In fact the tomato on my Avatar was my first Neves of the year in 2005. __________________ GIGGITY - GIGGITY

February 12, 2006	#26
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	Sherry-I think you will like it-if you cant find it, let me know and I will help you find it. __________________ Michael

February 6, 2006	#17
Sherry_AK Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Alaska Zone 3/4 Posts: 1,857	Craig -- Do you mind naming the pelleted fertilizer you get at Home Depot, or would it be obvious to me if I go there? (Hi, Sue!) Sherry

February 9, 2006	#20
travis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Evansville, IN Posts: 2,984	Check out this link: http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nursery-...roperties.html Read about Perched Water Table (PWT) in containers down in the section called "Air vs. Water." Last summer, the tomatoes and peppers growing in pots into which I inserted a wick trailing out the bottom of the container set up on bricks did a whole lot better than the plants in pots without wicks. PV

February 9, 2006	#21
Mantis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Oz Posts: 1,241	A lot of my containers are sitting on soil so I put large holes in the bottoms or even cut the bottom clean off the pot. This would do the same as wicking and better as the roots can get past the pot and into the soil below. That being said , i did have a half wine barrel sitting on concrete that was getting waterlogged, so I put a couple of wicks in it through holes drilled in the sides near the bottom of the pot. This helped a lot.

February 10, 2006	#22
travis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Evansville, IN Posts: 2,984	Mantis, You make a good point. The tomatoes that rooted into soil under my pots setting right on the ground (they sent roots out the drainage holes) didn't blow over like some of the ones that had wicks and were setting up on bricks. I was experimenting a lot last summer and should fine tune it more this year. PV

February 11, 2006	#23
MsCowpea Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: S. FLorida / Zone 10 Posts: 369	Craig, amazing that you bleached containers and used fresh potting mix and still got what you thought may be fusarium. I have never read of a possible insect vector--beside the soil itself all the articles mention seeds, transplants,tools, tomato stakes, contaminated water, etc. Wonder if it could be something else--for $20 you can have a plant analyzed in Raleigh at the U of NC. That seems so cheap to confirm what you may suspect. I was pretty sure I had TSWV but still paid $20 to know for sure. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/clinic/ (Under How to Submit Samples there is also an interesting link to Clinic Summaries of all the diseases of tomatoes (and other plants) that were ID'd at U of NC lab. Southern Bacterial Wilt seems to be tops year after year.) Good luck this year with all your plants. Farkee