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Old May 12, 2011   #16
dice
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Fruit are not the same as Cherokee Purple. A little flatter,
a little smaller, close in flavor but not the same, and of course
more of them, as has been mentioned. I think it was originally
a bee-made cross that was grown out and selected from
multiple plants in the F-{2,3,4,...} generations until it was
stable, based on the differences from Cherokee Purple fruit.
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Old May 12, 2011   #17
travis
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I obtained seeds for Spudakee directly from Bill Malin, and have grown it for several years. I've grown it side by side with Cherokee Purple at 3 or 4 times, and can say that it is not the same animal. For me Spudakee gives more uniform size tomatoes that do not look the same in cross section, not quite as meaty, but generally the same flavor. Also, the Spudakee vine is not as compact or as dense foliaged as Cherokee Purple, but starts setting fruit earlier, sets more fruit per cluster, produces more fruit, sets fruit in higher temperatures, and endures weather conditions better than Cherokee Purple.
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Old May 13, 2011   #18
b54red
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I have kept the Spudakee to 2 stems and it now has at least 42 fruits set. Could be more but it was a quick count up each main stem. It still seems to be setting with temps in the 90s. I sure hope they taste as good as they produce and so far no sign of fusarium. Below is a picture showing some of them.
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File Type: jpg Spudakee May 13 fruit set of approx 42.jpg (310.6 KB, 102 views)
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Old May 22, 2011   #19
brengolio
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B54Red.......... where can I get the Spudakee seeds......... I'm in the south aswell....... I'm losing alot of blooms on my CP and Big Reds....... Thanks, brengolio
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Old May 22, 2011   #20
Gobig_or_Gohome_toms
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Gleckler seeds has spudakee available:
http://www.glecklerseedmen.com/Tomat...15.aspx?Page=2

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Old May 22, 2011   #21
attml
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brengolio,

Here you go

http://www.glecklerseedmen.com/Spuda...87_494147.aspx
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Old May 22, 2011   #22
brengolio
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thankyou both............. I'll try to get some for the fall garden........ again thanks
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Old May 22, 2011   #23
b54red
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I started a few Spudakee for my late summer and fall crop about a week ago. It will have to be really tough to make it during that time of the year; but I have high hopes for it.
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Old May 22, 2011   #24
JoeP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amideutch View Post
I have had the same experience with PL's compared to their RL brothers. When I grew Spudatula (Black from Tula PL) in 2009, the production from the plant was unreal and kept pumping out fruit all season long and I grew it in a 7gal container. Ami
Sorry for the thread hijack..........but I thought the bigger (container) the better when it came to growing indeterminate tomatoes in containers?

For a 7gal container, must the indeterminates be trimmed to a single leader? How many leaders (and therfore more fruit production) can you muster out of say a 7 gal, 10 gal, or 15 gal pot?

By-the-way I have been lurking on the "Container Growing" forums over the last few days trying to school myself in pot size, medium, etc. First time growing tomatoes last year and had a couple of cherries in pots. Hadn't considered large fruited til now. I have more plants (1st time from seed) than I have room in the raised bed and I do have a few large pots and a few smaller pots that I'd like to press into service....as long as it is reasonable to expect fruit. Don't want to spend $10 or more on potting mix and fish fertilizer, etc for only two Stump-of-the-World (or Teresenko 6, Red Brandywine, Brad's Black Heart, Indian Stripe, Orlov Yellow, the list goes on).

And now back to the Spudakee thread. I should post this in the other forum for container growing.
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Old May 23, 2011   #25
b54red
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JoeP, if you have seedlings ready to plant you should have no trouble making a fairly large crop from either Stump or Indian Stripe. They both put on fruit early and frequently. I can't speak to the others you mentioned as I have not grown them yet.
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Old May 23, 2011   #26
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B54red............ I got the Stump and Indian Stripe ordered............ I will start them as soon as I get the seeds in for the falll............ One question........... you mentioned that you start extra seeds so that you can pull plants out as you see fit and put another plant in it's place,.. do you put the new plant in the same spot as the infected one?
thanks, brengolio
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Old May 23, 2011   #27
dice
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[JoeP's question about container size]

Slightly off-topic, and there many, many threads that discuss
this elsewhere, but 5 gallon is a bit small for a big, indeterminate
beefsteak like Spudakee. It did well in an 18-gallon tote
converted to a self-watering container (so about 15 gallons of
container mix). I usually stick to small-fruited varieties, 4 oz
or less average fruit size, in 4 to 7 gallon buckets or nursery
containers. (I cut the bottoms out or drill 1" holes all over the
bottoms of small containers, too, so that the plant can root
into the soil under the container and get more water when
the weather is dry.)

People grow big-fruited plants in those smaller containers,
but it can require watering a couple of times a day in hot
weather, fertilizing more often because the frequent watering
washes fertilizer out faster, etc.

(Only getting 3 fruit from a big mid-season beefsteak or heart,
the weather can do that, even growing them in the ground.)
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Last edited by dice; May 24, 2011 at 02:57 PM. Reason: clarity, soil->container mix, etc
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Old May 23, 2011   #28
travis
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Tying the topics together, my experience has been that Indian Stripe will grow and produce nearly as well in a 7-gallon container as in the ground, but Spudakee will not. When I say 7-gallon container, I mean a black tree tub filled with potting mix, with a T-bar driven thru the bottom to spike it to the ground and give something to tie the vine to, and not a fancy self-watering "tainer" thing.
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Old May 23, 2011   #29
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brengolio, I replant in the same spot. If the plant died from fusarium I am now treating the spot with a dilute bleach solution to see if it helps. I did this late last summer with some of my plantings and it seemed to help; but planting at that time down here is so difficult that I would like a better test.
The last tomato bed I planted a week ago got every spot treated before a tomato was put in a couple of days later. Last year this bed had only one tomato survive without fusarium so it is one of my worst infected beds so I thought it would be a good spot to test the bleach treatment. I don't expect the treatment to get rid of fusarium but to give the plant a little while in which to grow before fusarium starts damaging it. I will post the results on the fusarium topic under pests and diseases.
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Old May 23, 2011   #30
travis
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Do you have fusarium problems on Indian Stripe and Spudakee? I've not experienced that.
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