timing of topping? - Page 2

**carolyn137** · August 25, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharonRossy

Hi Guys, I was just having this conversation with myself. Looking at some of my cherries, I decided to start snipping some of the tops, which I could barely reach and pinching some if the higher suckers. Im also removing some of the lower leaves. On my heirloom, gold medal, like you edweather the foliage is very lush and thick and I have started to remove some leaves. Carolyn my question, this plant is still got fruit going and you had mentioned in another thread not to top it off yet. Should I continue this way? As you know, the fruits are huge. Nothing ripe yet, but getting close.
Sharon

Sharon, yes, we've talked about this before and I've pointed out that your weather in Montreal is about the same as mine and also shared with you the name of one person who successfully matures any variety he wants to in your area.

I never even held my local taste testings until the first week or so of September and was still saving seeds well into Sept and early Oct, depending on the weather.

So if it were me and if I had large fruits right now I sure wouldn't top it off at all, especially since you said it was close to ripening.

It's a gamble every year as to Fall weather for those of us in the northern climes, but every one of us gambles all the time if we do grow tomatoes.

kurt · August 25, 2012

Over the years growing cherrys here in S Fl what I have found out helps if you note the time bettween ripening of clusters from bottom up as plants grow.For me on different varietys I can pinpoint the end of my prime season and the demise of plant during the start of rains and the heat.We do get a "frost" maybe once in 5-10 years and that might be for a night at the most.Remembering that I live in extreme S Fl.In N Florida they do get produce killing frosts but during the season but not "end of season"announced frosts as a whole.

koshki · August 31, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by carolyn137

I can try.

THe larger life cycle of a tomato is divided into the vegetative phase with roots stems and foliage and the sexual phase of blossom formation, fruit set and fruit maturation.

Energy to accomplish all of that comes from photosynthesis and the formation of the energy compounds ATP and GTP. And most of that energy is used for the vegetative phase up to the times that fruits get near maturity.

RIpening of fruits when the maximum size has been reached involves a cascade of enzyme reactions and yes, some energy is needed but I don't think much although I've never seen a detailed analysis of energy use for that.

If water and nutrients are available they mainly go to vegetative growth. If I'm trying to ripen almost all large greenies I want to shunt energy use from vegetative growth to ripening those greenies.

By severing the feeder roots at the surface it cuts off water and nutrient sources so lessens vegtative growth at the expense of the cascade of enzyme reactions that are responsible for ripening.

Do you buy that?

Carolyn, thanks for this explanation, it makes sense to me. What effect does severing the roots have on watering? And do you have an idea how many weeks before average first frost you would do this?

**carolyn137** · August 31, 2012

Carolyn, thanks for this explanation, it makes sense to me. What effect does severing the roots have on watering? And do you have an idea how many weeks before average first frost you would do this?

****

In the last sentence of your quote of what I said I said that severing the top feeder roots would stop water and nutrients from being absorbed, or words to that effect.

And that would apply to any kind of water meaning from rain and from irrigation, meaning deliberate watering.

Every year is different and while I do know the average first killing frost date for my own area I can't go by that since a few years ago for two years in a row the first frost was on Septmeber 7 and 9 which is way earlier than my average first frost.

So it depends on what I see each year as to how many fruits not yet ripe, how many on the turn, what have the temps been and what's predicted for the next few weeks.

If I were to give a guesstimate I think I'd say 2- 3 weeks in advance of possible first frost.

August 25, 2012	#17
kurt Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl. Posts: 2,500	Over the years growing cherrys here in S Fl what I have found out helps if you note the time bettween ripening of clusters from bottom up as plants grow.For me on different varietys I can pinpoint the end of my prime season and the demise of plant during the start of rains and the heat.We do get a "frost" maybe once in 5-10 years and that might be for a night at the most.Remembering that I live in extreme S Fl.In N Florida they do get produce killing frosts but during the season but not "end of season"announced frosts as a whole. __________________ KURT

August 31, 2012	#19
carolyn137 Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a Posts: 21,169	Carolyn, thanks for this explanation, it makes sense to me. What effect does severing the roots have on watering? And do you have an idea how many weeks before average first frost you would do this? **** In the last sentence of your quote of what I said I said that severing the top feeder roots would stop water and nutrients from being absorbed, or words to that effect. And that would apply to any kind of water meaning from rain and from irrigation, meaning deliberate watering. Every year is different and while I do know the average first killing frost date for my own area I can't go by that since a few years ago for two years in a row the first frost was on Septmeber 7 and 9 which is way earlier than my average first frost. So it depends on what I see each year as to how many fruits not yet ripe, how many on the turn, what have the temps been and what's predicted for the next few weeks. If I were to give a guesstimate I think I'd say 2- 3 weeks in advance of possible first frost. __________________ Carolyn