Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old June 10, 2013   #16
ChrisK
Tomatovillian™
 
ChrisK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,448
Default

It is easy to calculate to scale to any volume using the dilution equation: C1V1=C2V2

C1= Initial concentration
V1= Initial volume
C2= Final concentration
V2= Final volume


You want a 0.31% final concentration of Sodium Hypochlorite. You start with 6% Sodium Hypochlorite (or whatever your bottle says) in the bleach solution. You want to fill a 32 oz spray bottle which is the final volume.


Thus:
C1= 6%
V1= unknown
C2= 0.31%
V2= 32 oz


6% * V1 = 0.31% * 32 oz

Rearrange

V1 = (0.31% * 32 oz)/6%

V1 = 1.65 oz (1.65 oz = 3.3 tablespoons = ~9.5 teaspoons)

Put 1.65 oz of 6% bleach into your spray bottle and fill to 32 oz.





Quote:
Originally Posted by raindrops27 View Post
Thanks B54! I was just thinking about your bleach solution when I noticed some type of disease today I will try it out tomorrow.. Since I've only seen a problem on one plant I was going to use a standard spray bottle how much bleach should I add to that?? TIA
__________________
Blog: chriskafer.wordpress.com

Ignorance more frequently begets knowledge: it is those who know little, and not those who know much, who so positively assert that this or that problem will never be solved by science. --Charles Darwin
ChrisK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 10, 2013   #17
ginger2778
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisK View Post
It is easy to calculate to scale to any volume using the dilution equation: C1V1=C2V2

C1= Initial concentration
V1= Initial volume
C2= Final concentration
V2= Final volume


You want a 0.31% final concentration of Sodium Hypochlorite. You start with 6% Sodium Hypochlorite (or whatever your bottle says) in the bleach solution. You want to fill a 32 oz spray bottle which is the final volume.


Thus:
C1= 6%
V1= unknown
C2= 0.31%
V2= 32 oz


6% * V1 = 0.31% * 32 oz

Rearrange

V1 = (0.31% * 32 oz)/6%

V1 = 1.65 oz (1.65 oz = 3.3 tablespoons = ~9.5 teaspoons)

Put 1.65 oz of 6% bleach into your spray bottle and fill to 32 oz.
See-who says algebra isn't useful for real life!
Marsha
ginger2778 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 10, 2013   #18
mashermike
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 55
Default

Bill

Which copper spray you using? I'm pretty much in the same boat as you.

Mike
mashermike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 10, 2013   #19
b54red
Tomatovillian™
 
b54red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by raindrops27 View Post
Thanks B54! I was just thinking about your bleach solution when I noticed some type of disease today I will try it out tomorrow.. Since I've only seen a problem on one plant I was going to use a standard spray bottle how much bleach should I add to that?? TIA
I don't know how large your standard bottle is but you can just adjust the mix according to the volume of the bottle. If it is a quart bottle use 1/4 as much water and 1/4 as much bleach. If it is a pint bottle use 1/8 as much of each. Make sure to check the strength of the bleach you are going to use before mixing it.

Bill
b54red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 10, 2013   #20
b54red
Tomatovillian™
 
b54red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mashermike View Post
Bill

Which copper spray you using? I'm pretty much in the same boat as you.

Mike
The one I have is by Bonide.

I went out this morning to spray and it was still raining lightly. I mixed up my spray using 8 oz of the 6% bleach added to a gallon of water since everything was dripping wet and got out and sprayed everything very well. I couldn't wait because the new outbreak of Gray Mold on my BTDP plant had already spread to 7 or 8 leaf branches when I only saw it on 2 yesterday. I may have to spray again tomorrow because of the amount of water on everything may have diluted the mix too much. I really put the spray on heavy where the Gray Mold was visible on a couple of plants and the rest I sprayed normally. I am going to have to wait for the rain to completely stop and the plants to dry out before I can use the copper fungicide.

Bill
b54red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 11, 2013   #21
tammy
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: WV
Posts: 17
Default

My tomatoes were wilting, curling and dying, my county extension agent was sure it was late blight. I went out this morning before this confirmation and heavily sprayed with the bleach solution. Do I still need to follow up with a copper product? my agent recommended copper dragon.
tammy
tammy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 11, 2013   #22
b54red
Tomatovillian™
 
b54red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tammy View Post
My tomatoes were wilting, curling and dying, my county extension agent was sure it was late blight. I went out this morning before this confirmation and heavily sprayed with the bleach solution. Do I still need to follow up with a copper product? my agent recommended copper dragon.
tammy
You could have Late Blight but you could also have Gray Mold which can look very similar. The biggest difference to me is Gray Mold usually starts in the middle or lower interior of the plant while LB usually starts showing the first symptoms higher on the plant. If you do have Late Blight then most plants showing the symptoms are going to die soon and the bleach will speed that along. That is a good thing because Late Blight will spread to the other plants in your patch. I have only seen Late Blight once this early in the year and that was quite a few years ago. It was the first time I had ever encountered it and it started on only a few plants but within two weeks every plant had it and they all died. I tried every fungicide I could buy but none of them helped. A friend of mine about a mile away lost all of his plants in an even shorter time that month from the same thing. To get LB this time of the year down here is a disaster because the plants are loaded with fruit that is just starting to ripen and LB can ruin most of the fruit.

I started seeing LB a little more often when I started growing fall plants but it is still fairly rare for me. I have had it three times in the fall and the last time I recognized it immediately and started the bleach spray that day and repeated it every couple of days for about 10 days and I only lost two plants and had one or two others sustain some minor damage. I think keeping up the bleach spray stopped the spread by killing the spores before they could get going in the plants that weren't showing any symptoms yet and thus it really did work on Late Blight. That was the third time I used it on LB and the most successful. The first time I waited far too long and the second time I waited a little too long and ended up losing half my plants. Just pulling out and removing the plants showing symptoms will not stop the spread of LB or at least it didn't for me the first time I tried that. I think the disease is already sending out spores when you notice the symptoms so you need to kill the spores before they can infect other nearby tomatoes. I spray every plant in the garden when I get LB and I spray the ground around the infected plants. I also increase the strength of my mix just a little when dealing with LB because it is so deadly. I'd rather have a little leaf burn than no plants.

I wish you could post some good pictures showing the disease on your plants both the whole plant and the diseased areas close up.

Bill
b54red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 11, 2013   #23
b54red
Tomatovillian™
 
b54red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tammy View Post
My tomatoes were wilting, curling and dying, my county extension agent was sure it was late blight. I went out this morning before this confirmation and heavily sprayed with the bleach solution. Do I still need to follow up with a copper product? my agent recommended copper dragon.
tammy
Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus can cause the symptoms you mentioned also; but it looks totally different than Gray Mold or Late Blight. The bleach spray will have no effect against TSWV as it is systemic once symptoms show.

Bill
b54red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 11, 2013   #24
bcday
Tomatovillian™
 
bcday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NY z5
Posts: 1,205
Default

Bill, there are pics posted in another thread.

If that is LB, I would expect to see large black blotches on the stems for the amount of damage showing on the leaves. The stems seem to be fairly clear considering the dismal condition of the foliage, and the discoloration on the leaves doesn't seem to be as black as it should for LB either.. I have strong doubts about this being LB.

I am astonished that the county extension could diagnose LB over the phone without seeing the plant or at least a pic.
bcday is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 11, 2013   #25
b54red
Tomatovillian™
 
b54red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bcday View Post
Bill, there are pics posted in another thread.

If that is LB, I would expect to see large black blotches on the stems for the amount of damage showing on the leaves. The stems seem to be fairly clear considering the dismal condition of the foliage, and the discoloration on the leaves doesn't seem to be as black as it should for LB either.. I have strong doubts about this being LB.

I am astonished that the county extension could diagnose LB over the phone without seeing the plant or at least a pic.
He couldn't over the phone unless there has been an outbreak in that area and he has seen a lot of it lately. Gray Mold and LB look very similar in many ways often being mistaken for each other. If it is Gray Mold then the plants not wrapped up with it can recover if treated early enough unless it stays rainy and then it can be kind of hard to stop.

Bill
b54red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 11, 2013   #26
tammyinwv
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: wv
Posts: 5
Default pics

I described the plants, and she seemed sure that was it. I wondered about not seeing it as well.
Here are some more pics. Since I replaced the 6 dead plants, there is only the areas shown in the first 2-3 pics that are of concern in the bed where I removed the dead ones. The others are in a nearby bed.The rest of the plants are about 2.5-3 ft all, and look good, except some are slightly less green.
Tammy
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sicktom1.jpg (467.6 KB, 405 views)
File Type: jpg sicktom2.jpg (364.7 KB, 396 views)
File Type: jpg sicktom3.jpg (311.4 KB, 396 views)
File Type: jpg sicktom4.jpg (279.2 KB, 380 views)
File Type: jpg sicktom5.jpg (322.1 KB, 386 views)
File Type: jpg sicktom7.jpg (285.9 KB, 388 views)
File Type: jpg sicktom8.jpg (266.5 KB, 383 views)
File Type: jpg sicktom9.jpg (474.9 KB, 383 views)
tammyinwv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 11, 2013   #27
tammyinwv
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: wv
Posts: 5
Default

You are right. The stems, until close to the end,look pretty good. I opened up the stems of the dead plants I pulled and they are white inside. I just posted several pics, but so far they are not showing up
Tammy
tammyinwv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 12, 2013   #28
b54red
Tomatovillian™
 
b54red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
Default

Tammy the pictures help. It does look like you have some Gray Mold so the bleach spray should help with that and the other foliage diseases. It looks like you may have the plants a little crowded which encourages plant diseases to develop. It would also help if you kept them to only a few stems at most to aid in air flow and sunlight.

The last bleach spray I used seems to have knocked back the Gray Mold and so I removed all the dead or dying leaves and sprayed with a copper fungicide as a preventive. I should know if it is effective very shortly. From my experience in my humid climate, once you get Gray Mold it keeps popping up every time it gets too wet.

How did the bleach spray work on your plants?

Bill
b54red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 12, 2013   #29
Master_Gardener
Tomatovillian™
 
Master_Gardener's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Central Indiana 6a/41
Posts: 131
Default

Good idea on testing it on a plant or two before dosing the entire garden. Thanks for calling out the change in bleach strength. I'm sure I would have missed that.
__________________
Russel
USDA: Zone 6a, Sunset Zone 41 - 15 miles NW of Indianapolis, IN

I had a problem with slugs. I tried using beer but it didn't work, until I gave it to the slugs.
Master_Gardener is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 12, 2013   #30
socalgardengal
Tomatovillian™
 
socalgardengal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
Default

Here's my update un using bleach spray on Chayote squash that had Anthracnose. I sprayed 3 days ago both tops and undersides of leaves and the soil in the pot. Today all the larger leaves are dried up and falling off but the new smaller ones at the base of the plant are ok. No leaf burn or signs of disease. Should I cut the vines completely off, as there are no new leafs growing on them? I do have a back-up plant that's doing fine. Thanks
socalgardengal is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
bleach spray


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:16 AM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★