Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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September 7, 2011 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NH, zone 4/3
Posts: 28
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Mark,
We have similar, if not generally cooler growing weather than you do. We set out 150'ish plants, starting about mid May, in Wall-o-waters, using red plastic as a mulch. Glacier is almost always first to ripe fruit, but taste is only maybe a 6 out of 10. Stupice is typically next as is the best tasting very early tomato I've found to date, and I've tried quite a few. Bloody Butcher is a close second. We've had good results with the early and productive oxheart Anna Russian - I'll be growing more of these next year as they're wonderful for sauce making. We've also had surprisingly good luck with Black Krim for being an early (only a week or two behind Stupice), bigger-sized tomato, and they're very tasty and handsome fruits. Even though we had a decent year with the big indeterminates like Mortgage Lifter (had one fruit a tad over 3 pounds), next season I'm going to grow more determinates and fewer indeterminates. The gross production of the indeterminates is below the determinates in our growing area. The season just isn't long enough, even starting early. |
September 7, 2011 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Northeast Wisconsin, Zone 5a
Posts: 1,109
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Quote:
I'm also thinking I'll try the Dwarf Project releases next year. The determinates I had on my list so far were: Bush Beefsteak - 62 days Morden Yellow - 55 days Native Sun - 65-70 days *Beaver Lodge Plum - 55 days *Beaver Lodge Slicer - 55 days Cold Set - 65 days *Manitoba - 58 days Siletz - 60-65 days *Tondina Maremmano - 70 days Sophie's Choice - 55 days *Black Sea Man - 70 days *These I grew this year. Next year I'll probably put them in 7 gallon grow bags and wheel them in and out of the garage with my peppers early in the spring. Siletz I grew last year but this year the plant was one of the ones that didn't make it. Generally happens right after I leave my extras at the community gardens. |
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September 7, 2011 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NH, zone 4/3
Posts: 28
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I was intrigued by the dwarf project also.
What kind of luck did you have with the Siletz last year? Also curious how the Beaver Lodge plum and slicer were for you. Taste and production wise. Thanks, Chris |
September 7, 2011 | #19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Northeast Wisconsin, Zone 5a
Posts: 1,109
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Quote:
The Beaver Lodge varieties were good enough I'm trying them again. Unfortunately they were not the best taken care of, but in spite of the lack of attention they put out decently flavored early fruits. They ended up still in their 4 gallon squat pots in a shaded corner of the garden, not getting fertilized and frequenly not watered. Despite the abuse they are still putting out tomatoes. |
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September 10, 2011 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: N. Texas, Zone 8A
Posts: 79
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This year I've finally accepted that we really have a short growing season, just not the same conditions. We've got a window from the beginning of April (barring frost), to early May. After that the tomatoes may not set fruit, or it'll be greatly reduced. Then we've got from around Labor Day to the end (anywhere from mid-October to early December).
I didn't have much luck with the determinate Rutgers, seems it's not for the climate here. I've got a couple of cut-down transplants, all that's left of a full seed packet planted various points in the season. The rest all died without producing a single tomato. Are determinates even viable in a short season as determjned by high temperature, not frost, I wonder?
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September 10, 2011 | #21 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Northeast Wisconsin, Zone 5a
Posts: 1,109
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Quote:
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September 11, 2011 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: N. Texas, Zone 8A
Posts: 79
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No, I've not tried them. Thanks for the tip. Sometimes here people make growing suggestions like we are in a much cooler area!
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September 11, 2011 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Northeast Wisconsin, Zone 5a
Posts: 1,109
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I hope they work for you. One other option that I thought of would be some of the old Homestead varieties originally bred by a Florida research station.
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September 20, 2011 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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I would suggest Magyar Piros Boker, 65-70 days. Good tomato and
good production on a sturdy, robust plant. Taste reminds me of Early Rouge. Pale Perfect Purple was more like 75 days than 65 days for me. Those are not exact numbers, since I do not count days, but it ripened first fruits about the same time as other cultivars that I had growing that vendors listed at "75 days". Both Gregori's Altai and County Agent are earlier (although PPP is tastier, in my personal opinion). Grub's Mystery Green, 65-70 days. Clear Pink Early, about 5-7 days earlier than Early Rouge, growing in the same bed with the same sun exposure. (Early Rouge was a bigger plant with more production, though, and Clear Pink Early had very mild flavor for me.)
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September 20, 2011 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Northeast Wisconsin, Zone 5a
Posts: 1,109
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Thanks for the feedback Dice! I'll add Magyar Piros Boker to my list of things to try.
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September 20, 2011 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,051
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Black-Indian Stripe beat all other varieties for 1st ripe full sized tomato last year.
Red-Bloody Butcher-early, pretty, and tasty One of the new dwarf varieties was very early for me also this year--Rosella Purple. Maybe it was a fluke, but Terhune and Brianna were amoung my earliest this year. I also like Break-o-day for an earlier variety. |
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