Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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January 18, 2011 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Back in da U.P.
Posts: 1,848
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water, and weed, more.
fertilize more. last year was kinda busy, and the garden didn't get the care it needed. cage them. i let them sprawl last year, and the varmints, had good eatin. i should get the soil tested. keith |
January 19, 2011 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Clara CA
Posts: 1,125
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Chucker- nothing wrong with switching from organic to synthetic especially in container culture. Its just too darn boom and bust with organics in contaienrs for me. I generally use two synthetic ferts in my containers as I'm still testing which ones I like best. Mostly I use Lilly Miller slow release 18-6-12 and mix it in the soil, then supplement with Foilage Pro and Pro-tekt. Nothing wrong with Miracle Grow either as its very affordable and works great, I like to use 24-8-16 Miracle Grow some times.
As for things I'm doing differently 1) I'm growing tomatoes mostly in containers this year, mostly traditional pots and a few swc's. Last year the tomatoes that were grown in containers tasted so much better than the inground tomatoes and I blame my heavy adobe clay soil that holds too much water. The soil I use in containers is fast and grows great tasting tomatoes. I sacrifice in size a little bit but thats ok. 2) For the few tomatoes I em growing in the ground I'm switching to a drip system where I'm getting better coverage in the root zone. Last year I used 1 gph inline 1/4" tubing that was spaced at 1 foot intervals, this year I've got 1/2 gph 1/4" tubing that is spaced at 6" intervals. 3) I'm not growing as many 'new to me' varieties as my space is limited and I have a few homemade crosses I need the room for. But it will be fun to see what comes out of these crosses. Damon |
January 19, 2011 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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*Hopefully this year get my trellises built and the soaker hoses down before I plant the tomatoes.
*Try to keep to my spray regimen better. Seems every year I have lapses and pay dearly for them. *Find some straw for mulch. *Be more merciless in pulling out sick plants instead of trying to nurse them back to health. *Keep a good supply of seedlings ready to fill the spots from the above action. *Give away more tomatoes than last year. *Label my tomatoes as I pick them so I don't have to try to keep them organized on the counter. *Take more and better photos. |
January 19, 2011 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,803
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I keep a soft pen with me as i pick fruit off i mark the fruit with name before they come inside. Florida weave saved me , as each plants in the ground has a pole tied to the bottom of the plant for the first 30 days i cut any branches off which want to leave the center stem this early. At some time i let the plant go, if it is strong supported by my work, the huge leaves and fruit is growing through the string. Or i help them, at 4-5 ft maybe 50 days i left branches go out. Now the Florida string i tie the branches to the string. And watch for any branches coming out on the bottom, after 60 days some will come out from the ground i cut this off, doing nothing for the plants. Last year i had a 7ft plant on Black Cherry loving one, late July I found behind the 1 center stem in the ground a 2nd one coming up, it was 5 ft high, no fruit or flowers, cut this off at the ground. I lay this on the grass as i do this some times i cut a lot, the plants love it. Into the Compost they go, if you do cut a lot in July watch what the plants do? bigger fruit, more air, better color, more sun, stronger plants for sure.
I use Salt Marsh Hay.has no seeds comes from the coast here in summer. if I don't finish it all I save it inside because its dry, over the winter here. no weeds now. Last edited by FILMNET; January 19, 2011 at 12:30 PM. |
January 19, 2011 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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Good ideas about labeling tomatoes in the field. How many times have I said 'I think this one is the sudduth and this one is the regular brandywine but Im not sure"
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January 19, 2011 | #21 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Not spending so much time at most message sites I visit reading and often posting.
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Carolyn |
January 19, 2011 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,971
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January 19, 2011 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Michigan Zone 4b
Posts: 1,291
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*Not grow so many different varieties of tomatoes and vegetables in garden.
*Will not try to cram in so many plants and vines in 12x16 greenhouse..(New) I grew 50 tomato plants alone in ground and pots ..Spaced good, but by the end of season..combined with everything else growing..it was a jungle! *Put up better fencing around garden so the free range chickens cant get in and have a picnic. *Try not to do everything on the honey do list in one season...Having a big garden, Building a GH, Buying Sheep w/twin lambs..Buying milking goats w/tripletts, building milking parlor, hatching out 60 chicks in spring (well I didnt hatch them the chicks did, but had to feed them all LOL)..Building new fences.. *Try to stick with #1 |
January 19, 2011 | #24 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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No, it's them plus any other live tennis that the Tennis Channel or ESPN2 or NBC or Versus features.
So there.
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Carolyn |
January 19, 2011 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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Build some of Ray's new and improved (and easier to build) earth tainers.
As soon as the foundation work is done on my house, I will re do the watering methods with drip irrigation vs. spray now. I hope to reduce leaf disease significantly. I will be using a combination of actinovate, serenade and daconil this year with the same goal in mind. Build a four wheel "tray" to dolly out earth tainers from the garage to the outdoors so I can start earlier without fear of killing frost. |
January 19, 2011 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northern Minnesota - zone 3
Posts: 3,231
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Try to remember all the things I was going to do differently this year .....
I found a handy change apron that my son had when he worked at some restaurant. It's got 4 or 5 handy sized pockets across the front. I going to stock it with a little spiral notebook, pencils, a sharpy marker, some pre-cut lengths of string, and a very small pruner that I found at a dollar store. I will hang it by the back door and TRY to remember to put it on when going out to check the garden. I can't begin to count the times I've wished for one or more of these items and didn't want to go back to get them.
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Dee ************** |
January 19, 2011 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: England
Posts: 512
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Grow more tomato plants.
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January 19, 2011 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pleasure Island, NC 8a
Posts: 1,162
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Grow in ground this year!
First time in years to be in the ground - not in raised beds or containers! Going to be mighty different - I have had baaaad luck with pruning down here - seems to give easy ingress to disease - & I am sooo accustomed to my 8' tall CRW cages! Will be learning Florida Weave for my big beautiful indeterminants! |
January 20, 2011 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 581
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If you are having disease issues at the pruning site, try sealing the spot with a pruning sealer, or grafting wax.
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January 20, 2011 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pleasure Island, NC 8a
Posts: 1,162
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where does one locate this grafting wax you speak of? (or pruning sealer for that matter)
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