Florida weave skeptic

[FILMNET]

I had over 10 ft with 3 plants between the 2 8ft sticks.

[attml]

Not to hijack your thread but I put a lot of thought into tomato support over the winter. I seriously considered doing a weave setup but decided against it. It always seems like when I have staked and tied in the past it caused plant damage as I would have to adjust for growth and it was just kind of a pain. I know some folks use it with great success so I am am not going to say too much negative about it. I just know it wasn't for me.

This year I went with 5 foot concrete reinforcement wire. I have to say I am extremely pleased! I was able to get 35 cages out of a 150 foot roll. I made my cages a little larger diameter then the top rung of a standard tomato cage you would but at the hardware store (apx 16 inches). It was $139 for the concrete wire at a local masonry supply company and I bought (7)-20ft pieces of 3/8 inch rebar to use as the anchor. The 20 foot sectons broke perfectly into (5) - 4ft sections so I came out with (35) 4ft pieces of rebar. The rebar came out to $52. Fortunately, the masonry supply company had a rebar cutter right at the stack where you picked them up which made cutting easy. I made 35 cuts in about 10 minutes. The whole project with zip ties was abot $200.

When I went to install the cages I fit them over over the plant then hammered the rebar in two feet then used heavy zip ties to attach the cage to the rebar. Once you have one of those setup you will never go back to the flimsy hardware store tomato cages again! We live on a large open secton of water and we get some pretty heavy winds sometimes and so far the cages haven even flinched. Here are afew pictures.

attml,

Nice Job!

I think most of us who support their tomato plants as opposed to allowing them to sprawl, use either all CRW cages, all trellis weave (Florida Weave), or a combination of both. I have a modified Florida Weave support in four beds and large CRW cages in two beds. I made my CRW cages a larger diameter than yours because it seems to provide more stability for the cages with a stake or fence (in my case) to attach them to.

I use the weave system in some beds because after I have trimmed the lower branches from my plants to prevent ground contact and rain splashing; it leaves me room to plant radishes, carrots, or lettuce against the stems of the tomatoes. It allows me to better utilize available space to grow more vegetables. The cages are probably the best support affording the lowest maintenance, but they simply require more of my limited space in raised beds.

Ted

[Mark0820]

So far, the Florida weave seems to be working quite well. We will see once the plants bear the weight of full grown fruit.

I do have a question though. As I was adding a new row of string, I was pulling the string as tight as I could. I realized this was making each row of string below the top row loose and ineffective at bearing the weight of the plant. I have now changed my strategy and am keeping the top row of string loose enough that the rows of string below it are still tight. Am I doing this correctly by keeping the top row of string a little loose and not so tight?

[Jake]

I've used the weave in the past with success. This year, however, I've opted to try cattle panels. I've sandwiched my plants growing in raised beds between two panels. The panels are attached to t-posts and I've raised them up 16 inches from the top of the bed to give more height. I suppose many of the plants will still grow taller than the panels - but I think they can be trained to go over the top and back down the other side. I hope this works!

[tam91]

I'd go ahead and make it fairly tight. If the lower ones are loosening up, the top one will probably loosen up in time also.

I'm using baling twine, it stretches just a little. If your string is getting that loose, that could be a problem over time.

[Mark0820]

Originally Posted by tam91

I'd go ahead and make it fairly tight. If the lower ones are loosening up, the top one will probably loosen up in time also.

I'm using baling twine, it stretches just a little. If your string is getting that loose, that could be a problem over time.

I probably didn't explain this very well (actually it is difficult to describe). The lower strings are not becoming loose on their own.

As an example, lets say I have two rows of strings supporting my plants. When I added the third row of string, I pulled the string so tight that the stems curved upwards and therefore were no longer touching either the first or second row of string. Thus, my plants were fully supported only by the third row of string. The strings only became loose because I pulled the third row of string so tight it drew the stems of the plants away from the first and second row of string. I don't know if this is any clearer or not.

Therefore, I am thinking I might be pulling the top row of string too tight.

Originally Posted by Jake

I've used the weave in the past with success. This year, however, I've opted to try cattle panels. I've sandwiched my plants growing in raised beds between two panels. The panels are attached to t-posts and I've raised them up 16 inches from the top of the bed to give more height. I suppose many of the plants will still grow taller than the panels - but I think they can be trained to go over the top and back down the other side. I hope this works!

Jake,

I like the idea! Since many of us grow in raised beds, and most of the raised beds are 4' X 8'; how long are the cattle panels you use? How much money is invested in two cattle panels and the t-posts for a bed?

I think the concept is also good for trellising beans, peas, and cucumbers, but most of the "cattle panels" I've seen are powder coasted to prevent rust. It also makes the surface pretty slick. I can understand how stiff vined tomatoes can grow up between them, but I wonder if they may be a little slick for other vineing crops to grow and attach to them. What do you think?

Ted

[Jake]

My beds are 16 ft plus a few inches long. The cattle panels are, conveniently, 16 ft long. Needless to say, this works really well with my setup. They could be cut - probably with a saw or bolt cutters. One panel would work for the 4X8 beds.

I paid $19.99 for each panel. I'm not sure how much for the t-posts, as I inherited them when I bought my home. But I don't think they cost too much - $6-$8 per post I think

Mark,

I think the more relaxed string is better because it allows all of string rows to be involved in supporting the tomato vines. Since you are using baling twine, it is fairly small diameter; and could possibly cut into vines if all the weight is on one string. When I string mine, I put up all the string rows before I even plant the tomatoes and then weave the tomatoes into the string as the vines grow. I also hang some of those plastic covered garden stakes from the top string (or in my case, firing strip) down through the strings to create equal spaces for each variety. The garden stakes prevent the vines from sliding over into it's neighbors area.

Ted

[FILMNET]

Thank god i used wooden sticks last year, the string i stamped to the wood stick, ever other day if the string is not work i stamped it. Easy for my 5-6 string.

[Mark0820]

Originally Posted by tedln

Mark,

I think the more relaxed string is better because it allows all of string rows to be involved in supporting the tomato vines. Since you are using baling twine, it is fairly small diameter; and could possibly cut into vines if all the weight is on one string. When I string mine, I put up all the string rows before I even plant the tomatoes and then weave the tomatoes into the string as the vines grow. I also hang some of those plastic covered garden stakes from the top string (or in my case, firing strip) down through the strings to create equal spaces for each variety. The garden stakes prevent the vines from sliding over into it's neighbors area.

Ted

Ted,

The plastic covered garden stakes are a great idea. I have a few plants that want to slide over into it's neighbors area.

I think you are right about the relaxed string. In the long run, the plant will be supported by all rows of string.

Mark

[tam91]

Sometimes I just tie a short piece of baling twine crosswise every so often, to keep plants from leaning on their neighbors.

[Mark0820]

Originally Posted by tam91

Sometimes I just tie a short piece of baling twine crosswise every so often, to keep plants from leaning on their neighbors.

There is another good idea.

[Fred Hempel]

We use the Florida Weave -- 100 ft sections with 6' T-posts at the ends and 6' 2X2 fir or redwood posts at 10' intervals in-between.

Photograph is here: http://baianicchia.blogspot.com/2011/06/vining-up.html