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Have a great invention to help with gardening? Are you the self-reliant type that prefers Building It Yourself vs. buying it? Share and discuss your ideas and projects with other members.

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Old April 25, 2015   #16
Worth1
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My buddy used the brad nailer to do the mouldings when we were working on renos this winter - it's like a magic wand that takes away the need for skill with a hammer. .. but also, less chance of splitting the wood, so I guess it's worth it for the trim.

You forgot fencing pliers. My dad gave me one of these, it's the most amazing tool ever..

http://www.groz-tools.com/index.cfm?...&ProductID=478

Metal shears is another tool I wouldn't be without, not just for metal but sundry things that are hard to cut otherwise - hoses, tough linoleum, etc....
You ever pinch yourself with fencing pliers.
NOT GOOD.

Worth
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Old April 25, 2015   #17
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If you are ever shopping for a Masonry trowel, and you want the very best, W. Rose is the best. http://www.wrose.com/Products/BladePatterns There is a number for each size. I would suggest not going over #10. Bigger longer trowels may seem like you could get work done faster, but unless you are well accomplished in using a trowel - you'll waste a lot of mortar and your work will be sloppy.

If you're looking for a masonry trowel to garden with - a cheap box store one will be fine.
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Old April 25, 2015   #18
kurt
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I use clear plastic tubing(as long as you want)for large horizontal (fencing,floor leveling with the idiot stick)leveling applications.Just fill it with water and let settle,mark both ends,use one as a control(bench mark)and you can level from here to Worths house.I made a triangle and atttached a plumbbob to it with marks for common angles,triangle at top,bottom rail center would be true plumb,turn 90 degrees and make perfect large timber crosscut marks(after using water level to position level sawhorses).Take a reel snap box(chalk box) attach a plumbbob to it and you have a reel in plumbbob and chalk box combo.A piece of wood and some metal expanding mesh makes the best drywall rasp.
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Old April 25, 2015   #19
bower
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You ever pinch yourself with fencing pliers.
NOT GOOD.

Worth
You ever tried to pull a fencing staple with a claw hammer? Not good either!
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Old April 25, 2015   #20
Worth1
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I use clear plastic tubing(as long as you want)for large horizontal (fencing,floor leveling with the idiot stick)leveling applications.Just fill it with water and let settle,mark both ends,use one as a control(bench mark)and you can level from here to Worths house.I made a triangle and atttached a plumbbob to it with marks for common angles,triangle at top,bottom rail center would be true plumb,turn 90 degrees and make perfect large timber crosscut marks(after using water level to position level sawhorses).Take a reel snap box(chalk box) attach a plumbbob to it and you have a reel in plumbbob and chalk box combo.A piece of wood and some metal expanding mesh makes the best drywall rasp.
I made one of those A frame plumb bob levels too with drop in feet marks.
You can use it to lay out terraces.
Very old but fantastic technology.
I also use the water level.

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Old April 25, 2015   #21
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You ever tried to pull a fencing staple with a claw hammer? Not good either!
We had two slide hammer nail pullers another fine pinching tool.

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Old April 25, 2015   #22
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I don't have a reciprocating saw... just looked it up online... I need one.
Saws - I have a few different ones around, but I usually end up with the bucksaw if it's big and rough or the hacksaw if it has to be neater. I guess I like the tension on both ends... don't have to worry about the flubbety-wubbety effects when you're in a hurry.
You forgot a miter box, I have to have one, can't make a straight cut without it!
I have an electric chainsaw, but if it's going to take longer to roll out the cord, check the oil and the chain tension, and then put it away afterwards, than the amount of cutting to be done, well I'll just use one or the other bucksaw instead.

I do have a jigsaw too for cutting wide board or what is not a straight cut. But the reciprocating saw looks like a bit more fun than that.
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Old April 25, 2015   #23
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I bought the Ridgid 18v Lithium Drill and Impact driver set, and then later added the reciprocating saw and circular saw. I've had great results with them.

I'm really happy to have an impact driver now, instead of just a drill. Drills are meant for drilling holes. Impact drivers are meant for driving screws. A cordless drill is capable of driving screws, but it's ten times easier with an impact driver. Mine will drive 3 or 4" deck screws into lumber all afternoon, with no pilot holes. It's also a lot easier to sink the screw to the right level without stripping out the head, as compared to driving with a drill.
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Old April 25, 2015   #24
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I was looking for images of small BBQ pits as they to me are a tool of necessity.
And ran across this.
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Old April 25, 2015   #25
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I've had many tree stumps to dig up, and I've found the best tool for digging and cutting roots is a cutter mattock. I keep it sharp with a grinder (another good tool). You can really bust through a bunch of nasty roots with a sharp axe end of one of these. I like it much better than a regular axe because of its weight.
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Old April 27, 2015   #26
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Sliding T Bevel Square.
To find the angle of something you want to match that isn't square.



Center head to find the center of the ends of things square or round like a post.

You can get cheap ones.


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Old April 28, 2015   #27
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Great thread! Quite a few things listed that I have and agree about -- few things that I covet.

One thing I didn't see mentioned was a good wet dry shopvac. Not the common big box store kind -- my "right hand" shopvac is this sort -- though a slightly older model.

https://www.shopvac.com/wet-dry-vacs...cSKU=970-02-10

2-stage motor, stainless steel tank, long hose, long cord, wet/dry -- with extra wet/dry filter cartridges, so a clean, dry one is always available, and assorted ends for the hose -- some shopvac, some that just fit it and are useful -- it's an everywhere tool, not just useful in the shop.


-------

I wondered about "T post puller" -- I assume that's something other than a piece of chain with a heavy clip, a four foot pry bar, and a rock?
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Old April 28, 2015   #28
kurt
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Default Old school stick rulers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
Sliding T Bevel Square.
To find the angle of something you want to match that isn't square.



Center head to find the center of the ends of things square or round like a post.

You can get cheap ones.


Worth

Just had to replace my old 8ft stick wooden folding ruler.More precise than the metal reel with the fluctuating hook end,push/pull dimention varys for fine wood working and precise measurements.


http://www.garrettwade.com/searchn.a...ules&x=50&y=12
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Old April 28, 2015   #29
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurt View Post
Just had to replace my old 8ft stick wooden folding ruler.More precise than the metal reel with the fluctuating hook end,push/pull dimention varys for fine wood working and precise measurements.


http://www.garrettwade.com/searchn.a...ules&x=50&y=12
The end on a tape measure moves back and forth the exact thickness of the hook.
It is made this way so you can take measurements off the edge or against a wall or board.
They are very accurate.
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Old April 28, 2015   #30
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I don't know what I would do without my dear husbands equipment.... the skid steer, a shop full of other excavating equipment (mostly which is too big for my use... like the dozers, the pans, the big excavators, dumptrucks...), but he sold the wheel loader and I have been sad ever since then. It was the nicest "tool" for cleaning up the garden at the end of the year or picking up the dropped apples.sigh. and I didn't even need him to drive it for me.

But loppers and felco pruners are necessary tools in my house, too. A sharp shovel, not those new wavy edged shovels... those are awful. Don't get one. A pitch fork, digging fork, a spade, a landscaping rake
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