General information and discussion about cultivating all other edible garden plants.
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#16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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My absolute favorite is a yellow zucchini called Butta. It is extremely productive and the plant gets quite large even though it is a bush type. The biggest bonus is that it will get quite large before having much if anything in the way of seeds and the outer skin remains tender until it is quite large or old. I usually plant three plants and give away most of the squash because it produces far more than we can eat. I keep SVBs away by dusting the base of the stem with Sevin dust.
Bill |
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#17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 206
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I am a "Kath" also! ![]() ![]() |
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#18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Minsk, Belarus, Eastern Europe (Zone 4a)
Posts: 2,278
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I really like mini-zucchini.
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__________________
1 kg=2.2 lb , 1 m=39,37 in , 1 oz=28.35 g , 1 ft=30.48 cm , 1 lb= 0,4536 kg , 1 in=2.54 cm , 1 l = 0.26 gallon , 0 C=32 F Andrey a.k.a. TOMATODOR |
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#19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Raven has been in my garden for at least 8 years and has beat out the competition for earliness, compactness, dark color, taste, resistance to mushiness when cooked, and resistance to early death from bugs/disease...until last year when Midnight Lightning, which, although a larger plant, was still relatively well behaved and was the earliest by a few days, more productive and outlasted Raven by weeks. Another trial between those two along with Dark Star for 2018. kath |
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#20 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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If I might ask, does this mean you dont have a problem with that bug (larval stage)that drills thru the vine at the base???? |
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#21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Yes, we have squash vine borers, but it's hit and miss as to whether or not the plants go down. I get a few started really early and also succession plant them, so that helps. Some years we get more zucchini than others, but many times we have them until fall.
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#22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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I was hoping you had another variety that was immunt to the vine boror like the butternut squash.
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#23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Wouldn't that be great?! Sadly, no- zucchini's are the only other squash I try to grow other than butternut for that very reason. Everything else takes too long to mature and I never get ripe fruit from them before they die.
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#24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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I've had borers in my plants every year, but still had successful zucchini harvests. Check the vines every day for frass, and the moment you find any dig out the borer by cutting through the vine the long way and squash(!) it. Then pile dirt over the vine at the surgery site.
I've learned that as long as the vine is not completely severed, the plant will continue to grow like nothing happened. And, if I eliminate all the early borers, I don't have any more problems with them as the season progresses. |
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#25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,013
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used to be a tar mixture used for sealing grafts. bet that would help around the bottom, especially if dusted with malathion gasp!
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#26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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How about BT instead???
I was thinking about giving a dusting to the stem to get thru the prime borer season. From what I have read, after the moths lay their eggs for the season, the moths die and that is the end of laying for the season. Just the maggot to deal with. Sealing a wound with dirt seems counter-intuitive. My thought when I have read covering the cut with soil in a number of places is, dang, doesnt that intro disease into the wound? Mensplace-- have you actually used tar?? Perhas any grafting goop would work??? |
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#27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,013
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What I suggest is a very thin paintable solution that dries instantly and comes in a small, yellow, plastic jar with brush inside that is easy to use. Used to be folks used beeswax and rosin that had to be heated. That would kill the plant. I was thinking of a thick, sealing effect that would be easy to use. The malathion was just for an instant kill additive after the paint.
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#28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 1,836
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I went to the local store today, and they had frozen bags of spiral cut Zuchini , kinda like spaghetti squash. Right next to a frozen bag of "riced" cauliflower ...
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#29 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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Watched a fellow use hot wax to seal after grafting, and I said "ouch" just watching the graft recieve that hot wax. |
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#30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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