New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 27, 2017 | #16 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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March 27, 2017 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: steamy southern Arkansas
Posts: 155
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Not sure how you folks upload your pictures?!
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March 27, 2017 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Click on "post reply" and then click on the button that says "manage attachments."
Alternatively, you can host your pics on a separate site like imgur, and link to the image with the IMG button, the little mountain with a yellow background. |
March 27, 2017 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: steamy southern Arkansas
Posts: 155
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March 29, 2017 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: steamy southern Arkansas
Posts: 155
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I think the issue may be too warm of temps.. My thermometer reads mid to upper 80's.. have even hit 90.
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March 29, 2017 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: germany
Posts: 190
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That really doesn't look good... My suggestion would be to put them in a different potting mix and see if they'll do better.
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March 29, 2017 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: steamy southern Arkansas
Posts: 155
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someone I know, who's plants are doing great, has the same set up but the only difference between ours is the temp. I don't think the medium is the issue here.
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March 29, 2017 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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I don't see any Perlite or other aeration in your potting mix, by 3 weeks to 1 month time you should have much much bigger plants.I think your mix is too dense, and likely too wet, the roots aren't able to take up nutrients very well in a dense mix, especially if it's too wet. I DO NOT think it's the temperatures. My seedlings are always started when it it in the high 80s to low 90s, I start them late August in South Florida and it is hot and humid, but they grow very well. By one month they are about 5-6 inches tall with thick stems and 4 sets of true leaves. I start them out with dense planting, but they are transplanted individually to their own 3" pot by 2 weeks time. Of course they have a full set of true leaves by then.
I know it's your mix, if you want them to grow, your going to have to get them a better mix. Sorry, I can tell you don't want to hear that, but it's the truth. I mean this to be helpful. |
March 29, 2017 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: steamy southern Arkansas
Posts: 155
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Quote:
These plants aren't really one month.. I found the dates I started them (3/4), did the math (took about 7 days to germinate- some more, some less. just average of 7). Plus a few days till emergence.. So they are really closer to 2 weeks old since the seed first put out a little root. I've seen where tomato seedlings grow best between 65 and 70. Last edited by ARgardener; March 29, 2017 at 09:48 PM. |
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March 29, 2017 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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If they are only 2 weeks old, you aren't that far behind.
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March 29, 2017 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: steamy southern Arkansas
Posts: 155
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Okay that's what I was hoping.. I've been so so busy that time has felt much longer. I thought they were older/ planted earlier.
An aside, I hope i didn't come across as rude or anything. Certainly not my intent- I appreciate you replying and trying to help me out! |
March 29, 2017 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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No problem, and no rudeness perceived.
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March 29, 2017 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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I agree their is a weird 'wait game' in seed starting. We look and check and seems like
nothing is happening. The lights 2 inches above. Boom, the plants are touching. They do look sloowww going. Really slow. Give it a few more days but i think something is up with the soil or fungus gnats or some other soil issue unknown. I've been through it all and a few years ago used a familiar 'sterile seed starting mix' that must have beed the factory bottom of the barrel that turned to cement. I no longer trust any and make my own and sterilize. Heat treat and keep bags in the freezer until i need them. (freezing kills nothing but heat treating does) |
March 29, 2017 | #29 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: steamy southern Arkansas
Posts: 155
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Quote:
The root development seems to be going... I've got roots coming out of the bottom of the trays and such. Not sure. Some say I'm not behind, some say I kind of am; still others say I'm way behind. |
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March 30, 2017 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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Problem solving is just tossing out possible ideas, causes, solutions. Not sure anyone
was being definitive. Start date not clear. Not seeing a pic right away so just guessing... It is all guessing without being there. Not even suggesting you have fungus gnats but that is what seedlings look like as the larvae feed under the soil on root hairs causing slow growth. Yellow sticky traps will not solve it but are a good warning sign. But that is ruled out. So now it is just a waiting game. Personally i would start another tray asap while waiting. My insurance method. And i'd pot up one of those in fresh soil for a test. Here is a photo test i did watching a headless seedling out of curiosity. Seeded Feb-20. First pic it is in the lower right corner. Last pic this morning 5am. +that tray is headed to the compost. I potted up what i needed last week. Planted a dozen seed of each variety and just need 3-4 plants of each. I cull and take the strongest. That little fella was just a curiosity. (no c, true leaves stuck) Just showing a common timeline. It can go a week or so different. I only use p-towel method if a seed cell is empty being difficult germination. |
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