Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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May 12, 2011 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Fruit are not the same as Cherokee Purple. A little flatter,
a little smaller, close in flavor but not the same, and of course more of them, as has been mentioned. I think it was originally a bee-made cross that was grown out and selected from multiple plants in the F-{2,3,4,...} generations until it was stable, based on the differences from Cherokee Purple fruit.
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May 12, 2011 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 2,984
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I obtained seeds for Spudakee directly from Bill Malin, and have grown it for several years. I've grown it side by side with Cherokee Purple at 3 or 4 times, and can say that it is not the same animal. For me Spudakee gives more uniform size tomatoes that do not look the same in cross section, not quite as meaty, but generally the same flavor. Also, the Spudakee vine is not as compact or as dense foliaged as Cherokee Purple, but starts setting fruit earlier, sets more fruit per cluster, produces more fruit, sets fruit in higher temperatures, and endures weather conditions better than Cherokee Purple.
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May 13, 2011 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I have kept the Spudakee to 2 stems and it now has at least 42 fruits set. Could be more but it was a quick count up each main stem. It still seems to be setting with temps in the 90s. I sure hope they taste as good as they produce and so far no sign of fusarium. Below is a picture showing some of them.
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May 22, 2011 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: prairieville la
Posts: 132
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B54Red.......... where can I get the Spudakee seeds......... I'm in the south aswell....... I'm losing alot of blooms on my CP and Big Reds....... Thanks, brengolio
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May 22, 2011 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Zone 4 Lake Minnetonka, MN
Posts: 967
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May 22, 2011 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Posts: 222
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May 22, 2011 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: prairieville la
Posts: 132
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thankyou both............. I'll try to get some for the fall garden........ again thanks
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May 22, 2011 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I started a few Spudakee for my late summer and fall crop about a week ago. It will have to be really tough to make it during that time of the year; but I have high hopes for it.
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May 22, 2011 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Washington
Posts: 97
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Quote:
For a 7gal container, must the indeterminates be trimmed to a single leader? How many leaders (and therfore more fruit production) can you muster out of say a 7 gal, 10 gal, or 15 gal pot? By-the-way I have been lurking on the "Container Growing" forums over the last few days trying to school myself in pot size, medium, etc. First time growing tomatoes last year and had a couple of cherries in pots. Hadn't considered large fruited til now. I have more plants (1st time from seed) than I have room in the raised bed and I do have a few large pots and a few smaller pots that I'd like to press into service....as long as it is reasonable to expect fruit. Don't want to spend $10 or more on potting mix and fish fertilizer, etc for only two Stump-of-the-World (or Teresenko 6, Red Brandywine, Brad's Black Heart, Indian Stripe, Orlov Yellow, the list goes on). And now back to the Spudakee thread. I should post this in the other forum for container growing. |
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May 23, 2011 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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JoeP, if you have seedlings ready to plant you should have no trouble making a fairly large crop from either Stump or Indian Stripe. They both put on fruit early and frequently. I can't speak to the others you mentioned as I have not grown them yet.
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May 23, 2011 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: prairieville la
Posts: 132
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B54red............ I got the Stump and Indian Stripe ordered............ I will start them as soon as I get the seeds in for the falll............ One question........... you mentioned that you start extra seeds so that you can pull plants out as you see fit and put another plant in it's place,.. do you put the new plant in the same spot as the infected one?
thanks, brengolio |
May 23, 2011 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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[JoeP's question about container size]
Slightly off-topic, and there many, many threads that discuss this elsewhere, but 5 gallon is a bit small for a big, indeterminate beefsteak like Spudakee. It did well in an 18-gallon tote converted to a self-watering container (so about 15 gallons of container mix). I usually stick to small-fruited varieties, 4 oz or less average fruit size, in 4 to 7 gallon buckets or nursery containers. (I cut the bottoms out or drill 1" holes all over the bottoms of small containers, too, so that the plant can root into the soil under the container and get more water when the weather is dry.) People grow big-fruited plants in those smaller containers, but it can require watering a couple of times a day in hot weather, fertilizing more often because the frequent watering washes fertilizer out faster, etc. (Only getting 3 fruit from a big mid-season beefsteak or heart, the weather can do that, even growing them in the ground.)
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-- alias Last edited by dice; May 24, 2011 at 02:57 PM. Reason: clarity, soil->container mix, etc |
May 23, 2011 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 2,984
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Tying the topics together, my experience has been that Indian Stripe will grow and produce nearly as well in a 7-gallon container as in the ground, but Spudakee will not. When I say 7-gallon container, I mean a black tree tub filled with potting mix, with a T-bar driven thru the bottom to spike it to the ground and give something to tie the vine to, and not a fancy self-watering "tainer" thing.
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May 23, 2011 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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brengolio, I replant in the same spot. If the plant died from fusarium I am now treating the spot with a dilute bleach solution to see if it helps. I did this late last summer with some of my plantings and it seemed to help; but planting at that time down here is so difficult that I would like a better test.
The last tomato bed I planted a week ago got every spot treated before a tomato was put in a couple of days later. Last year this bed had only one tomato survive without fusarium so it is one of my worst infected beds so I thought it would be a good spot to test the bleach treatment. I don't expect the treatment to get rid of fusarium but to give the plant a little while in which to grow before fusarium starts damaging it. I will post the results on the fusarium topic under pests and diseases. |
May 23, 2011 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 2,984
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Do you have fusarium problems on Indian Stripe and Spudakee? I've not experienced that.
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