New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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February 20, 2017 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Every situation is different and the landscaper in me wishes I could look at your yard but in most cases I recommend the no-till approach, as in layer all your amendments on top starting with newspaper/cardboard if you dont have noxious weeds. The cardboard will attract the worms and as long as food is there and it stays moist they wont leave. I did it this way and now in my third year it is black earth down to around 9 inches. I just add more leaves/manure/compost/etc once a year. Covering it with plastic will help retain water and improve tilth. Good luck!
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February 21, 2017 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Santa Maria California
Posts: 1,014
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February 21, 2017 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Santa Maria California
Posts: 1,014
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Cole, got a short break in rain.. I have been digging with 5 inch wide trenching shovel. For funsies tried a regular square shovel and in went right in!.. Made a 24 foot pass in about 15 minutes but it's a lot of work for old dude.. I think two more passes and I'll be at three feet wide by 24 feet long. Savin worms!. Jimbo .
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February 22, 2017 | #19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Santa Maria California
Posts: 1,014
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February 22, 2017 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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If your going to make it a raised bed do the boards first. I never mix my stuff into the native soil because it is hard-pan clay and to much work, plus if you work it while wet it can ruin your soil structure. I'd add the boards, lay down paper/cardboard then put all the good stuff on top. Here are my beds. I dont use boards but I cover with plastic. these have never been tilled and I just re-edge yearly (with a nifty machine called a bed edger) then add manure etc and cover. If you look close you can see the evil Bermuda roots along the bed edges.
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February 22, 2017 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Santa Maria California
Posts: 1,014
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BVV , after beds are constructed and it drys out , do I remove grass ? Then do I layer the soil with paper or cardboard and then put a mix to fill up the rest of the raised bed and cover that with plastic or something? Thanks,
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February 22, 2017 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Thats what I'd do. Grass can stay if you cover with plastic or cardboard or something. I only use plastic because I have to. I am going to remove my plastic this year mid summer then mulch and see if that works. Plants seem to taste better when mulched to me.
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February 22, 2017 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Santa Maria California
Posts: 1,014
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I only removed grass for first 2 feet and that took one hr or so . Right now sod is in big lumps. I'll cover with cardboard after raised bed installed. Then fill remaining box with new mix and put mulch on top 3 inches. On my next row I'll not disturb the soil structure but go over existing ground with same procedure. . Hope that's right.. Thanks BVV.
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February 22, 2017 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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I know you said it rained but make sure to wet the cardboard/newspaper when you put it down. Here are some pics of when I first made the rows. there is cardboard under the rows as well. I had a fantastic garden that year so trust me tilling is not needed in most cases.
Last edited by BigVanVader; February 22, 2017 at 01:13 PM. |
February 22, 2017 | #25 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Santa Maria California
Posts: 1,014
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February 22, 2017 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Yeah his thread is what I went off of. The cardboard killed all my grass except the Bermuda.
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February 23, 2017 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Santa Maria California
Posts: 1,014
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BVV, going to Home Depot to pickup stakes . I'm going to use the cedar fence boards I have. Do you think the heavy paper Worth mentioned would be good instead of cardboard? Also getting perlite. People are reporting bug issues with chips and things. Any ideas on safe compost and peat. Don't wanna bring pests into the garden. I gotta get this show on the road!. Also picking up Light Warrior for solo cup germination. Thanks man!jimbo.
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February 23, 2017 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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I wouldn't worry to much about what paper products you use. I used all kinds of stuff. The rolls of paper will make it go faster. Refrigerator boxes work great as well. I get all my amendments from a commercial supplier where it is all stored indoors, so I don't know what would be a good product at typical big box stores.
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February 23, 2017 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Jimbo I am here.
The brown paper is unbleached brown raw wood pulp paper like you would make a paper sack out of. It is used for drop cloth or what ever in the paint section. It is 3 feet wide and comes in big rolls. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Easy-Mask...2108/204363635 I dont know if it is the exact stuff I have or not. Last edited by Worth1; February 23, 2017 at 01:26 PM. |
February 23, 2017 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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I had a huge place coverd in grass.
I didnt have time to screw around so I bought the stuff rolled it out and weighted it down the best I could. Then I cut X's where I wanted the plants and planted them. Then I covered the whole area with about a foot of fluffed hay. This all packed down and did a fare job of stopping grass and weeds. |
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