Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 1, 2010 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tucson
Posts: 659
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Count me in for the CRW, I bought 7 ft tall wire last year, 200ft roll was about $250. It was a lot of money, but I can put the shade cloth on top of them and not have to use additional anchors/structures for shade cloth.
I set in t posts at the end of my raised beds, then run the wire through the cages and attach to the t posts. will get pictures soon. |
March 1, 2010 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 707
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Quote:
on the other hand if your tieing to stakes or fencing or overhead wireing, how much time are you taking to re-tie constantly as the plant grows, 1500 plants require an awful lot of labor to keep them supported. I only have to assure everything stays within the cage. As the season progresses they grow out the top and cascade back over the outside of the cage. No labor, no ties having to be redone or cutting of nutrients. and I'm 62, are you telling me I wasted my money the past few years? Should I expect not to see 92! Camo |
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March 1, 2010 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Camp Dix, KY
Posts: 39
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and I'm 62, are you telling me I wasted my money the past few years? Should I
expect not to see 92! . Let's hope you do. The way I have slowed down the last few years I doubt I will be doing much gardening at 83. Maybe supervising.(Where is the whip cracking smiley)? In all reality, both stakes and cages have their place, just depends on a persons long term plans and initial cost. Stakes are cheaper up front to get started, and the big boys that raise by the acre must figure they are cheaper. That is who I sell to, the big operators that buy by the thousand or neighbors that buy by the dozen. Freight kills everybody else. Myself, I prefer stakes, mine are free, the crooked ones that I won't sell to a customer, my garden is not pretty. I have a neighbor that uses concrete wire cages. They are probably 20 years old, piles them up at the end of the garden at the end of the season he has a pretty 1/2 acre garden. In the end I think a person has to learn all they can about the options and choose what is best for them. P.S. I ran into an old friend that I sawed some oak stakes for in '97, he said he gave them away this year, he was unable to garden anymore. Said they were still good, little shorter than when new. He is the guy that gave me the tutorial on caring for them at end of season. |
March 1, 2010 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: S Florida
Posts: 14
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I agree with Broken Bar. I use the long metal T posts too with heavy twine. The posts can be reused forever of years and the twine is inexpensive and very adaptable.
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March 1, 2010 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,818
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For 1500 tomatoes, I'd probably use the sprawl method. Use straw around the plants and along the rows to keep the maters from laying in the mud.
Easy and cheap.
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Barbee |
March 1, 2010 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 707
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Barbee,
Obviously your not 62! Had to give up sprawling years ago, can't reach anything down on the ground anymore. If I got down there, I'd need a crane to get me back up. Straw only makes it harder to find tomatoes in among sprawlers! I can sit on a five gallon bucket, or my little folding stool and pick from cages, weed with my scuffle hoe, water, fertilize, prune, search for critters, etc. or just devour a nice juicy tomato if I feel inclined. I wouldn't be able to do any of that if they were sprawled. |
March 1, 2010 | #22 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 707
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Camo |
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March 1, 2010 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 343
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I've seen tomato cages used in tandem for larger plants. You place one cage like you ordinarily would, then attach an inverted second cage to the top of the first one. I could be wrong, but I thought I saw that used on one of Brad Gates photos on his website.
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March 2, 2010 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 942
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"How do you stake your tomatoes?"
Grow dwarfs and nearly not an issue!
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Vince |
March 2, 2010 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: West Plains, Mo.
Posts: 47
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As others have refered too, I use T-Posts' made from landscape timbers, with wire on each side of the T. Run another wire 10"s above ground level to tie drop strings too (use baling twine). Alternate every other strand to to opposite side. About once a week wrap new growth of plant around string. I desucker constantly, but one could add more drops as more stems grow.
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March 2, 2010 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 25
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I have a small garden of about 15 - 16, 18 gallon containers. I have tried single 10' stakes, cages, 10' rebar, and 3 10' rebar conected at the top like a tee pee.
The 3 pieces of rebar seem to work best. I have a freind that has a lot of bamboo on his farm that I will try this year. It is easier to tie the plant to three post instead of one. The cages, for me are sometimes hard to get to the middle of the plant. John |
March 2, 2010 | #27 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,818
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Quote:
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Barbee |
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March 2, 2010 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pleasure Island, NC 8a
Posts: 1,162
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Raised beds ( 20 inches high) & CRW cages (8' tall sunk 1 1/2' into the bed) for me! Growing the determinates & semi-determinates in 30 gallon containers - stakes there are salvage from house repair - funky but functional & free.
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