Replacing handles and other tips.

[Worth1]

Duplicate post.

[taboule]

Repurposing scrap HW flooring, my type of thing.

For the counter sinking statement you made, I assume the flat sides will be on the outside (away from the tang) so you use the countersinks to rivet the pins into? In which case you'll have to grind/cut/rip away the grooved faces of the scales.

Or use the flat sides on the inside, but then why need the countersinks (room for epoxy?) and then sanding the grooved sides may be more work?

I know I'm getting ahead of your tutorial, but that is part of the fun, no? ;>)

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by taboule

Repurposing scrap HW flooring, my type of thing.

For the counter sinking statement you made, I assume the flat sides will be on the outside (away from the tang) so you use the countersinks to rivet the pins into? In which case you'll have to grind/cut/rip away the grooved faces of the scales.

Or use the flat sides on the inside, but then why need the countersinks (room for epoxy?) and then sanding the grooved sides may be more work?

I know I'm getting ahead of your tutorial, but that is part of the fun, no? ;>)

No worries I didn't go down far enough for the counter sink part to hit just far enough to start a little hole.
The grooved faces of the flooring will be planed away with a brass smoothing plane and flattened with a file by way of the draw file method then scraped with a straight edge.
Worth

[Worth1]

Some might notice I made a boo boo and had the wood turned the wrong way when I drilled the holes.
Not a big deal.
You will see the smoothing plane and a spoke shave in the pictures.
You will also see me cheating and using the drill press to cut out the shape of the handle.
I keep the wood thick so I can rough out the shapes and not have to worry about splintering and ruining the work.
Worth
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[Worth1]

Seems a shame that all of this is going to get cut off but I need to know what I can get away with.
10 lines per inch on top and 20 line French checkering on the bottom.
I think hand cut wood checkering is one of the hardest things I have ever tried to do.
When I feel I am good enough I will do a gun stock.
Until then I will just keep practicing on stuff like this.
One mess up and its over.
Worth
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[bower]

Nice work with the knife handles, Worth. I really like your rustic spoon too! What kind of carving tools did you use for that?

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by bower

Nice work with the knife handles, Worth. I really like your rustic spoon too! What kind of carving tools did you use for that?

Thank you very much.

Homemade carving tools, I will save any piece of scrap I can get my hands on.
From wore out thread cutting dies to discarded files and drill bits, I pick everything up.
The spoon was gouged out with a wore out file I ground into a carving gouge and scraper.

Yesterday I went to Lowes first then Home Depot looking for knife rivets to no avail.
Since Lowes has nothing but POS Kobalt files that you need a special Kobalt handle for I left with nothing and went to the other place.

I ended up buying brass machine screws and nuts.
Then last night I had a brainstorm while in bed as to how to hide the ugly things.
It just so happens that 9MM Parabellum shell casing fits the holes I drilled perfectly.

There has been a ton of work on the handles since my last set of pictures and still more but it is getting there.
Worth

[Hellmanns]

Nice work, Worth!

I have used most everything for rivets. Lowes or Home Depot, should have copper nails or brazing rods.

[bower]

Making your own tools... well that is the height of true craftsmanship.
I've made rivets from wire, to join two pieces of metal - but they were a small gauge compared to those knife rivets. The key is to drill a hole exactly the size of your wire (brass, copper, soft metals). Then it's easy to make a rivet head that'll hold it, with your hammer. Easy as in, practice, practice.... But the heavier gauge for a knife rivet wouldn't be cheap afaik, or maybe not easy to find either. Scrap metal places can turn up all kinds of stuff, but it's likely to be hard, you'd have to anneal it to make it work...

Can't wait to see the pix how your machete turns out.
That checker work is something, too.

[Worth1]

Thank you Hellmanns and Bower.
Here it is I hope it doesn't look like a board on a blade.

I took a pile of photos but here is what I did after a bunch of blind holes and so on.
By chance I found a piece of walnut in the shed.
I used an exacto to cut it out then a pile of filing.
Fist coat of oil the other plugs will go in later.

Worth

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[Hellmanns]

Your an artist, worth!

[PhilaGardener]

Great handwork!

[bower]

Wow! That looks great! Are those the casings on the checkered side? They look super cool. I mean, what a scary machete!

[Worth1]

Thank you every one it was a lot of work but proves it can be done without fancy electric tools like belt sanders.
I cant tell you how many times I have used the smoothing plane.
I use it instead of a router on the face frame of cabinets.

Yes the plugs are the 9MM shells.
They also made a nice bushing for the lanyard hole in the end of the handle.
Under the plugs are brass nuts.

Going to look for some rimmed 38 special for the other side.

Worth

[AlittleSalt]

It looks really nice Worth. I wouldn't have thought of using the 9mm shells.