Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old April 16, 2015   #16
Worth1
Tomatovillian™
 
Worth1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
Default

Can you get a mushroom colony to grow in the wood chips.?
The right kind of mushrooms will break down wood quicker than anything.

The other option is to add your choice of nitrogen.

Worth
Worth1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 16, 2015   #17
AlittleSalt
BANNED FOR LIFE
 
AlittleSalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
Default

jojomojo, I found this site this morning that might help http://www.pawneebuttesseed.com/seed...ation-grasses/
AlittleSalt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 16, 2015   #18
jojomojo
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 14
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
Can you get a mushroom colony to grow in the wood chips.?
The right kind of mushrooms will break down wood quicker than anything.

The other option is to add your choice of nitrogen.

Worth
Maybe. My manure/wood chip compost pile was growing some monster sized fungus "roots" (like a carrot) and there were mushrooms growing up out of the chips spread on the ground around the pile, but last summer was unusually wet (as in, it actually rained). In this climate, its going to take a lot of water to keep a wood pile moist. It'll be some work, but I can manage it (we have an irrigation ditch, but we're not set up to pull from it yet).

Is there an inoculant that I can add? Is there a way to use the fungus in my compost pile (if I see it again this summer) to make a "tea" to spray on the wood chip pile? I imagine just keeping it wet would work too. I'm sure the fungal spores in the compost came from the wood chips in the first place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlittleSalt View Post
jojomojo, I found this site this morning that might help http://www.pawneebuttesseed.com/seed...ation-grasses/
Thank you for that!
jojomojo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 16, 2015   #19
Marcus1
Tomatovillian™
 
Marcus1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 124
Default

jojomojo, I would dig several holes at different depths and fill them with water and see if the water percolates down and out to see if there's any way to flush the salts out. If going down a foot or so helps the water percolate I would see if any farmers in your area have a tractor and ripper that can scarify the soil to that depth then flood the area like the recommendation says. Short of flushing the salts out as high as they are I don't think your going to have very good results with anything you plant even salt tolerant grasses. Salt destroys soil structure so the ripping won't hurt and can explain the compaction. If you can flood and flush the soil then add copious amounts of organic matter and look into adding a humic acid product, they actually mine a lot of the stuff in NE New Mexico and there are many articles that show the benefits of humic acid for reclaiming saline and sodic soils.

Good luck
Marcus
Marcus1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 16, 2015   #20
jojomojo
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 14
Default

We did a perc test last summer, 2 ft deep and hit water. I filled the hole anyway and I just stopped checking after a few days to see if it drained I imagine I have a nice piece of land to create a pond!

We have a 9N and I think a middle buster (would that work?). The area slopes from N to S. So the south edge of the field is lower and at the corner there's an open irrigation ditch (that nobody uses), so it might work to flush water into that.

The TerraPro I just ordered is a humic acid product. I'm hoping it will at least lock up enough of the sodium to get a clay busting crop growing. If I can improve drainage, I'm hoping maybe some of the salts will flush deeper down. Keeping a cover on the soil at all times should help with evaporation/capillary action so the salt doesn't just creep back to the surface too.
jojomojo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 16, 2015   #21
AlittleSalt
BANNED FOR LIFE
 
AlittleSalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
Default

lol, it made me think Salt Water Pond. You could raise your own shrimp and crabs in New Mexico.
AlittleSalt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 16, 2015   #22
Redbaron
Tomatovillian™
 
Redbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jojomojo View Post
Alfalfa - yes! I thought I listed that. I love using that to prep my raised beds with and watering with alfalfa tea in the summer.

Any suggestions on composting wood chips without manure? I usually use alfalfa to heat up a compost pile, but I'm not sure if its enough for a pile of wood chips.
Green manure works, so does coffee grounds, but you need a lot.
__________________
Scott

AKA The Redbaron

"Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system."
Bill Mollison
co-founder of permaculture
Redbaron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 16, 2015   #23
Keiththibodeaux
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 587
Default

You are looking a 3-5 year process, and even then you will not make a permanent change in the pH. Until that time, just go with mounded/raised beds with good stuff on top of the existing.

You said it was 3 acres and compacted. You might look into someone coming onsite with a big tractor and a sub-soil breaker. But that is also and expensive and semi-long term proposition.
Keiththibodeaux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 16, 2015   #24
AlittleSalt
BANNED FOR LIFE
 
AlittleSalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
Default

I've read that turnips and radishes overwinter and help break up clay soils. They also add nutrients, but radishes start to smell bad as the plants age. You don't want either to go to seed because they tend to turn into weeds.
AlittleSalt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 17, 2015   #25
jojomojo
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 14
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keiththibodeaux View Post
You are looking a 3-5 year process, and even then you will not make a permanent change in the pH. Until that time, just go with mounded/raised beds with good stuff on top of the existing.

You said it was 3 acres and compacted. You might look into someone coming onsite with a big tractor and a sub-soil breaker. But that is also and expensive and semi-long term proposition.
Yep, I expect this to be a long process. I have no idea if the rest of the property is compacted, just this quarter acre (the rest is planned for pasture rather than garden, seems to have more sand, but its all alkaline/saline). I will say I am tempted to work on turning it all into decent pasture and selling the house. And when I buy another property, consider the soil report just as important as a home inspection

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlittleSalt View Post
I've read that turnips and radishes overwinter and help break up clay soils. They also add nutrients, but radishes start to smell bad as the plants age. You don't want either to go to seed because they tend to turn into weeds.
Turnips would be great, but they are salt sensitive. I'm really not worried about anything becoming weedy though (or stinky lol). All I have are weeds, at least turnips would be a beneficial weed.
jojomojo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 17, 2015   #26
Worth1
Tomatovillian™
 
Worth1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jojomojo View Post
Yep, I expect this to be a long process. I have no idea if the rest of the property is compacted, just this quarter acre (the rest is planned for pasture rather than garden, seems to have more sand, but its all alkaline/saline). I will say I am tempted to work on turning it all into decent pasture and selling the house. And when I buy another property, consider the soil report just as important as a home inspection



Turnips would be great, but they are salt sensitive. I'm really not worried about anything becoming weedy though (or stinky lol). All I have are weeds, at least turnips would be a beneficial weed.

I have known people to buy houses with big back yards thinking they were going to put a garden in.
Just under about 2 inches of soil was nothing but busted up concrete and construction garbage.
They used the back yards for a land fill.

Then there was the subdivision that was abandoned in the Houston area because they found out the yards were contaminated with chemicals.
They had used the area to dump toxic waste.
Remember Love Canal?


Worth
Worth1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 17, 2015   #27
AlittleSalt
BANNED FOR LIFE
 
AlittleSalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
I have known people to buy houses with big back yards thinking they were going to put a garden in.
Just under about 2 inches of soil was nothing but busted up concrete and construction garbage.
They used the back yards for a land fill.

Then there was the subdivision that was abandoned in the Houston area because they found out the yards were contaminated with chemicals.
They had used the area to dump toxic waste.
Remember Love Canal?


Worth
Bricklayers have been known to bury thousands of brick in backyards of new houses. I've seen more than once. One of the costs on a bricklayer's total bill is how many brick were laid...used.
AlittleSalt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 17, 2015   #28
Worth1
Tomatovillian™
 
Worth1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlittleSalt View Post
Bricklayers have been known to bury thousands of brick in backyards of new houses. I've seen more than once. One of the costs on a bricklayer's total bill is how many brick were laid...used.
I wouldn't pay a brick layer for anything other than what was on the house.
I have noticed it is hard to find good brick layers anymore.
Most of the mortar they mix just crumbles in your fingers like sand.
They dont use enough Portland cement to cut back on costs.
That and they dont soak the bricks and the things suck all of the water out of the mortar before it has a chance to set.

This isn't something I just read on line I was taught to lay brick and stone by a stone mason when I was in High School.
I helped him on weekends.


Worth
Worth1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 17, 2015   #29
jojomojo
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 14
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
Remember Love Canal?
I'm afraid that was before my time. My good friend Google helped me out though. What a mess.
jojomojo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 17, 2015   #30
Worth1
Tomatovillian™
 
Worth1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jojomojo View Post
I'm afraid that was before my time. My good friend Google helped me out though. What a mess.
Same thing happened in Houston, kids were getting sores from playing in the yard if I recall.
A friend of mine from Buffalo New York used to ride with his dad to dump hazardous waste.

The place they dumped it at was Love Canal.

Here is a link to one in Houston.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.b2w&cad=rja

Not to get off subject of your land but the statement of a soil test made me think of it.

Just a warning to people thinking about moving and buying property.
They can pretty up a hell hole and you would never know it.

Worth

Last edited by Worth1; April 17, 2015 at 02:03 PM.
Worth1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:23 PM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★